Acura MDX Front Sway Bar End Link Replacement (in 6 minutes)

Acura MDX Front Sway Bar End Link Replacement (in 6 minutes)

The SUV in this video is a 2012 Acura MDX, but the same basic procedure would apply to many cars. A few that use the identical part are:

ACURA MDX (2001-2013)
ACURA ZDX (2010-2013)
HONDA ODYSSEY (1999-2004)
HONDA PILOT (2003-2015)

Key Years:
2001 2002 2003 2004 205 2006 2007 2008 2009 2010 2011 2012 2013 2014 2015

Let me know how it goes – I’d love to hear your success (or failures!) and I’m happy to answer questions. Feel free to comment below. I read them all and reply to what I can.

I used these:
https://www.rockauto.com/en/moreinfo.php?pk=531646&cc=1502806&jsn=10864

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Disclaimer:
Due to factors beyond the control of Tall Family Films, I don’t make any guarantees against improper use or unauthorized modifications of this information. Tall Family Films assumes no liability for property damage or injury incurred as a result of any of the information contained in this video. Use this information at your own risk. Tall Family Films recommends safe practices when working on vehicles and or with tools seen or implied in this video. Due to factors beyond the control of Tall Family Films, no information contained in this video shall create any expressed or implied warranty or guarantee of any particular result. Any injury, damage, or loss that may result from improper use of these tools, equipment, or from the information contained in this video is the sole responsibility of the user and not Tall Family Films.

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Comments

@pageman3910 says:

Thank you for including the tips for stubborn nuts. Didn't realize there is an allan key socket!

@TLEE68 says:

5th way I used is concentrated mini butane torch lighter (around $20-30) on the nut (applied less than 5 min) to heat up rusted nut (pb blaster with wire brush not strong enough in my situation to loosen up the rusted nut off). The backside ball stud disk was spinning (despite using locking vice clamp to hold in place with impact driver method failed to remove). The mini torch melted the plastic that was holding the ball in place, popped right off for both the front nut and the back link bar. Heat the nut, not the backside plastic. The heat on nut will melt the moulded plastic socket on the backside. Just be careful not to melt other surrounding components. Hope this helps.

@sebestiensoliz8831 says:

Do I need to get an alignment after replacing these Front Sway Bar End Links. 2 on each side, right?

@mrc79 says:

Alignment required after?

@BUSTER.BRATAMUS says:

any videos for a 2017 RDX and its links?

@SomeWhereByMarzzz says:

I have the ball and the nut stuck.

@carbonoxx says:

the nuts doesnt come with nylon thread? is that normal or i need to use blue loctite?

@al_adin says:

Great vid thanks

@Hardwareman1343 says:

I have a clunky nose (mostly on the driver’s front) when hitting bumps. Would a bad sway bar link cause the clunk? This morning in search of the noise I discovered that the boot on the bottom is torn.

@Hoster987 says:

Nice! Will be doing the same when the weather gets warmer as my wife's 14 MDX has developed some clunking noise. By the way, do we care about the torque for the bolts or "just make it tight"?

@SammyChon says:

Yeah easy if they aren't rusted. If they are get a map blowtorch. Off in 2 minutes after heating

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