2001 Pontiac Grand Am 2.4l twin cam engine removal

2001 Pontiac Grand Am 2.4l twin cam engine removal

We had to remove the engine becuase we couldnt find out how to get the oil pan off becuase we didnt have the tool to get to the bolt but later found out we c…

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Jason Sczynski says:

That’s nothing I had a 96 grand am and at 19000 miles the valves
stopped.seating for some reason. 

Brohdaw K says:

I’m working on my 2000 Grand Am SE 2.4 right now and I’m trying to find
out, do I really need to remove the timing chain cover to remove the cam
cover? If so, I’m in trouble and I guess they did that so you wouldnt
DIY…uggghhh (Trying to get an answer asap so anyone who knows for sure,
please reply, thanks)

Bob Burningham says:

Could be the same thing. If the Rod bearing is going out but has not
slipped yet then that maybe why it only makes the noise when its warm/hot.

Lrules364 says:

@potentv8sonly at least someone here agrees with me that amsoil is junk.

pubicsmellerburrito says:

Okay helpful to know. Thanks

Josh Pate says:

man, yall took way too many parts off the engine to take it out I just did
a motor swap on one and it came out with every accessory still attatched.
yall even took off the fuel rail, at the other end the fuel lines come off
with a quick disconnect tool, the only thing i wished i did different was
unbolting the manifold from the head instead of taking out the 3 exhaust
bolts at the pipe

Bob Burningham says:

@superdick305 under the pan you have balance shafts and you will need a
special tool to get them timed to be honest i think it would be easyer to
pull it like i did unless you have is completely off the ground because
working on it on your back is no fun >_<

Andrew Nicholas says:

@Lrules364 and there are plenty of ecotec 4bangers quad 4s 350s 3800’s
series etc. running amsoil for less money than your royal shit with
thousands horrible additives that cause sticky valves and blocking the oil
passages. im sorry my friends but amsoil cleans out more sludge build up
than any conventional or other synthetic. its formulated to be the best for
the 4 ball wear test and volatilty. do you know what im even talking about?
hahah

btemplr4 says:

How do you strip the upper head parts off? I looked through my Haynes book
and it neglected to tell me all what bolts I needed off in any Order. Also
how did you get the cams off

Bob Burningham says:

@superdick305 You have to losen all the bolts holding the motor to the
transmission there are quite a few id say about 4 or 5 on the motor and
tranny it self and then an extra 3 on a mount that is near the firewall on
the far passenger side of the car then that spacer will just fall right
out. to be honest its kinda a pain even still because you have to take the
water inlet pipe off and then manuver the pan around the frame of the car.

airsoftarmor says:

It’s a 95 grand am

negativeeffect2 says:

My 99 Grand AM has one of those junk engines. Decided to just quit going
down the road one, started knocking. The engine would cool down, drive fine
but after she warmed up…just quit. Needs replaced now but gonna purchase
a different vehicle without a 2.4l

Ethan Hamm says:

thanks for the helpful video

pubicsmellerburrito says:

I know this is an old video but I was just wondering what level octane you
run. some people say say just put 87. I run mid grade but I have heard of
other people running 93 just curious what you used.

superdick305 says:

what bolts could you have taken out at the bottom to get that spacer out of
the way to get the oil pan off? im having the same problem, i’m trying to
take the pan off so i can change the pistons without taking the motor out.
all the pan bolts are out except that one. please help

Andrew Nicholas says:

@Lrules364 no i think amsoil is great. its just when you put it in already
worn engines that used conventional all their lives then switch to any
synthetic say at like 170k and it will knock and rattle because of the more
slippery parts but also worn. the synthetic cleaned away the conventional
gunk that was keeping it from running with rattles or knocks. it was like
that for my cuz’s z24 cavi with a 2.4l. bought it with 150k switched to
amsoil and the bitch started knocking and rattling.

tim osness says:

my 2.4 is making a knocking noise to. its not that loud but when you step
on the gas it gets louder and makes a big racket then. you can kinda hear a
squeak noise to while its doing it. i can hear it on the passenger side of
the motor on the exhaust cam and towards the bottom of the motor as well.
thinking its the connecting rods and bearings maybe. i am pulling the motor
to find out. did you ever find out what was wrong with your motor?

Andrew Nicholas says:

@negativeeffect2 great engine when its properly taken care of. had mine in
my 2000 for 150k no knocking. ive used amsoil since i bought it at 22k, and
im sure that has a lot to do with wear.

bigbcha2 says:

I have a 01 grand am with a 2.4 twin cam engine that when started up after
cool down sounds normal, but when driven after a few miles there is a
“knock” that makes my engine sound like a diesel engine when it idles.
Overall the car is running well except for that damn noise. Again the
“knock” goes away after it cools down, but comes back after it has been
driven a few miles. Is there anyone out there who could tell me what could
possibly be wrong?

