04 Grand Prix Blower Motor Resistor Replacement Part 1

04 Grand Prix Blower Motor Resistor Replacement Part 1

Part 1 showing the signs and symptoms that your Blower Motor Resistor is failing or has failed.

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elmoxito says:

Is it ok if I don’t take off the fuse

Le Québecois says:

The Blower Motor fuse is in the second fuse Box INSIDE the car passager
side open the door ;)

Robert Kerr says:

The part is the Blower Control Module NOT a resistor pack. This replaces
the Resistor pack (which only allows 5 discrete blower speeds) with a
processor controlled module that allows continuously variable speed control.
That being said, you mentioned signs of moisture. You’re always going to
have some condensation or evaporate in a duct, but look at the circuit
board itself, it’s covered in a protective coating which is quite glossy,
did you see ANY signs of mineral deposits that would show any water
intrusion? just opened up my failed unit and I can say there was ZERO
signs of ANY water intrusion inside the case.
Second, it can’t be stressed enough, after repair (If you chose that
route), you MUST remove the old dried heat-sync compound on the Triac/SCR
(Haven’t pulled it yet to verify the part #) and apply a frsh application
to ensure you don’t have a future failure due to heat.
And if I were going to return my old unit to service, I would lightly scuff
the aluminum heat sync, to remove any scale and mineral deposits (while it
is not near the circuit) so as the maximize the efficiency of the heat
transfer to the ambient air.


Steve T says:

DUDE!!! You completely and entirely rock. My blower motor stopped on the
coldest day of the year (-10F). I bought a new blower ($185) – put the
fuse back in and it blew – went and got a relay ($50) … and it’s all good
as new. I would have never attempted this – you made it so simple and gave
me the confidence to do it myself. I am so incredibly grateful. What can
I do for you???

Hunter Dorough says:

Wow thank man for showing the this I have a 05 grand prix base model and
blower stopped blowing on drive home. Alabama roads were to blame lol. I
decided to unplug the motor and check for voltage getting to actual blower
motor. I was getting 11.7 volts at wire connector. I said i should plug it
back in to motor to make sure i had good connection and bam it came right
on. I suspect it was bumpy road that caused bad contact. this save me 120
dollars so ill go get some steaks and tators for supper with that. Thanks
again.

elmoxito says:

Is it ok if I don’t take off the fuse

san379 . says:

i would take the fuse out and run 16 ga wire up to a light switch and
control it from just this switch and screw the switch to the dash or make a
bracket.. GM probally wants 700$ to replace everything.. just install a
switch .. 5$ from the fuse holder and 2 brass termanals and black house
lampcord and a 50cent house lightswitch.. CHECK MY CHANNEL… I HAVE A RAM
WITH MANY ELECTRICAL PROBLEMS.. CALLED RELAY 73…FIXED IT ALL
CHEAPPP..TRUCK HAS NO RESALE VALUE..NEITHER DOES A 04 GRAND PRIX

san379 . says:

ELECTRICAL PROBLEMS FIXED ON THE CHEAP..CHECK MY CHANNEL

jesse swan says:

dont know if its good to be pulling plugs while car is running….

Brian Marr says:

I hope you got a new key chain, “BOSS”, class of ’76….. and hope you took
that first year restyle back and bought an 02 or 03. The 04’s have too many
electrical problems, as strictly pointed out and proven in this video, and
ya might wanna get the dual climate control. Mine works fabulous and its 10
years old. Baby monitor not included. 🙂

Don Conway says:

Thanks, helped alot

GPVlog says:

Car running or not those are always hot plugs. To be 100 percent safe I
would need to pull the battery terminals.

Rudy Serna says:

You have a child.

Terrell Martin says:

Thanks a lot man got my ac running and thank good this California heat was
killing me Great video!

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