Volvo V70 2010 Rear Spring Replacement

Volvo V70 2010 Rear Spring Replacement

DIY video on replacing rear springs on a 2010 Volvo V70 3.2. Same job applies to Ford Mondeo MK4. Parts replaced included both springs, top mount, top and bottom rubber mounts. Level of difficulty on a scale of 1-10, maybe a 3. Total time required if doing two springs, roughly 90min. No coil compressors required. You may need some ratchet straps to hold the springs in position as the control arms gets compressed.



arthur1920 says:

Hey, thanks for this video. You inspired me to do this on my XC70 , 2011, 4wd. The hardest part was getting the bolt back into the A Arm. I don't know where you got the torque figure for that? Mine was in the car (original) much less tight than a lug nut. I estimate about 45 lbs. Be careful with the bolts and nuts they are proprietary design and you will have to go to Volvo if you mess any up. I did not. The top hat of the spring was a little bit rusty, had I known, at 54K mi, I would have ordered one. Factory rate is 1 1/2 hours per side at $140 per hour. Once the car was up on stands it took about an hr, taking all my time to do one side, was doing laundry in the house at same time too, and I have degenerative joint disease in my hands, stage 3. So you young uns ought to breeze through this. I chose to jack up on the member where you put your stands and set the stands under the drip rails. Doesn't look like you can do this, but you can.

The reason the a arm nut is welded on is because there is no room for access from the front side. This is also why it's a pain to line up the arm and bushing to replace the long bolt- you can't put a line up tool in from the front and feed the bolt through from the back. Put a little grease on the a arm bushing sides, just a tiny touch, to make it easier to slide it around for line up.

I used chalk to draw a line up line from the hat down to the lower perch just in case I forgot how it was in there. The spring looks identical top and bottom. How ever in order to put the ends back in the same orientation in the mounts, I found it workable to take it out again and turn it upside down. Go figure.

I had to call the Volvo parts man to get the right spring via the Vin # because the online catalog had 2 choices and no way to figure out which was correct.

An extra pair of hands to wiggle the arm/bushing location would have cut time down to 1/2 hr per side.

Ok, everyone. Get out there and do it because apparently Volvos break these springs a lot.

Thanks again.

Little Eddie says:

Thanks, just helped my friend do his 2011 v60xc,same set up, your video was a big help. Again Thank You Ed

arthur1920 says:

it's absolutely disgusting that volvo puts springs made of crap in their expensive cars. Volvo springs break! I am discovering it i a known issue for at least 15 years. You mean to tell me they couldn't re speck the springs not to break in all that time? First car I ever had to break a coil. And my wife's car has 54K gentle mi on it. Yeah an actual little old lady ddriver. HAH and they say the XC is capable of off road ha ha. The most challenging thing my car has done is go to the supermarket. I am disgusted with you Volvo.

arthur1920 says:

Nice. Do you think it's the same procedure for a 2011 XC70 4 wd? Would have liked to see how you managed torquing the lower a arm bolt with the wheel in the way. ?

Sergejs Pleiko-Iziks says:

Ты молодец!

AwakeDude911 says:

the air gun you need is a IR 2135 ti model…they work awesome !! them cheap air guns don't work …breaker bar with an air gun that's how you know ur air gun is JUNK !!! the 2135 ti the bolt come out !!!!

Keiko FX Designs says:

Not a very hard job to do. Thanx man I really appreciate you putting a know how spring replacement.

Daria Luin says:

What was the reason for the replacement? I'm hearing some squeaky noise from the rear on the passenger side. I suspect it's either the shock absorber support plate or the spring spacers..

Bigtime McAlpine says:

One thing I forgot to mention in the video, it’s a good idea to put anti-seize paste on both lower control arm bolts on the non-threaded portion. This will make it easy for the next poor sucker who has to do the job.

Peppermint says:

Good job. Good to mention that on many cars the nut is welded to the control arm so always go on the bolt head side. I didn't know this on a Honda Civic and I almost bent the car in two by praying on the welded nut – the only thing that gave up was my lower back

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