You will need the screw in caliper tool to press in the piston and 7mm hex other than that it’s pretty straight forward. The clips on the back of the pad must slide under the piston lip all 3 clips . You may need a 1/4 inch drill to ream or clean up the piston holes on your caliper , you’re not drilling it only reaming it out or cleaning the hole enough to allow the tool to fit easily . With both of my mazda 3 I had to drill the holes so it may be common .
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Where Did you purchase the tool to push back the brake piston
please get a tripod or have a camera person do the video for you.
Hi, s33therfan! What type and size air compressor did you use to power your impact wrench? I'd like to invest in one and want to make sure I have the proper CFM and PSI to power my tools.
You can also use a C-clamp to get the piston in or a set of needle nose plyers. worked for me. C-clamp was the easiest. Thanks for the video
Is Mazda 5 in same year. Same type of brakes
People like you are an asset to society. keep on keeping on man
Instead of pushing the brake fluid back into the reservoir you should open the bleeder to let the fluid escape. Brake fluid is hygroscopic (absorbs water) so it is a good idea to flush some through anyways.
Now i know why it's ticking…
is this a mazda3 hatchback?
Thank you sir.
I think there are different pads that don't have those spring clips that need to be inserted on the Piston of the caliper. I've seen ones that have like a pair of springs on the top that look like a butterfly. This posting on Amazon shows them and even list it for the 2.3 litre Mazda 3 04-05 and Mazda 3 06-13 All.
https://www.amazon.com/KFE-Advanced-KFE1095-104-Premium-Brake/dp/B00IGINAPU/ref=sr_1_5?s=automotive&ie=UTF8&qid=1519643876&vehicle=2004-80-2435————-0&sr=1-5&ymm=2004%3Amazda%3A3&keywords=mazda+3+2004+rear+brake+pads
Hi. Can you please explain why my traction control is acting up (engaging & light on while driving on the road in good driving conditions) and there is a clicking/something loose sound in my rear tires now that I've just had my rear brakes changed on my 2013 Mazda 3.
Thanks for the video. Can you use needle nose pliers to screw in the pistons or is the tool a must?
What symptoms would the car have if the brake pad on the piston side wasn't correctly slid under the lip you're talking about @5:30?