How to Replace Front Strut and Mount 08-13 Mazda 3

How to Replace Front Strut and Mount 08-13 Mazda 3

Buy Now!
New Strut Mount Kit from
New Strut Assembly from

1A Auto shows you how to remove and replace a worn or blown strut and seized or grinding strut mount. This video is applicable to the 08, 09, 10, 11, 12, 13, Mazda 3.

🔧 List of tools used:
• 14mm Socket
• 17mm Socket
• 21mm Socket
• 32mm Socket
• Strut Spring Compression Tool
• Side Cutters
• 1/2 Inch Breaker Bar
• Ratchet
• Socket Extensions
• Torque Wrench
• Rust Penetrant
• Floor Jack
• Jack Stands
• Large Hammer

For More Info visit us at

While 1A Auto strives to make the information provided in this video as accurate as possible, it makes no claims, promises, or guarantees about the accuracy, completeness or applicability of the content. No information contained in this video shall create any expressed or implied warranty or guarantee of any particular result. All do-it-yourself projects entail some risk. It is the sole responsibility of the viewer to assume this risk. 1A Auto is not responsible or liable for any loss damage (including, but not limited to, actual, consequential, or punitive), liability, claim, or any other injury or cause related to or resulting from any information posted in this video.



1A Auto: Repair Tips & Secrets Only Mechanics Know says:

Watch the Video
Buy The Part at 1A Auto
Do it Yourself
Save Money

T A says:

The strut, bearing and top mount have projections on them that u need to line up to have them properly aligned. Then u don't need to eyeball whether the spring sits on the flat part of the bearing

inee107 says:

why not just unplug the abs wire?

mr2cqql says:

You do not need to remove the axle nut and hub to change the strut. Please stop giving wrong information.

jason gaskin says:

Thanks this help alot on my mazada 3 2005

Wassim Bejjani says:

Excellent, very detailed video, like all the other ones you've done!

My only comment is that when you put the strut back together, the instructions state that you have to align the rubber tab on the bearing (top part of the strut assembly) with the "hook" (bottom part of the strut assembly) that goes into the knuckle that holds the strut in place when you reinstall it in the car. This means that the top end of the spring will not necessarily rest inside the shallowest part of the bearing as stated @ 15:30. Maybe a minor detail, but I thought I'd mention it.

Comments are disabled for this post.