How to Replace the Rear Brakes on a Volvo C30 S40 V50 C70

How to Replace the Rear Brakes on a Volvo C30 S40 V50 C70

Video tutorial on how to replace the rear brakes on a Volvo C30, this tutorial includes both the replace of the pads and rotors. A similar procedure can also be used on the Volvo S40, V50, and C70 models. In order to produce this video, Bosch has been kind enough to provide me with the parts required for this replacement.

OTC Caliper Kit: https://www.otctools.com/products/disc-brake-caliper-tool-kit

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Tools/Supplies Needed:
-7mm allen socket
-13mm socket
-3/8″ and 1/2″ drive ratchet
-thread locker
-wire brush
-new pads and rotors
-standard screwdriver
-brake cleaner
-jack and jack stand
-brake caliper piston tool
-hammer

Procedure:
Being that we are working on the rear brakes, we can’t apply the parking brake. This is a manual, make sure the car is in gear and as an added safety caulk the front wheels.

Start by safely elevating one side of the car.

And then remove the wheel.

Place a jack stand under the subframe as a safety.

Remove the spring clip on the caliper. Use a standard screwdriver to pry it from its location, pliers may also help too.

Using the standard screwdriver again, remove the caps for the caliper pins.

Using a 7mm allen socket with a 1/2” drive ratchet, remove the caliper pins, there are two in total.

Ensure those pins aren’t catching on the carrier and then remove the caliper. Tie the caliper up using a bungee cord so there’s no excessive strain on the rubber flex line.

Remove the brake pads from the carrier. They simply just sit in place.

To remove the carrier, it’s held on with two 13mm bolts. Here you’ll need a 3/8” ratchet instead to clear the hub carrier.

Using brake cleaner, wash away brake dust on the dust shield. Inspect the condition of the dust shield and replace it if needed. This is also a great time to inspect the condition of the rear wheel bearings too.

Wash the caliper using a brake cleaner.

Crack the cap on the master cylinder help relieve pressure from compressing the pistons.

These cars have the parking brake mechanism built into the caliper, therefore you’ll need a special tool to push back the pistons instead of just compressing the piston. Bosch has supplied me with their OTC disc brake caliper tool to do this. The piston has two holes, this kit has adapters which lock into those holes, the piston is rotated and you’ll need to compress the piston at the same time.

Using a wire brush, clean up the carrier. The brake pads should sit freely on this, no binding whatsoever. Compared the old and new rotors to ensure they are the same.

A wire brush may be needed to clean the hub to reduce the chance of runout when the rotor is installed, this one is in good condition so there’s no need for that. A lug nut can be used to help hold the rotor into place.

If you leave any oil residue on the rotors, clean them off using brake cleaner. Clean the carrier bolts using a wire brush. Apply a medium grade thread locker. Install the carrier with bolts. The torque specifications for the 13mm are 52 ft-lbs or 70 nm.

Install the out pad, these pads should fit freely into place. For the inner pad, a new spring clip is supplied and will need to be installed on the new pad. It wedges over a thin portion on the pad backer. Then install it into place.

Install the caliper into place, I have also removed the pins as they will be cleaned and have new lubricant applied. Clean the pins using brake cleaner and even a wire brush.

Apply medium grade thread locker to the threads. Apply a light layer of the supplied brake grease to the pins. Install the pins and tighten. The torque specifications for the caliper pins are 26 ft-lbs or 35nm. Install the plastic caps.

Install the new supplied spring retaining clip on the caliper. I found it’s easiest to install it partially into the one hole first, partially into the other and then pull it under the carrier before it’s fully seated. Light taps with a small hammer can help it to place. Reinstall the wheel. The torque specifications for the lug nuts is 80 ft-lbs or 108nm.Now moving onto the opposite side.

Thank you to all those who watch my videos and support my content. Don’t forget to subscribe to my channel for future tutorial videos and like my video if you found it helpful. New videos are always being uploaded every week!

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Comments

Eric B says:

Hey, great vid.. I appreciate it. I did everything as instructed. My only question is, when depressing the piston – i had a tool, and was able to make it turn and compress until it became pretty easy to turn and seemed to be down. but it never stopped turning.. did i give up too soon? I'm hearing the same rubbing i was hearing before i replaced the rotor that i had attributed to a warped rotor (which i still believe it was). Is it possible that the backing plate is bent and rubbing? I appreciate your help in advance..

Patriotdad03 Molon labe says:

Would using c clamp work to compress the caliper?

orfeous says:

My rear ATE brake discs came with two screws and an extra hole. Whats are these for? My Volvo OEM doesnt have that.
I know that the Volvo discs are made by ATE so they are the same brand.

Steve Forbes says:

Well done. I wish all how-to videos were like this

Lincoln Hawk says:

Tool at 2:23 is cool!

Ramcy Van amersfoort says:

do i need to bleed the brakes after this?
these brakes also fit the v40 hatcback

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