Part number for cable: 84634113 $65.99
Link to part:
https://www.oreillyauto.com/detail/c/acdelco/battery—accessories/battery-cable/97f343b1aaa1/acdelco-battery-cable/acd0/84634113/v/a/129845/automotive-truck-2015-chevrolet-silverado-1500?pos=2
How to Replace 2014-2018 GM truck ground cable due to Electrical issues (no crank, stabilitrak, etc)
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20142018, cable, Crank, Electrical, ground, issues, replace, StabiliTrak, truck
- Categories: GM
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Sorry everyone I have been away for awhile. Looks like we have a lot of great feedback and information in the comments so make sure to take a look at that if you are experiencing these weird electrical issues! As for the repair on my moms Yukon, we still have not experienced any of the crazy problems that we had before.
Hello, I need some help, and I promise I will listen to your opinions. I own a 2017 Chevy Tahoe (a former PPV model). My scanner indicated a misfire in Cylinder 2. I proceeded to replace the spark plugs, spark plug wire, and ignition coil, but the misfire persists. Upon checking the scanner again, I noticed several other codes as well, including U0100:00 (Lost Communication with Engine Control Module), U0401:71 (Invalid Data Received From Engine/Powertrain Control Module), U0422:71 (Invalid Data Received From Body Control Module), P0202:00 (Cylinder 2 Injector Control Circuit), and P0300:00 (Engine Misfire Detected). Some videos I’ve watched suggest checking the chassis ground connections, while others suggest that I need to reprogram the ECM/PCM. One other thing: I have already checked the fuel injectors, and they are all in good working order (they all have the same resistance). I also noticed that Cylinder 2 is not receiving any electrical current; I’ve ruled out the wiring harness as the culprit, as it appears to be in good condition. In fact, the specific wire responsible for delivering power to that injector harness—the one intended to feed Cylinder 2—is itself not receiving any current. I honestly have no idea what could be going on. Thanks in advance; I will read every single suggestion! THANK YOU!!!!
Did you end up seeing any bad spot in the cable?
My negative wire was super hot.
How the heck where yall able to reach that 13mm I can’t access at all
2014 Silverado would die at slow speed. Cleaned the battery ground on passenger side and still having the same problem. ??
Will this fix a power steering issue? Back in December, I changed my rack opinion because my power steering went in my 2015 Chevy Tahoe. Just the other day my power steering went again. So now I’m thinking it has to do with the ground wires. Can anyone lmk please and thank you.
How do you know if the grounds are bad?
I noticed the problem on mine when I tried to weld a broken bolt on the block and found that the welder wouldnt work with the welders ground clamp on the chassis….. the chassis ground and the engine ground connect at the battery negative lug so there was clearly a bad connection somewhere in there.
The little connector at 3:00 in this video – mine won't come off on a 2014 4.3L Silverado. Anything I'm missing? Won't pull off for the life of me even with some pliers on it
I wanted to see how you removed the one behind the motor
Thank you for posting this video as I used it as a resource to change my own negative cable.
2015 Escalade ESV here. Remove the passenger tire. Remove the wheel well guards or enough screws to peel the guard back to be in front of the rotors. You will probably need to remove the brake sensor from the frame by lifting the pegs out of the hole. You may want to remove the other insulated wrapped wire next to the brake lines. Now you should be able to access the bolt. You may want to squirt it with PB blaster or some other lubricant. You may also want to have a pivot head for your socket. I used a 24 inch 3/8 extension to reach it.
Did that fix all the messages/ warnings?
My 2015 chevy silverado too. I got a new battery and it works well for the moment. And once it wouldnt start for a bit.
Had all those issues on my 2016 Yukon on a daily basis for 2 -3 months ….removed and cleaned all battery and main fuse connectors at battery and no more issues going on 3 weeks
Warning: These exact symptoms can just as easily caused by the positive cables and connectors, so be sure to locate the failed cable/connection before throwing parts at it. My truck had the same symptoms: jerking steering, Stabilatrack message, dash would go black, radio loses the station, clock loses time, and the truck would sometimes go completely dead in the driveway overnight. When I touched the negative battery cable, there was a small pop sound at the top of the battery and the truck sprang to life. I repeated this several times. It's got to be the cable, right? Nope, it did the same thing after I replaced the negative cable. It ended up being the blue connector that plugs into the distribution block on top of the battery. I believe that the fingers on the contacts had lost their "sproing" over time. To fix it, I pushed the terminals out of the blue connector, tweaked the contacts to give them more force. Then I cleaned and tightened all of the cables tied to the lugs in the ditribution block. My problems are 100% gone. I should have diagnose the problems to the root cause before unleashing the parts cannon. $85 and 2 hours wasted on a battery cable.
Not really sure what he moved, or took out, but that bolt next to the starter is not that fucking easy to see. You need to make people aware of this. It's a bitch to get to and take off unless you have other things disconnected. This comment is for everybody who thinks it's going to be as easy as what he just showed you.
How the heck do you get to the bolt by the starter?!?! I can’t get to it from under the starter and I removed the fender and it’s super far to get to, even with an extension
Did you have to replace the positive terminal
How did you get the bolt off for the wire above the starter?? I can not get mine to break loose
Dang!!! Thanks for posting this!
You put dealer cable or Orreily
We just bought a 2018 GMC Yukon XL and occasionally it won’t start. No instrument lights or interior or exterior lights will come on and the key fob won’t do anything. I disconnect the negative cable to the battery and wait about a minute to reconnect it, then everything works again. We are not sure why we are having this issue. Anyone have any ideas?