How To Install Honda Accord Rear Brake Rotor & Pad

How To Install Honda Accord Rear Brake Rotor & Pad

Rear Brake Rotor – Centric 120.40068 Brake Rotor (Honda Accord)
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Rear Brake Pad – Centric 105.1336 Posi-Quiet Ceramic Brake Pad (Honda Accord)
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Versachem 26080 Synthetic Caliper Grease
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In this video I will show you how to replace the rear brake rotors and pads on a 2010 Honda Accord. This same procedure will apply to many Honda vehicles.

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Comments

Jim Nicoletto says:

Thank you for clearly explaining/showing where to jack and support the vehicle.

Joey Mac says:

Jeez you needed different lubes and paste to do brakes

Christopher DeAngelis says:

Very nicely done! Thank you

Maria Balderrama says:

Who ever gave this video tutorial a thumbs down, you missed your bus!

Maria Balderrama says:

Wow! I just changed my brake pads and rotors using your video! This was awesome! I can't believe I did it! Woohoo

Gene says:

Thank you for the detailed video. Very helpful.

Banjo111 1 says:

Thank you it was very helpful

Tripp Thomas says:

Those rotor screws are NOT Phillips head screws. They are actually Japanese Industrial Standard (JIS) screws. If you use a JIS impact screw driver (found on EBay or Amazon) to remove those rotor screws, they come out easily without stripping. Most people do not know this.

Errol Pereira says:

Thank you so much! Subbed

The Martinez Variable says:

I've heard from many sources that those screws don't need to be replaced on the rotors as they are only there to hold the rotors during manufacturing. The ones on my gf's accord were frozen AND stripped. It took me HOURS and several trips to the auto parts store to get those completey useless, stupid screws off.

oldtwins na says:

Excellent clarity all around. Tired of seeing car repair videos with poor lighting, unnecessary drama, or recording at such a slow pace it becomes tiresome to watch. Your video avoids this all!

Billy Ferguson says:

Great job. A friend of mine that lives in another state sent me this video asking me was this the right way and I said yes he did a great job the only thing that I would Add is take your wire brush and clean the area where your roter slides on. Right there at the circle. And before you put your brake hardware back on put some grease on the caliber where the heart with snaps back on and put a little bit of grease on the back of your brake pads and your sliding pins!! Because if you don’t that can cause problems down the road it’s very easy to do just make it happen.

Adam Balkum says:

Will slotted rotors help avoid warping?

Jordan Morales says:

Some of the videos I’ve been seeing say you need to disconnect the E brake, but it doesn’t look like you did that. Is that optional?

Tim Vu says:

Very nice video on how to change the rear brake rotors and brake pads for the Honda Accord. I'd changed these brake pads twice on my Honda Accord V6, each time the brake pads only last about 30K. The original Honda rear brake pads were replaced at the dealer for $249.99 plus tax during the first 3 years of the car life. The reason I let the dealer did it the first time because the car is still under warranty and I don't want Honda to refuse any warranty service should the rear brake failed. The second and the third time, I replaced the pads myself, bought the brake pads from Honda for about $55 plus tax. The Honda Accord 7th Gen is notorious for eating the rear brake pads every 24-30K, specially the V6 model, because these pads are 1/2 the size of the front pads. I couple things that cause me to pause on this video: he should not have removed the caliper's pins before he cleaned the caliper and he should not force the brake fluid back into the master cylinder. He risked introducing brake dusts and road grimes from the dirty caliper into the caliper pin holes during cleaning that could cause it to malfunction or seize up. I'd take the pins out after the cleaning and put it back in immediately to reduce risk of contamination. Second, he should have crack lose the bleeder valve on the caliper and attach a small hose to let the brake fluid out to a small container as he compress the piston. This way, you don't risk pushing dirty brake fluid from the caliper and the lines back into the master cylinder. The dirty fluid could cause the master cylinder to malfunction or cause the brake fluid sensor to get stuck. Either scenarios could make your a bad commute day if it failed, not to mention the cost of having the entire brake fluid flushed to get rid of the dirty fluid in master cylinder or fixing the stuck brake fluid sensor. The brake sensor and master cylinder is one part from Honda, you have to change the entire unit and they are not cheap if the sensor cannot be reset, and that is not counting the labor cost to replace the master cylinder which is much more expensive at the dealer. If you don't fix the stuck brake sensor, you will have a Brake light in the dash and your car will fail inspection. More importantly, the car will turn off your ABS/VSA system so you are on your own.

Floriano Sarmento says:

Great video!!!

AC 67 says:

Thanks for this as well. I used your video to change my rotors and pads 3 years ago for the 1st time. What made it a horrible job was the rust. Everything else was fine. But doing it again today and the bolts for the rotor bracket just won’t budge. Tried WD-40 and freeze-off. No go. Frustrating.

dick creamer says:

Excellent video just did my rears on my 2015 Accord went very smoothly thanks for the help!

End of the Line Fishing says:

Video was great but pad with the noise clip should be facing down. You had them switched also you forgot the clips that go on top of the pads. Other than those two minor details great tutorial!

Tim Schuller says:

Great video.. Thank you!

pindiwal says:

To the point talking… perfect.

modestoma says:

Excelent very detail…

Pikasoe 69 says:

It there somewhere else I can put the jack on the pack

tjiowa01 says:

Very informative video, thanks. I replaced my rotors and pads in the front and watched another video for that job. There was no mention of taking the brake fluid reservoir cap off when I compressed the piston back into the cylinder. Did I screw something up by not doing that? I'm going to replace the back rotors and pads tomorrow and I'll be using your video for that job.

Fadi Hamid says:

Dear, thank you for the video. I have a Honda accord 2017 and I already replaced the brake pads and the rotors, but when I test it I found that the brake paddle is sinking and we already try to remove air from the brake system by bleeders, but i still face the same problem. note I didn't have the sinking problem before replacing the brake pads and the rotors. any advice? thx

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