Video tutorial on how to replace the positive crankcase ventilation, or for short pcv diaphragm on your Volvo T5 engine. The car I’m working with is a 2007 Volvo C30 T5, the T5 engine depending on the model does come with a couple different styles of PCV systems. This engine has the heated PCV system and it comes as an assembly with the oil filter housing which is about $300 from the dealer. The other style is basically a plastic box which includes an oil trap instead and is about a quarter of the price. There is only one source on Ebay who makes a new diaphragm, everyone else only sells a filter housing replacement. The new diaphragm was about $10 and the fastest shipping method was about $50 to Canada.
Eventually with heat and age, the rubber diaphragm will crack and break. When this happens, the car will make a howling sounds, almost as if you have a faulty idler pulley bearing. However the sound only happens at idle. When this happens, you can drive the vehicle but not for long. It’ll cause excessive vacuum in the engine, if driving the vehicle for an extended period of time, it will cause damage to your camshaft and crankshaft seals. Another way to tell if the diaphragm has failed is by pulling up the dipstick or open the oil fill cap in the valve cover. You’ll notice a strong vacuum. When those areas are open, the sound will also disappear. I have also found the sound is much quieter when the engine is colder vs when it’s up to operating temperature. The turbo will also not stay in boost and if driven long enough, a check engine light will be triggered which maybe a P2187 which means the engine is running lean at idle.
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Tools/Supplies Needed:
-standard screwdriver
-OBD2 code reader
-new diaphragm
-socket set with ratchet
-flashlight
Procedure:
-ensure your engine is cold when working on it
-start by removing the air duct going to the air box by removing the two 8mm bolts on the radiator support
-pull up the first portion of the duct to unclip it and then remove the lower portion
-there is another round cap that needs to be removed
-this is removing by using a small pry tool or a standard screwdriver can also work, either push the tool between the cap and the plastic edging or pull the cap up by the little notch in the plastic edging
-once that cap is popped up, you can work it around to unclip it from the backside
-the diaphragm will most likely come out with the cap and there will be a spring left inside the assembly
-then remove the spring
-clean the cap and inside of the pcv valve area to remove any oil residue or build up
-pull the diaphragm from the cap and now you can see the split which was causing the issues
-ensure the spring is clean before reinstalling
-install the spring
-the position of the new diaphragm, the black plastic ring faces down and the spring sits inside the recessed area
-getting this back together can be quite tricky
-considering it’s such a tight space with minimal room to work and you can’t get a clear view
-you may need to feel around to some extent, from what I’ve found, install the spring and diaphragm together, the spring must be compressed and then release it when it’s above the hole on it’s alignment tab
-you can push the diaphragm down with a long screwdriver from the top between the intake runners, then slowly work the cap into place
-try to snap the cap on the rear first, then finish up with the wrong
-the long screwdriver can be used for added leverage to pop the cap down as it’s a tight connection
-starting the engine to verify the repair is successful
-as a final step, the check engine light should be cleared
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Thank You, great savings.
This only took me 1/2 hour! A few hints: You can just yank the airbox up (pretty hard) and gain an inch or two I just loosened the hose clamp to the air-intake pipe. No need to remove any other screws. Also, I sharpened an old screwdriver to get it in between the seam (which is hard to see), then twisted it to start removing the cap. Last, make sure the cap is back down tight! I thought it was tight but then used a wooden handle of a hammer, prying against the boss where the airbox was attached, and it went down further. I did it in a few spots on top of the cap.
You can now get the part from IPD
This is awesome. In my case, besides the howling and excessive vacuum, I have engine surging. Will this fix that that too, or should I replace the how PVC/oil filter housing. Also, can someone link me to the part? I can't find it.
Hi, hopefully you will see this. I am looking at buying an 09 T5. The one I'm looking at is in good condition but PCV needs replacing. It would be a 2 hour drive to get the car home. Should I look at getting it replaced as I don't want to damage it by driving it home and then replacing it?
Besides the noise, what other symptoms will this cause?
Thanks mate, I have one of these on order. your tutorial helps a lot.
I would like to thank you 4DIYers
for this video and the link. It cost me $25 with regular shipping and took just over a week to get here. The dealer was telling us the whole unit needed to be replaces at a cost in excess of $600. This video, $25, and Vanos's photos saved me a small fortune. THANK YOU for what you do 4DIYers
and I have to thank Vanos-BMW.com too for supplying the part. Outstanding!
I managed to change out the diaphragms and I think it's important for others to know that there may not be a notch on the cap and possibly more importantly, I feel a need to point out the seem between the cap and the housing is virtually invisible. Vanos sends you information for links and photos to help one remove/ install the the diaphragm and in their photos, one can see the sliver of a gap between the cover and the housing. Pry in between that sliver to remove the cap. Getting it back on was a snap…LOL
Is this trick for real ? Have the same problem on -06 V50 T5 (260 tkm´s odometer reding) and carage mechanic just told me the housing will cost 300 € + misc. parts + labour ! Mechanical part sounds really DIY. I will let them flush my oil channels with "wash oil" due to the fact that every place has this black mud/sand on it. That will cost only like 300 €. Then fill it with Castrol 5W30 fully syn..
Thanks for this. I was able to order the part directly from vanos-bmw in Russia for $15, with $10 shipping. The drawback is that it takes a month to arrive. Worked on my 2012 S60. A question, when I popped the cap, it was very grungy inside. Is this something I should be concerned about?
Amazing! Same diaphragm worked on my 2013 Volvo S 60 T5. Two different Volvo dealers told me I needed a new engine and a new transmission. They vehemently denied that it was the PCV system as I suggested. $50 and 20 minutes of labor saved me over $10,000
Nice video, I have the same problem, will it be ok to drive the car 40miles or so to get fixed, I heard you can slightly pull the dipstick up to release pressure so it can be driven, will this method cause any problems
Great video! However after repair it seems that my engine burns oil. It possibile that this damage caused oil burning or it does not matter?
My s40 did this to me yesterday when getting into work, I had to drive it home (not knowing about the dip stick method) and when I parked it there a little bit of oil around the timing cover and inside. Do you think I have ruined my cam seals?