How To Replace Front And Rear Brakes On A Kia Rondo

How To Replace Front And Rear Brakes On A Kia Rondo

In this video I will show you how to replace front and rear brakes and rotors on a 2010 Kia Rondo.I will show you how to remove the rear caliper bolts even though you can’t see them.
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Eat Me says:

realy enjoyed the way you present your self well spoken and clear .and the fact that you were real with no bullshit stood out exelent video .i wish others were more like you good job

michelgravelle says:

Hi
I did the work . My problem was , both lower guide pins . They were both jammed , very hard to loosen . That took me more time than the work itself . My thoughts are that if they were re-greased , at the last brake change ( KIA ), there would have been no problem . It would of taken the KIA mechanic , 20 seconds each , to apply grease (SAD )
Thank You for youre vid , it helped
Michel

MR HVAC says:

Is there a torque spec for the caliper pin bolt?

99 ron says:

Any advice on adjusting the foot operated parking brake to bite well? Everytime we ask a mechanic to adjust it, they always say they have but in reality they haven't. In the UK the Rondo is known as the Carens, and a foot operated "hand brake" is very unusual especially on a manual transmission car like my mums carens. We had an automatic 1991 Mercedes E class wagon with a foot operated parking brake, and that also confused our mechanics.

Troy Dzuricsko says:

Nice video! A few tips of my own while doing the brakes on my 07 Rondo. As shown in the video, use the brake grease on the stainless steel clips on which the pads rest. It will enable the clips to slide inwards as the pads wear down. You can use the old clips if you don't have new ones or if you've lost them. Take the entire mounting bracket and mount it in a vise and use a wire brush (one on a drill is easier) and buzz all of the old crusted brake dust off of the clips. They are stainless steel and usually won't rust or corrode. You can also use a nylon or steel putty knife to aid in cleaning them up… they'll shine like new. Then, remove the guide pins (just pull them straight out) and add a little grease if necessary. They should slide in and out with little effort. Check the boots on the pins for cracking. Once greased, slide the pins straight in until they bottom out which will cause the rubber boots to snap right into place. A little silicone grease on those boots will keep them soft and prevent them from cracking. On the rear, make sure your parking (emergency) brake is off before you hammer or pry the rear rotor off… otherwise you're fighting the brake. The rear rotors are actually a drum/rotor hybrid… disc on the surface, and a small drum brake on the inside for the parking brake. A C-clamp works well to bottom out the caliper piston. Make sure you loosen the master cylinder cap before C-clamping the piston. Check the brake fluid level after your done and make sure the cap is secure on the master cylinder before you drive the car. I place a container of brake fluid under the hood as a reminder to check the master cylinder before finishing up. And, as always, make sure the wheels are chocked so the car doesn't go anywhere while you're doing the job. I use a floor jack in addition to a jack stand as a backup. Place the wheel and tire you've removed in front of the jack stand under the car just in case the car moves off the stand. It will keep the car from hitting bottom should it decide to move. Also, an impact driver on the two small rotor screws worked great for me. Harbor Freight sells them for about $10. From what I've been told, those two screws are used on the assembly line to hold the rotors in place during assembly. Lastly, tighten the lug nuts to specs and don't overtighten them… you'll be glad you did the next time you need to remove them. Hope this helps. And that's about it.

Gerald De Benetti says:

I can listen to you all day Jim. You give exactly the information needed to do the job. I did the rear brakes and rotors yesterday. The mounting bracket on both sides needed quite a bit of filing before the pads would go on well and move smoothly. That was a very key step ! I was having quite a bit of trouble putting the bolt back through both sides of the suspension arm till I realized the same bolt used to knock it out could be used with hammer to tap it back in along a straight line as there was a small opening. Otherwise it was going at it at an angle . This may not have been an issue with others but since I was using a tire jack to raise the wheel there was limited visibility. Thanks for the great video again !

Jomar Lopez says:

My Kia Rondo 2008 has a vibration in the front wheels every time I touch the brakes. When I am going at a high speed the vibration is really strong. I am considering changing the rotors and brake pads to see if maybe the rotors are messed up and to see if the vibration goes away. Could there be any other reason for the vibration?

thecardoski says:

Just did this, video was a huge help. That dam bracket in the back eh….lol

Grant says:

Question! Would it be necessary to apply silicon grease to the back of the new pad as well?

1BoredLady says:

Helpful video! I replaced my rear brakes and rotors last weekend and I can hear a little dragging. Everything looks aligned properly and the rotors don't look damaged. My neighbor, who works on his own car and is a machinist, said it should stop after a while. The noise did but I still hear that same noise when we make tight turns and it intermittently comes back when going over various sized bumps. The brakes work very well, and fyi I replaced the front brakes (rotors were still good) about six months back, I am thinking I may not have put enough grease on the clips or maybe there are more places I can use grease to help mute that noise a little bit.

XijohnsoniX says:

Thank you for the in depth video. After watching your videos I feel more confident in doing my own car repair. No more going to the dealership for me

wysetech2000 says:

Another engineering marvel. I wonder which one forgot about the lower caliper bracket bolt, the suspension or the brake engineer. At least it's not like a Fiat 500 where nothing makes sense at all.  {:o)

Michael Herbert says:

Great video as always.

wyattoneable says:

Your camera angles and lighting make for easy viewing Jim.

Eddie Martinez says:

Good job jim as always.

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