3 body shops told me they wouldn’t fix my truck, so I’m fixing it myself. But I’ve never done body work before… How bad could it be? Lol.
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Well, I learned some things on this one, that's for sure! Body work is not easy! But I still think it's ridiculous that 3 body shops turned me away. The rust aspect really wasn't that bad. Had this damage been caused by a collision it still would have required multiple panels to be replaced. Thanks for watching folks, have an awesome weekend, and we will see you next week!
Helpful video. But some judicious edits would have cut length of video in half. Do we need to watch all your welds?
Great video. I'm putting new patch panels on my 2008 ram . Outer panels are readily available,but the inner panels require more skill to create and replace.
i think they should salt the roads more in other states because it makes my rigs worth a lot more like my 68 chevy that still has factory paint but is rust free same with my 79 4×4 cheyenne full option truck or my 70 high boy with dana 60/80 lockers all 3 have factory paint and rust free. i have a bunch of square body chevy's that have no rust my not run but i have nothing in them. my 3 pickups i have on the road i have less then 3,000 in all of them. even my friend can't believe that is all i have in them. just to give a idea the 68 has a stroke 454 with a 02xx trans i rebuilt the dash and it looks better then it did new with factory tach has leather heated seats out of a land rover new tail gate because it did not come with one still have the fresh rebuilt 327 that came with it matching # and the stock 400 turbo got it for 1000 bucks because they thought the cam was flat but it was just the firing order has about 600 hp give or take runs very good also have a tunnel ram for it just don't want to cut the perfect hood on it. my next project is a 79 rs z28 t top got 2 other z28's for it a stroke 454 with a t 10 4 speed or a 02xx trans one car has new custom interior got all 3 for free and all are rust free. i can make the t top with a perfect body with no dings in it got all the parts for free even a fly wheel and a vett clutch setup in boxes i mean all for free. the 79 4×4 has under 35,000 miles on it in perfect factory condition got it for free just needed a new fuel pump and carb cleaned from sitting to long in a shop even the heat riser works on the 400 sbc came with all the keys with matching tool box in back all have clean titles
When I did some apprentice auto and body work, we used filler (glazing) putty over the bondo as the last step before priming: the idea was to get a good smooth and flat surface that you can’t get with bondo. The glazing stuff was red. It dried pretty hard. It was meant to go on only in very thin layers, like 1/16” or less, then get shaped, and finally finish with fine sanding to blend. I’ll never forget how well the glazing putty could fix what bondo just couldn’t— like surface pocks, dimples, roughness, fine contours, corners and edges. After glazing it very seldom needed filler-primer, usually going straight to sanding-primer (thinner) or straight to paint-primer (thinnest of the three primers he used in that shop.)
OTOH, it was a pain when you thought you were done and primer ready but had to go back and glaze it — he was shooting for high-end repairs in the late ‘70s. We did a lot of Mercs, a Bimmers, Lotuses, a few Lambos and Ferraris, a range of Porsches from low end models to restorations. For fun he had a stable of old fin-body Mercs (1950’s) he was restoring, and brought a Rolls Royce a few times, with one he did in phases until the money ran out, and it left the shop on a teailer with most of the body and interior in boxes…that was a sad day.
Damn good fit 12:10
You did a fantastic job. I am full of admiration. (Take no notice when they point and laugh.)
Thanks for showing the steps and different layers! Starting this project once I'm able to get back to work!
But it did come out good just a couple tips i lesrned recently
No offense but u didnt line up the cab corner it was too far forward a blind man could see it you body guys need to learn how to use a skillsaw get the mini 4inch dewalt with the metal cutting blade instead of a ciut off wheel then a corldess dewalt multi tool where you cant get in the corners clamp on your piece rocker wheel arch whatever patch your doing it will speed up the process and come out phenominal compared to a primitive cutting wheel
You might have missed your calling. Turned out great
Ya done real good!!!
Next time, if there is a next time all your vertical welds down weld them top to bottom it will run smooth and cooler so you don't blow through. Go by your chart and lower the heat even more so when welding thin steel. On the gap take a piece of welding wire and layit in the gap to help bridge the gap or other piece of metal. You should have used fiberglass it will seal the steel better and last long. Then use the bondo for the finish. You should have used a epoxy primer or a self-etching primer first. WET sand it what you have more oops spots then to worry about wet sanding. You want it perfect have someone do it that cares enough to ask someone how to go about it and what materials to use. Like fiberglass, epoxy primer or a self-etching primer, seam sealer. Doesn't look to bad all done….. FOR A FARM TRUCK. LOL
You did a really nice job obviously you are very patient. I've seen work by "professional" body shops that is much worse. Things like using bondo over spray foam which doesn't last at all.
A grinder and paint makes me the welder I ain’t
Great job John!
You’re a patient man.
Thx
S
I think you did an awesome job.
i absolutely love the fact that (in your own words) you didnt really know what to do as youve neve done it before, but dont get "paralysis by analysis", lol…. ill remember that next time im having trouble commiting to something crazy like tubbing a pros treeter or converting a longbed to shortbed–sometimes you just gotta jump……. thank you for the inspiration sir!
You are a body shop guy now 😉
Should have used fluid film
IDK why Jon ALWAYS says he's not a good welder?
Seeing him work with those 16 and 18 gauge panels WITHOUT blowing them out.
OUT STANDING!
Sure it's not concourse quality job, but It's a Class A Farm quality job
They rust from the inside out, and it’s always more extensive than it looks.
It's so good to see using the rust converter. Game changer. My question is would a zink magnet help to stop rust, like a swimming pool. I put one on the bottom of steel drums. Haven't checked them
So I used to be a high-end wood finisher for steinways and I would fill things with Bondo a lot. If you want a lesson your sanding mix up smaller batches and apply them in thinner layers in addition while it's still wet or just starting to set up you can cut it down with a razor blade. Then wait till it hardens then sand it'll save you a ton of work trying to sand down a big hump the way most people sort of slap it on. And after you do send you can always go back and apply a really thin layer to fill in all the little pinholes so to speak.
edit last: 47:06 i give you 9/10 on that corner repair. And that 9 is a solid big foundation 9. I've seen worse, much worse from supposed pros. Bodywork is one of the more challenging affairs one can tackle in metal work. You have to account for a few things at the same time, you need to really know your welder, can't just jump in nose first, ain't for someone who ain't committed with capital C.
12:07 when you're panelling, a good way to do it without making a mess of things is to cut undersized or oversized (from your new metal stock). You then place it over your patch area, tack it in place over the metal (three west, north and east tacks should suffice at this stage), then use the grinder to cut through BOTH metal at the same time. You then press the metal into the same flat plane with a screwdriver and tack it. Once you've done that, you repeat the process all the way around cutting and tacking in plane. Once you're done, you have the perfect gap (1 mm slit disk) to weld and the metal is perfectly calibrated to your hole, because you've cut both at the same time.
6:21 i wouldn't bother with drilling if you're discarding material. Grind it off. A trick to know how deep to go is to go to good known material and grid a hole into and calibrate your eye to figure out what the wheel width needs to be on the spot weld. Also, a good knife is good to separate the metals without bending the good metal under it.
0:30 now why did you go open the door for? It was looking okay before that. That's the drinker side, nobody cares about the drinker side.