Car Fix DIY Videos

How to replace the sway bar links on a Volvo C30 and the same procedure also applies to the S40, V50, and C70 models of the same generation. This is a 2007 model. These cars take two types of sway bar links, be sure to look under your car before ordering the parts. Typically worn sway bar links will clunk when cornering or going over bumps and you may noticed more body roll. As a visual inspection, you’ll be able to see a space between the sway bar and rubber bushings. This means the bushings are compressed and are no longer able to firmly hold onto the sway bar, creating excessive movement. #volvo #volvoc30 #volvos40

AutoPartsWay (CA): https://www.autopartsway.ca/partdetails.cfm?w0133-1952709/vco
AutoPartsWay (US): https://www.autopartsway.com/partdetails.cfm?w0133-1952709/vco

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Tools/Supplies Needed:
-15mm wrench
-17mm wrench
-3/8″ drive ratchet
-17mm socket
-16mm socket

Procedure:
Start by safely elevating the rear of the vehicle, this can be easily done by simply driving onto ramps. The vehicle does need to be level from side to side so the sway bar isn’t twisting and there isn’t any tension. These cars take two types of sway bar links, be sure to look under your car before ordering the parts.

To remove the only links, use a 15mm wrench on the top to hold the nut. Then use a 16mm socket with 3/8” drive ratchet to loosen and remove the bolt on the bottom. I’ll show you the link once it’s out in a moment. There is a center bolt which holds everything together.

Finally remove the bolt and outer bushings. I can’t remove the center bushings just yet and there is light tension, this will be removed once I disconnect the other side.

Remove the other side using the same process. If you find the bolt in binding, then tighten and loosen again.

And finally remove the whole assembly completely. You’ll need to pull the sway bar down slightly by hand to remove the center bushing.

For installation, install the center bushing between the sway bar and control arm. You’ll need to make sure the bushings are aligned with the holes.

Then install the center bolt.

And finally the top bushing with the nut. The new sway bar link uses 17mm for both the bolt and nut. If you are having a slight issue starting the nut, you can bush the sway bar up by hand or maybe even use the assistance of a c clamp. I only threaded the nut on so the threads from the bolt were barely flush with the outer edge.

Move onto the other side, removing the old center bushing.

Install the new center bushing.

Install the bolt and then the top bushing with nut. These use a nyloc nut, meaning there’s a nylon insert which prevents the nut from loosening. So there is no need for a thread locker.

You may need to go back and forth tightening up the links to ensure everything is seated correctly between the two. From what I’ve been able to find, the factory torque specifications are 25 NM or 18ft lbs. Typically what I do is tighten each sway bar bushings until they just start to compress. Too tight and you’ll either break then or they’ll prematurely fail.

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