This video is part 2of a 2-part series.
In Part 2 of this GM instrument cluster repair series, we finish fixing a GM truck/SUV cluster step-by-step and walk through. How to program the odometer of the cluster, install LEDS, diagnose common cluster problems, install new stepper motors, and the Tools you’ll need to do the job.
Whether you’re restoring your daily driver or fixing these for customers, this guide breaks everything down in a clear, easy-to-follow way.
Give away ends 11/25/25: https://docs.google.com/forms/d/e/1FAIpQLSezvxUKtqjfSIaGgv0hTysjAyUhGpVlPj3MXltZW_Bp0OJBfg/viewform?usp=preview
Part 1: https://youtu.be/C32y12WdJ7g
IPC Hammer: https://github.com/mikebb203/IPC-Hammer/releases
Github: https://github.com/garnerm91
Sponsor: https://www.amarilloclusterrepair.com/bench-tester
Tools/Supplies (Amazon)
DMM: https://amzn.to/439EjnA
Powersupply: https://amzn.to/4hBYUqu
Soldering Iron: https://amzn.to/3LgUhX3
Flux: https://amzn.to/490PbYS
Conformal Coating: https://amzn.to/4qGXoHN
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Giveaway is here: https://forms.gle/CRCA2oMrn4UhnczP6 it ends 11/25/25!
Great video. I have a problem with a 2005 GMC Yukon the speedo is inop and sometimes dead but jumps a little. The sweep test it will go 1/2 inch and then nothing. I changed the stepper motor twice, thinking chinese junk, but no difference. I also ohmed the stepper motor to board looks ok. I need help. Thanks Paul
Could you make a video on how to convert a gas cluster to a diesel?
Do you happen to know what the component (TO-252 package) does that is centered directly above C104 and DS28. I need to replace it but am having a hard time finding a replacement. Mine has the letters 3355 IR446A
So I’m having that same issue with my instrument cluster in regards to the check engine light code and she’s got some burnt bulbs etc love to send it your way
Can you add TPMS to an 03 cluster? Or do I need to get a later model:- 05/06, if that works….
Great video with lots of details and explanations.
Do you have an email for or do you answer questions direct?
Great video.
What you need to do to put custom messages on the odometer display ?
I think you covered the problem with mine in the little switch that controls the odo. Thats what mine is doing…scrolling through different languages and coming on while the truck is off. Therefore killing the battery.
I really enjoy your videos and Part 1 and 2 are both really good. I've been looking for backlight LED's on DigiKey and I'm having a hard time finding the correct ones because they have so many to choose from. Which ones are you using?
on a 2005 Chevy 1500 the board is a little different the cluster wont go into low power mode. stays at .45A . the resistor group on the left is warm and so is the voltage regulator on the right of the speedo ( its the 5 pin one). looks like someone went into the cluster before and tried to solder the resistors on the left. one of the middle ones was cracked at the joint. the stepper motors are still original. not sure what to check from here trying to learn
With this program would you be able to change where it says unknown driver to read somthing different
Hey Fixed, Found you researching adding the temp gauge in my 2000 gmc. I have a little background in electronics repair/not like you, but I think I can pull this off, but I have a question. I am looking for the correct pin out of the cluster. I got a harness from a junk yard and I have the obd2 as well, and I plan on using this to build my own (I signed up to win yours :D) but just in case I cant find a legit pinout could you link a video or head me to a real schematic, I am not sure what I find on the net these days is legit. thanks
Another awesome video! I want to do leds just like you have done in the video but I hear that it could last a month to a year before they start flickering or dying. I read that it could be from the vehicles voltage spikes. Do you know if / what kind of voltage regulator or zener diode could fix that issue? Maybe place one on each light pad?
Very nice as usual. Could you point me in the direction of a button to replace the selector button. I get the occasional language scroll? Thank you.
You are very kind for showing us your technique, and to discuss the ins and outs of your approach. If I ever need mine rebuilt, I'll just pay you to do it.
Hotspot take a few LED's, and solder thin jumper wires to them, and use a drop of UV resin to hold them in the right place to get rid of the spot, and not foul anything. Then wire in series with the nearest backlight, as you can put 2 in series without actually getting any noticeable drop in brightness with the same resistor value, as the lower current also gets the LED into a slightly more efficient light output point. Wires held down with a few drops of UV glue, which will last forever.
I did a similar thing for a Ford cluster, got tired of the yellow light, as the green silicone sleeve had gone brittle and faded. So went and got a pack of 3mm LED's, and soldered them together in strings of 4, so the total drop was around 9V. some 33R 0.25W resistors in series with each group of 4, and some thin single core wire, old fixed phone wire that I had around, and they were used in groups around each of the displays, going to the old light mountings. Held down with rubber cement, and then the display cover went back on. perfect even lighting, and no more hot spots, though the display cover still had some yellowed areas from where the old 1W incandescent lamps had been.
A lot of the red warning lights were replaced with 5mm hyperbright red LED units, using the existing holder base to solder the LED to, and cutting the trace to get the space to put the 560r current limiting resistor in. Took the LED tops and sanded them with some 220 grit paper, to diffuse the hard light spot. These days would have gone for 5mm flat top units instead, but you use what you can get. got rid of a lot of the flickering lights and unreliable displays, though the alternator lamp also had a 150R 0.5W resistor soldered across the original traces, to get the current high enough to bootstrap the alternator. Yes a little bit of over running the resistor, but for what is around 10s max, well worth not having to find space for a 1W unit, and i had a lot of the 150r 0.5W resistors to hand.
Jumper wires the best hold down methos now is cheap UV cure resins, which just need a little UV light to cure them. now that 3C printers are common the resin is available in small quantities for a low price, and it only needs a small amount per wire. Either use an old nail varnish bottle, which you keep in a small opaque box to keep it from being polymerised by ambient light, or use old dropper bottles instead. I keep my thermal paste in the nail varnish bottles, along with another bottle with silicone oil, which was also added to the paste in the jar, to make it easy to spread, as you only need a tiny dab, and the added oil makes it spread easily to provide full cover.
Another awesome video! Thanks for all the information over the years. Just a couple quick questions. Do you have a part number for the button mentioned 18:05? What is the forward voltage for the MIL lights and turn signals? Would it be possible to make these clusters do a startup gauge sweep like on the C5 Corvette clusters?
I saw on eBay there is a company that sells just the transmission temp overlay. You cut a section out of the factory overlay and and stick the trans temp overlay on top