2002 Nissan Maxima: How to replace the Alternator, Idle Pulley, Drive and Serpentine Belts 2/2

2002 Nissan Maxima: How to replace the Alternator, Idle Pulley, Drive and Serpentine Belts 2/2

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Part 1: https://youtu.be/85QEUTtNRTU
Part 2: https://youtu.be/HNhwl-9Gu9w

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Tools & Parts Used

Alternator: http://amzn.to/1RwN6Xg

Idle tensioner pulley: http://amzn.to/1RwNYeg

Drive Belt (alternator and A/C evap):http://amzn.to/1OX9zfr

Serpentine Belt (power steering belt): http://amzn.to/1RwNcOC

Full Socket Set (3/8): http://amzn.to/1RwOkSc

Wratcheting Wrech Set: http://amzn.to/1OX9VTb

WD-40: http://amzn.to/1RwOyJ0

Rubber Gloves: http://amzn.to/1RwOE3s

10mm for battery holder
Lugnut wrench for your tire
10mm for the plastic shield
12mm wrench to release the tension securing screw on the tensioning pulley
9/16 socket + extenders to release the pulley (if yours didnt’ fall off like mine)
9/16 socket + small extender to undo the 4 bolts holding the A/C compressor
5/8 wrench or socket for the alternator (long bolt)
1/2 deep socket to remove top alternator bolt
1/2 socket to take off the idle pulley assembly
12mm to release tension on the tension securing nut (power steering pump)
12mm socket to release tension (power steering pump)
14mm wrench to release the long bolt behind the power steering pump (DO NOT REMOVE THE BOLT)

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Comments

Aymincendiary One says:

If you round the pulley bolt you are going to have to cut it out of there with a cordless grinder. I just bought one site to store at Lowes. I've exhausted all other options I have. Pipe wrench didn't work, nor did a vice grips. You cannot get at the bracket bolts with the pulley in the way. The frame of the car prevents putting on a socket or hammering on a box wrench, and caused clearance problems for the pipe wrench. If I can't reach the stud with the grinder tomorrow I'll have to cut the pulley out in pieces.If I have enough clearance I can get at the 12mm bracket bolts and remove the whole assembly. I tried everything, the fucking thing has to be cut out of there. I'm not paying $300 for an alternator change and you cannot, I repeat, cannot get at the alternator bolts with the idler pulley in the way. So tomorrow I'll pick up my grinder, put it on the charger and get grinding. I can't go any further in my alternator change until that fucking pulley is out of there. Never have I been so stymied by a problem bolt or nut before. At this point in time we're looking at $1000 for the shop to do it because they would have to replace the idler themselves and I would have to have the car flat bedded there so it will sit in the parking lot in my apartment complex until I cut that pulley out of there. Only way, man, there is absolutely no other option but to cut the nut off or cut the pulley apart. So realize and repost this if someone accidentally rounds the nut off. Craftsman cordless 20v grinder, $74 at Lowes,. Get a set of metal cutting wheels. The pulley wheel will have to be put on last, you cannot get at the 12mm bracket nuts with the pulley in the way.

keep smile'n says:

50 bucks ??? Half that price on eBay…free shipping

72+HourBOB says:

I think you did a fine job. Thank you for the tool list as I have to go over to a friends house to replace one and they have 0 tools there and my top box is way to big to take.

Judah says:

Great video was gonna take on the job with my 02 maxima but I paid shop 105 buks to do it took him 2 hours to finish up it was hell

Dennis Morales says:

Im having a hard time putting the belt back on. No matter what i do its not long enough

Jerry Lawrence says:

For future reference the alternator is usually bad when the battery and brake/Park light comes on at the same time that’s a default for most manufacturers then if you keep driving everything else will light up on the dash as the battery drains down til the car cuts off and then you’re stranded somewhere.

richard brady says:

You forgot to video installing the alternator.

Gregory Kitchens says:

I am about to put my alternator back on after replacing the voltage regulator, and I dealt with that bracket on the top by just removing it with the alternator and then removing it from the alternator while it was hanging. The bracket is still hanging from the wire. Im gonna bolt it back in the alternator and then put the alternator back in place. It seems to solve that stupid bolt. Idk why they put that lip on the bracket.

Errol Dillon says:

My hat is off to you! You did a wonderful job on this video. Thanks for your excellent video. I'm about to do this job and your excellent video is really inspirational. I have always known that whenever my alternator needed replacement that it would be a long job. I'm a perfectionist and I have to label everything and put it in a ziploc bag. You've done an incredible job. Thanks so very much for your help. I have Milwaukee cordless tools and I'm not going to use them on this job for fear of rounding a nut or bolt head off. I really think this is a job for hand tools. This is a very tough job for a person that has never done it before. It's very easy to round a bolt head off if you aren't careful. I didn't see if you disconnected the ac compressor before or after you unbolted it. That connection is hard to get to and it has a short line. All of the videos that I've seen never show how they disconnected it. You can short that plug out if you take the ac compressor off before you disconnect it. You can get your hand on it but you can't see what you're doing without a mirror and light. You spent more time on your video showing more detail of the job than any other video I have seen. Thanks again!

Lil James James says:

That bolt on the pull is dumb

John Aranjo says:

My bolts were 14mm for the ac compressor not 9 16th

Dan Parker says:

fucking Nissan Are pos to work on … especially maxima

Jack edington says:

this is the worst job i have done in the last 30yrs bullshit it is not easy and you left out a few steps.

MoJoRisen2012 says:

outstanding job for a selfie proclaimed novice. I followed your video step by step and changed my alternator. Thanks!

Dave Hutchins says:

Thanks, this was helpful to see what the tension pulley setup looked like, I just needed to change the belt and pulley without taking it completely off the engine. My 2003 has 303K, Uses oil like crazy, but need to keep it alive.

Sarah says:

Thanks for the videos. I did this today and was pretty straight forward. The small alternator bolt at the top, near the harness and ground connection was probably more difficult to get back in than take out. I ended up using a really small 1/4 socket wrench with a 3 inch extension and 12mm socket. I tightened as much as possible by hand and then attached wrench to tighten. Also, on the bottom, the "oil" line that needed to be detached was actually a oil coolant tube. I discovered this after mine was punctured somehow and started dripping coolant. Be careful if yours is all rusted out like mine. It seems to be a dealer-only part and I had to order one for 30 bucks. Not too bad, I guess. I did find that removing the idler pulley assembly right away was also helpful. I did replace mine with a new pulley unit like in the video because upon inspection I saw that my tensioner on top was all rusted and seized up. That was about 40 bucks. Best of luck to anyone attempting this and thanks again for the videos.

GhettoMist says:

It was a bit confusing but it is one of the best out there for this car. I'll attempt it and tell you what happened.

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