What will be the cost of repairing my cheap Jaguar XF? Thanks to the wonderful team at Glenrands: https://glenrands.co.uk/ Follow me on Instagram: https://www.instagram.com/itsjoelw
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THE COST OF REPAIRING MY CHEAP JAGUAR XF…
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2500 likes on this video and i’ll remap the XF
Is replacing timing chain expensive on these , or is it enginium I'm thinking of
Anyone a jag specialist mechanic in the north west? I have a Jag and kinda want a full vehicle check without the premium of it literally being a jaaaag
Remove it god damnit christ jesus.
I owned a 09 XF 3L for 12 months and despite it being a ball ache for half of that time loved it. One immediate issue was the coolant reservoir being split around the rim causing excessive leaking and then a failing to raise gear knob. Then, a split plastic oil pipe which Jag wanted to charge a few hundred quite for. I repaired that myself with the body of a metal ink pen cut and filed down and after sealing, sealed it further with exhaust tape. Solved. Yes, problems but cool, classic and powerful enjoyment.
Bought an xf 3.0d s . Very cheap. Had a water leak from heater matrix connection (was cracked) . Managed to fix it by making my own pipe work and 90 degree copper piece . Stopped leak, fixed heater and only cost me 20 pounds. Been solid for a year so far
I've got an xf sportbrake s 3.0 v6 turbo. Love it, but it can get costly, had my abs power module go, nearly £3K JUST for the part, still i take it on the autobahn ( a brit in Germany) and easily sit at 120, it will do 155, but I won't lol
Great video! You’ll love the XF, the most car you can buy for the least money at the moment in my opinion. I’m on my second XFS, current one being a 2009. Sensational car…tyre wise I’d get the whole lifespan out of your current budget ditchfinders and then stick a set of Firestone F1 Asymmentric tyres on it-a lot of folks in the Jaaaag community love these on their XFs.
I had P-Zeros on my first XF and didn’t like them at all. Hugely expensive tyres and quite harsh/noisy. If you have the 20” rims and are finding the low profile tyres a bit of a hard ride, try dropping the pressures all round from the spec 34psi to 32. It sounds minimal but can make a lot of difference. TPMS doesn’t register low pressure until 24psi so you won’t trip a fault light.
I’ve not remapped either XF of mine, but being S spec they’ve both made 275bhp so have had more than enough power for me. Better fuel economy is always welcome though-I average between 37 and 40mpg, but have seen near 50 on long runs. Pretty good for a big, heavy and powerful car.
Gearbox service is always a good idea. Jag claimed these boxes to be “sealed for life” but I’m not sure that logic holds water once the car is out of warranty! My local Jag specialist did a box service on my last XF for £530 all in, which includes a new sump pan as the pan and filter is an integral unit. After the service I was advised to allow 1000 miles for the adaptive shifting to relearn your driving style etc and settle into its optimum function, but not sure how accurate that is.
These cars have a rather unusual 60/40 rearward brake bias to avoid dive under braking, so wear out their rear pads before the fronts-the brake pad wear sensors are notoriously finicky and if they fail and indicate pad wear prematurely, you can bypass them by cutting and joining the sender wires of the sensor. The sensor is a sacrificial unit for every pad change anyway, so you can refit a fresh sensor when the pads are genuinely in need of changing and return the car to stock spec. If you change the pads and discs yourself, be aware that you’ll need a windback kit for the rear calipers.
Servicing is dead easy-these cars are fitted with a sump scavenger pipe so you just connect a vacuum pump to it (about £50 on eBay, you’ll need a 7 litre one), remove your oil cap and suck the oil out. Filter is accessible from up top too (rear of engine, 32mm hex), complete oil and filter change can be done in about ten mins max, with no need to climb under the car or put it on ramps etc.
Oil capacity to full is 6.6L, but I fill mine to 6.2L to allow 400ml for potential fuel dilution due to failed DPF regen attempts during town driving. If you fill it to 6.6L you leave very little room for this, which can-in extreme cases-lunch the motor by way of diesel runaway. Always use 5w30 C1 low ash oil to avoid potential DPF issues. I like Millers Trident Professional, but if it’s wet, golden, slippery and the correct spec, you’re good.
There are horror stories about these cars but then there are horror stories about all cars. Generally if these engines have done over 100k most major issues-should any be on the horizon-will likely have reared their heads and been addressed already.
The big question is what the hell else is out there for circa two grand that is better than this? I’ve said it before, but it’s cognac motoring on a tap water budget. Huge VFM!
Nice buy! Regarding remapping be prepared to change the plastic intake pipe assembly every 10000 miles or so as they crack causing limp mode ! Expensive as its fiddly! A mate is trying some after market metal one's as he's had to change his three times in 50k miles. Engine pulls really well though when working. It's a missle! Good luck!
Now that I’ve bought a prefacelift XF (x250) I’m being suggested hundreds of videos about them and all the various problems they’ve had. Mines been brilliant so far with no issues but if something does go wrong I just need to remind myself that it still works out way cheaper then buying a brand new luxury car.