This 2005 Jeep Wrangler 4.0L runs fine, but can’t pass the Emissions inspection because the MONEY LIGHT is ON.
Code “P0344 – Camshaft Position Sensor Signal” sets as soon as you start the engine.
Let’s bust out the PicoScope to verify the Cam and Crank signals.
The diagnosis takes 5 minutes…but seems like it is IMPOSSIBLE to REPAIR this Jeep!!
IVAN’S PICO WAVEFORMS:
https://drive.google.com/drive/folders/1OjTBxXECbk85I5yb07usQNOIMfz5iwhF?usp=drive_link
TOPDON Phoenix Plus:
https://www.amazon.com/dp/B091BQNR3S?linkCode=ssc&tag=onamzpineholl-20&creativeASIN=B091BQNR3S&asc_item-id=amzn1.ideas.NHZL00NIDEPF&ref_=aip_sf_list_spv_ofs_mixed_d_asin
Enjoy!
Ivan
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Hi
I have seen almost all of your videos in last 2 years. You are the best person I found here.
I have repaired at least 8 cars following your techniques.
Can you guide me how to get the wiring diagrams or repair manuals .
Thanks
Should have called Wilberts!
Yes, the scope was required to know just what is happening and thus what is wrong.
However, all the notches in the reluctor wheel are symmetrical. Also, besides the double pulse not registering correctly, the wave forms were identical. If the sensor can properly detect a single pulse AND it can properly detect a triple pulse, then there's no logical reason why it can't properly detect a double pulse. With that, even if there is no visible damage, at a glance that is, the problem has to be the reluctor wheel itself or the shaft or bearings that it rides on. That explains why 5 different brands of sensor didn't fix the problem.
IMPOSSIBLE!
Greetings, friend, I really like seeing your diagnoses. You have an excellent way of approaching the diagnosis of the problem, although it is sometimes difficult for me to understand due to my poor English.
Sad, too bad customer let go of a good engine in a Jeep. He should have looked for used OEM cam sensor…
My wife had a jeep x years ago, had ignition coil and cam sensor problems after using chinesium parts, round filed those.
The alinement on the three is off
Pretty sure you can find a threaded industrial inductive sensor that will work and fabricate your own mount.
Should have called Wilbert’s pick and pull and got a used Oem part
I know it's too late for the owner, but if it was mine, I would have checked the reluctor wheel for wobble like another person mentioned. If you couldn't see any wobble, I would check it with feeler gauges. If there was no difference, what I would have done is pull the housing and taken it to a machine shop. I would have them check the depth to the wheel and the length of the sensor. I would then have them mill about half of the difference between the two off of the mating surfaces for the sensor and the bolt. I might even try taking a file to it first to remove any corrosion. I know most aftermarket sensors are not the same as OEM, but if the sensor is not picking up just one set of teeth, moving it closer would probably fix the issue. I know some International 7.3 diesels had shim kits for their cam sensors. My 96 Ford 7.3 Powerstroke had problems with cam sensors after International quit making them and Ford sensors were no better than and even worse than most aftermarket ones. The last Ford sensor I tried made my truck run like crap. I found a Blue Streak by Standard and tried it and my truck now runs better than it has in a long time.
Rock auto shows oem in stock. Local stealership has 9 on the shelf. Auto zone has 13. Not hard to find.
I assume this is the 4.0L straight 6? Weird there's no third party Camshaft Position Sensor, since they are supposed to be the preferred engine for jeeps rather than the V6 3.6 since that destroys it's own camshafts.
There's got to be a solution to this. If not, it's an opportunity for some smart guy in his garage.
If all else fails and a used junkyard part isn’t available. Why not just attempt a new name brand Syncronizer. 190.00….I would of tried that. No loss if it doesn’t work.