Rusty Oil Pan Repair with JB Weld on a 2002 Pontiac Grand Prix DIY

Rusty Oil Pan Repair with JB Weld on a 2002 Pontiac Grand Prix DIY

In this video I attempt to repair a rusty oil pan with JB Weld. One day while driving along, an ice chunk hit the oil pan and it started to leak. This video …

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sketchyj says:

I paid over $300 to have my oil pan welded, less than a year later a scrape caused another hole. I’ve flushed the pan by pouring down a gallon of gas, sprayed brake cleaner on the outside and tomorrow I’m going to cover it all with the JB Weld and layers of tin. 

WAT SUP says:

hes not rising blowing the engine…its a small leak and jb weld there is no risk, ive used it on radiators oil pans you name it has never failed me once. radiator repair shops jb weld your leaks when you bring it in
-mechanic

WAT SUP says:

and the reason i say this is a newbie could potentially get jb inside the oil pan and then hes all sorts of fucked so allow a friend with knowledge of automobiles do ur work or if ur like this guy and have basic knowledge do it urself.

WAT SUP says:

yes jb weld will fix this althought i would recommend using several coats one day at a time over a 4 day period and do way beyond the general area. jb weld can fix just about any leak you have. radiator repair shops mostly just jb weld ur leak and charge u out the ass so do it yourself, *disclaimer* if you have no knowledge of cars i do not recommend you do any work on it yourself including jb welding crucial parts. go to a mechanic, jb weld is for people who work on cars and want to save money

Dan Peoples says:

Use a couple/few tin cans to wafer the JB weld/tin.

I once knocked a fairly large hole in an oil pan leaving me SOL fairly far away from home.

With a quick trip to the local department store, and a couple tin cans later + a large container of oil … I was on my way back home and it in fact was a super strong patch!

Lonny C says:

I’m gonna try this on my 99 Ford Ranger. just to get me through the summer. I’ll keep you posted

Turbo231 says:

No risk…its not a blowout, its a slow leak. Even unrepaired, the car would go days and days without needing oil.

wapartist says:

Why would you risk blowing the engine?

Whyyesiamright says:

I’m doing this tomorrow with my Honda. A couple things important to note. It’s important to clean it really well with some elbow grease, and some brake cleaner or diesel/gas if you don’t have brake cleaner. After that, if you are able, texture the surface with scratching or sanding before applying the jb weld to a dry surface. Hope it works your 3rd time!

Turbo231 says:

Hopefully, make sure it’s clean. I ended up replacing the pan.

crifoter69 says:

Tried that with the 77 Chevy Monza Spyder and the 81 Honda Silverwing Motorcycle gas tank. Didnt work either time. Mm in the same situation now with the 95 Chev C1500. Suppose third time is a charm?

Triple A Aardvark says:

This is exactly the info I needed. I’m trying to do the same with my classic 1991 Geo Prism (only 70,000 miles but lots of rust). I really appreciate your video. Thanks.

Joshua Edward says:

I have to do this to my neon motor that was sitting in a field for years, I have an aluminum pan I want to put on but just like in this video my driveway is all snowed up and I’m too lazy to go out there lol.

Turbo231 says:

Yeah, sounds like a better idea, the problem I was having wasn’t cracking though, it was seeping though the layers of metal on the pan and various rusty areas. I probably should have just gotten a tub of JB weld and painted the whole pan. Ended up replacing it anyways.

Wipsplash says:

Use fiberglass cloth that is meant for autobody repair with JB Weld. I coat the area with JB Weld, then put a piece of the cut fiberglass over it, then rub JB Weld into and onto it and let it dry. The fiberglass prevents the JB Weld from cracking.

Turbo231 says:

Depends on the rust…if it is just a crack on clean metal, then yes, I’m pretty sure things will hold up. The issue I had was the rust was so bad it caused leaking regardless.

Ruben Orozco says:

I have a hair line crack and will use JB Weld right now. Question, do you think it will hold up for a good while or will I have to replace the whole pan in an couple of months?

captaincaveman1 says:

I would have done this repair on something difficult to remove the pan that requires engine removal. This looks to easy to replace to bother patching it. I’m guessing this was just to get by until you got a new one.

pongespob says:

Good god, one of the great exercises in futility in history – lol.

It wouldn’t work even if you took the pan off the car and had it professionally chemically cleaned. JB doesn’t hold up to oil or water.

Turbo231 says:

Yes…you bet. I did end up replacing the pan and it was a pain…but if I had to, I’d keep at it.

Matthew Bradley says:

I did a job like this on a 2002 Suzuki XL7 a year and a half ago. I drained the oil and used degreaser and then a wire brush on a drill to remove all the rust and clean the metal to a nice bright shine. I then used Bråklean brake cleaner to prep the surface for the JB Weld. Today I will be doing it again since the cost of everything needed is under $30 and the cost to replace the oil pan would be $800 since the cross member is in the way and I would have to take it to a mechanic.

Turbo231 says:

I haven’t linked the other video I did replacing the pan…and no, if I could have fixed it forever with JB weld, I would have…dropping the pan sucked.

IvysionVideos says:

As much time as you spent under the car applying JB Weld, you could’ve just replaced the pan.

Turbo231 says:

Interesting idea for sure, seems it would work.

Turbo231 says:

It was drained.  Oil seeps into the metal.

j19527 says:

why couldnt you drain the oil first? KISS

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