Mazda 3 lower control arm replacement

Mazda 3 lower control arm replacement

In this video I show you how to replace a passenger side lower control on a 2006 Mazda 3. The passenger side motor mount needed to be loosened by the bolts on the chassis because the AC compressor was in the way, then lifted and supported by a jack and a piece of wood unneath the oil pan.
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The Unofficial says:

Dude. Phenomenal video. Was actually super nice to see it without the knuckle. Great camerawork.

Jeff Wason says:

3:10 saved me, on my Mazda 5 the white metal AC tube blocking horizontal bolt removal was super frustrating but removing the bracket on top and raising the engine slightly with the jack finally gave enough clearance. The unedited video towards the end is a little lame (You need to delete 90 seconds of video before 12:00 when you get the AC bracket bolts back in) but otherwise great explanation and especially talented problem solving!

edecio castillo says:

nice video but i don't think you have to remove the hole system to take the low control arm.

Zam San says:

If you also just remove the one 17mm bolt on the lower torque mount at the bottom…the whole engine can just tilt forward

Darrell Roberts says:

Excellent! thank you SO much for explaning how to separate the control arm from the steering knuckle. Holy smokes! I've been working on one for the last TWO hours trying to separate it without damaging it. The dang Haynes repair manual says to just separate it. I appreciate it. Thanks for the video!

Jason joncas says:

Lefty loosey

Gianny says:

Can you explain why my bols go in to new lca but eill not tighten from the top I'm working in the driver side

mcdeelo7 says:

i need to replace my right side lower control arm aswell, are you available to do it and how much would you charge ?

chvydrptop says:

Good video! Question can you replace the lower ball joint without changing the whole arm? Looking at your video it seems that it can hammered out.

As mentioned below its a good to tighten the bolts with the car at curb height and loaded.

Kevin Christensen says:

Honestly man, I just got a 2005 Mazda 3 for free that was in a front end accident. The only MAJOR issue, aside from body work is this control arm is bent badly. This is one of the best videos I've seen for a repair. You didn't skip anything or fast forward. You walked us through every step and even gave us the bolt sizes. Amazing job man. Thanks again.

Haplo says:

Do you need to remove the rotor and the rest of the suspension assembly?

Lance Coghill says:

You can undo 4 x nuts to drop air con compressor to get front bolt of right hand side is another option. 🙂

ironmb86 says:

just did this in my nephews mazda 3.. The LCA rubs the inner side of the rotor. I suspect his alignment is bad (camber) from him hitting a curb.

Kris Laptos says:

Great video, thanks.It helped me to do the same job on 2007 Mazda 5.
The 5 is similar but NOT the same.One thing, you do not need to unscrew engine mount bolts to do this! They are difficult to open and if you don't have a gun (like you do) it's really hard.Good news is you only need to remove the small protective shield , 3 12 mm bolts, easy.And than put the jack under the flat part of the engine , exactly like you suggest and lift , it gives a little, inch maybe but with shield off it's enough to get that 19 mm bolt out. Cheers!

B0st0n _ftw says:

ummm the balljoint doesnt go where you said it does… isn't that where the shock goes.

Dead Guy says:

Is it okay to tighten the bolts without the suspension loaded, at ride height?

ThePatriot223 says:

Thank you sir for taking the time to show this.

victor vega says:

is there a special tool i can use to get the ball joint in and out of the knuckle, if its on there tight? also, what do you use to lubricate the area where it attaches since you said at the end that you need to lube it up? thanks in advance!

bic popo says:

Hi,
Do you need to do front alignment after replacing your control arm??
Thanks

frank gugliuzzi says:

Thanks so man, I was wondering how to get that 19mm bolt out. What a stupid design.

ringram26 says:

So you wouldnt need to jack the engine if you're doing the driver side correct?

david ruperto says:

What's the name of the piece that goes on top where the 17 bolts are , I need one asap and Idk how to order it

Michael Catlin says:

couldn't you just replace the bushings?

Staggered Horizons says:

great instructional

Younes Rabhi says:

Great video , but at the end you're showing the big hole of the mounting strut instead of the balljoint… lol .

pinoyeh says:

Hey, at 13:08 that part of the spindle attaches to the strut, NOT at the ball joint.

At 12:59, that's the part of the spindle that attaches to the ball joint.

Rob Sarauskas says:

awesome! everyone else on YouTube did the easy side… when I was pulling off the old arm i ran into the same problem with the a/c getting in the way… you're a God-send showing the jacking up the engine. You made my day!

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