Andrew Nicholas says:

@Lrules364 royal purple? youre talkin about amsoil sticking and
clogging???? hahaha im sorry all of you dont understand something very very
very simple. amsoil has a gurantee and warranty that if their oil does
anything to harm or cause your powetrain they will replace or pay for its
repairs. NOT ONE PERSON NOBODY SINCE 1972!!! SHIT they were the first to
INVENT SYNTHETIC. so all of you not just L(oser)rules364 think again and do
research not bias royal shit information.

Andrew Nicholas says:

@Lrules364 new engines being worse than worn ones. that right there tells
me you know nothing about synthetics and wear. scratch test,4ball wear
test,volatilty test. look them up and see whose the best! mobil 1? close
but nope. syntec edge is closer haha. btw their oil filters are superior to
any please try and compete because my oil filters last 25k.

92sonoma says:

my mother has a 98 grand am with the 2.4 quad 4 motor with 213,000 miles
and still runs like new. never uses any oil, in fact when i change it every
3,000 it still looks pretty clean

Bob Burningham says:

Old information can still be good information! Personally in this car i use
standard 87 all the time unless i was running a tank of 93 with some fuel
injector cleaner in it just to keep the fuel system clean. not sure if
thats a good idea but science tells me there should be nothing wrong with
it. Im not sure what damages it may cause to run 93 all the time. I only
noticed a performance increase and an economic decrease. My MPG got cut in
half running 93.

iamchevyman5 says:

how many hours would you say it took to get to this point where the engine
begins?

Lrules364 says:

@potentv8sonly if it does it in worn engines, its even worse in new ones.
trust me, i’ve seen it happen.(shit gets clogged real quick. most commonly
is a valve with synthetic.) you dont use stuff like ams for a reason. royal
purple, castrol, or pennzoil is the way to go. synthetic is not always the
answer to your problems. and when messing with a 2nd gen quad, you never
want to put anything with a high synthetic concentrate in it.

Andrew Nicholas says:

@Lrules364 eA Nano technology. sound familiar? injen CAI with nano tech
were produced with AMSOILS eA. granted the flow isnt K&N material but the
dirt trapping along with flow is unsurpassed. didnt mean to bark but amsoil
has saved two of my grandfathers 351 and a rv with the 454 from
overheating. losing a water pump and having a cracked empty radiator in
phoenix during the summer and driving 60 miles home on amsoil has really
got me convinced. and nobody has that powertrain warranty.

Andrew Nicholas says:

@Lrules364 eA Nano technology. sound familiar? injen CAI with nano tech
were produced with AMSOILS eA. granted the flow isnt K&N material but the
dirt trapping along with flow is unsurpassed. didnt mean to bark but amsoil
has saved two of my grandfathers 351 and a rv with the 454 from
overheating. losing a water pump and having a cracked empty radiator in
phoenix during the summer and driving 60 miles home on amsoil has really
got me convinced. and nobody has that powertrain warranty.

Lrules364 says:

@potentv8sonly your experience may vary in many applications. but from what
ive seen, i’d stay far away from that nasty devils oil. its an engine
killer. (and just an fyi, i know you disagree as well as many of the others
who will chime in soon here because that’s how youtube works, but
personally being a mechanic i’ve seen hundreds of engines spit out parts or
implode because they had amsoil in them.)

Andrew Nicholas says:

@Lrules364 not even valvoline engine warranty is the same compared to
amsoils. and if you know ppl who had problems then it was already going to
happen…

Gimiwon Nahgahnub says:

the exhaust manifold is a pain when disconnected from the head and still
connected to the exhaust system–imo

airsoftarmor says:

I need help on putting in a aftermarket tachometer in but can’t figure out
witch wire to use I already used the black one and I don’t want to tear up
my white wire any more should I just put the wire in one of the coils but
how do I do it heeeelp pleas

USAon3 says:

You could have saved yourself a lot of grief by performing the following
simple procedure: 1. Remove radiator cap, holding it about 6 inches above
radiator opening. 2. Roll vehicle rearward until cap is completely clear of
vehicle. 3. Roll Ford product of choice in place until cap is in position
over radiator opening. 4. Replace cap, seating tightly. Problem solved. 🙂

Bob Burningham says:

if pulling the motor its a week job with alot of time on your hands but if
just taking the oil pan out then hoist the whole thing up and drop the
frame. should only take about 6-10 hours if you from the pan. remember to
make sure the timing is proper with the balance shafts. should be top dead
center for everything then turn 90 degrees clockwise or counter i dont
remember then put in the balance shafts and oil pump.

Bob Burningham says:

yeah we figured it out and it was the 3rd rod bearing. clean the whole
thing out and rebuilt it. It ran great for about 5 months until someone
pulled out in front of me and totaled it :/ cost was about 500 bucks
included new rod bearing re-sizing the rods, new crank, new oil etc. Can be
done without pulling the motor but the frame is a pain, just hoist it. you
have to loosen all the motor mounts even the one on the passenger side
holding the tranny. get the book for timing info very important!

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