This is a video showing a procedure you can use start to finish to aid you in replacing your front and rear pads and rotors on your 2008 Suzuki XL7.
Parts used in video:
Front rotor # YH145693
Rear rotor # YH145694
Front pad # Wearever Platinum Professional PXD1264H
Rear pad # Wearever Platinum Professional PXD1275H
Brake parts cleaner #W7341
Permatex Ceramic Extreme Brake Parts Lubricant #09973
Castle Muscle Grease # C1606
Fluid Film Powerful Rust & Corrosion Protection # 00207
All parts can be purchased online or at Advance Auto except for the Castle products.
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I think this is one of the oldest of your videos that I've watched. Was surprised at how reserved you were then. Am glad you've gotten more comfortable with us and have let more of your personality come out. Your channel is, by far, my favorite auto repair channel. Thanks for all the great videos and for sharing!
Lol I didn't know it snow rust in New York lol. Awesome video. If you have aluminum caliper brackets does your method work also, just asking.
Eric whats your opinion and have you applied this service to you clients ,brake servicing when the brakes are still good and a good cleaning and lube is required every winter season.
pushing the pistons in without opening the bleeder valve is actually a good method. its a good way to know if the flexible brake line hasn't collapsed and restricted flow . I apply this to every brake job iv done and never run into any trouble.
Old videos vs new videos… I like that he became more comfortable with us.
I live in the rust-belt too and for years I have used the air-hammer or a ball peen hammer but I have to share one warning. When removing the rear rotors on a Toyota Highlander, used a ball peen hammer on the face of the rotor hub in between the lugs and it came right off. Issue was when we started the car the brake / abs light was on.. hammering the rotor face broke the ABS sensors on the rear, both sides.
harbor freight has torque wrenches for 10 bucks, everyone should have one.
Took calipers back to AA because I thought they were defective when the pistons wouldn't push back in, that was an adventure, never heard of screw-in pistons before. Yes, New York roads are notorious for car-eating salt, I'm on the outskirts of Binghamton and have dealt with the rust-monster many times.
Great video!!!
i have the 2.5 gv old style and i think its burning oil alot of white smoke on first start when its warmed up its fine just wondered if anyone knows more than me about them which isnt hard to beat i took it to the garage and was told it might be some seals in the engine the pcv seal and somthing else any help would be awesome. i thought it wouldnt harm asking to the channle as this video is well in depth and to viewers of it
Matt
I enjoy your vids Eric O! The long ones and all! Please keep it up. And thank you.
def knows his shat,good mechanic,wish i had a shop like his in my town.
The best break guru on YouTube hands down. I redid my breaks after watching your videos. Operates much smoother now. Love these kind of long videos where you throw in all the tips and tricks into them. I watch your vids everyday. Keep it up. I would love to see what a bad caliper guide pin looks like though. I suspect mine are on the way out after 220k miles