How to replace a front shock absorber on VW GOLF 5 TUTORIAL | AUTODOC
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This video only contains tips and recommendations that could be helpful when carrying out car repairs or replacing parts. AUTODOC is not liable for any harm, injury or property damage incurred while carrying out repairs or replacements, that are a result of incorrect use or misinterpretation of the provided information. This video is for informational purposes only and does not guarantee achievement of a specific result. The user is personally liable for incorrect use of repair equipment, tools or car parts, in particular, when this use poses the risk of injury. AUTODOC strongly recommends being careful and adhering to the safety rules when doing any repair or replacement. Keep in mind that using low quality auto parts does not guarantee the proper level of road safety.
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Why did you remove the bottom ball joint to hub nut rather than the wishbone bolts?
Also when you took the strut retaining bolt out you used a 21mm socket, but when you put it back, you appeared to use a 22mm socket??!
I have this awesome job to do on my golf in the next few days as the spring snapped so I'm gonna change the pair.. should be an experience lol.
It’s a 18mm spanner required , not 19mm ( at least in the UK).
The manual stresses not to use an impact driver on the hub bolt.
When tightening the nuts on ball joints, the threads themselves will just spin unless loaded
You also need a special tool for the nut on top of the shock absorber ( as well as a spring compressor, although that much is clear in the video)
Nothing will come off anywhere near as easily as shown on this video !
You should look up torque settings in the manual . The manual also lists a number of nuts and bolts which should be replaced
There are arrows on the top strut plate that should be fitted inline with the direction of travel
This is really useful video, thank you so much for making it.
Is there a way to do this without the spring compressor? I am home mechanic and do not have one.
This job is so much easier on just about any other FWD vehicle
Great video – did the install exactly like this today. Big thanks! 🙂
I'm glad I saw this…. There's no way I could've done it without loosening the tie rod… Graci!!!!
I love watching this man working. Clean, organized and above all safe. Obviously, removing rusted parts can be a chore but if lubricated a few hours before the work is done can make a huge difference. I did this job on my 2013 Sportwagen TDI but the car has only seen the rain once or twice so it was like working on a new car without dirt and rust. Speaking of clean, a nice blast with a pressure washer can remove all the dirt and grime. There are shortcuts to this job but he does it correctly and by the book. Kids, watch and learn !!!!
u took out allot of unesscary shit lol but intresting video
What is “End Bit No.5”. I thought these were Allen key or torx bits for loosening nut on tie rod.
Must be an aftermarket axle bolt. Mine is not like that.
Mario is a great mechanic. I always thought he was a plumber
comes apart easy when it all new does it ! bit different with older cars !
If only in real life whit all the rust it's was that easy to remove and install
Brilliant video. I second the need for torque settings which I can't find anywhere.
The bearing plates have arrows on. Is this to ensure correct fitment? A view of the other side would also be useful. The struts aren't handed to the drop link must fit differently?
https://youtu.be/p7rsM70zHUc?t=351 That's not a torx. It's a XZN and if you work on german cars, you need a set.
Thanks for posting this excellent video!
Please keep them coming!
Very clear and helpful videos, thankyou.
There is however one major issue that I feel needs to be addressed – Torque settings.
VW (and probably all other vehicle manufacturers) specify Torque values for fixings (nuts, bolts etc.) when they are being tightened. Some bolts are even 'stretch' bolts that are torqued to a value and then turned by a further angle (e.g. 90 degrees) that should only be used once i.e. should be replaced at each use.
This is especially true with suspension and brakes, where insufficient or incorrect torque on certain fixings may result in catastrophic failure resulting in major safety implications.
A great feature is that the videos have been annotated with the correct tool sizes for the fixings being loosened/adjusted so I suggest they could be annotated to provide the correct Torque settings (with reference to relevant service manuals) for the those being tightened.
Hope this helps.
very nice work … you are doing a great job filming and posting so all the people can see it
best regards
great video will try to change my car wheel hub next weekend please make a video how to change vw golf mk5 tailgate cheers