https://amzn.to/3fmNbQX – Versachem 26080 Synthetic Caliper Grease
https://amzn.to/3SPlfmL – [2 Pack] Brake Caliper Hooks
https://amzn.to/3U5NH4E – Milwaukee 2767-20 M18 FUEL High Torque 1/2″ Impact Wrench with Friction Ring
https://amzn.to/3DjBS3Z – TEKTON 1/2 Inch Drive Impact Universal Joint | SIA22102
https://amzn.to/3UbTAxs – Milwaukee 2567-20 M12 FUEL Brushless Lithium-Ion 3/8 in. Cordless High Speed Ratchet
https://amzn.to/3fo0alD – Milwaukee 2560-20 M12 FUEL 3/8″ Extended Ratchet
https://amzn.to/2ZBs7u5 – GearWrench Torque Wrench used in video
https://amzn.to/2ZyyHl7 – Brake Cleaner
https://amzn.to/3T40p3b – Wire Wheels for drill
https://amzn.to/3Dp4zwF – Permatex 80078 Anti-Seize Lubricant with Brush Top Bottle, 8 oz.
https://amzn.to/3zCGEZA – Permatex Threadlocker 6 Ml Blue
https://amzn.to/3sIqz0v – Milwaukee Safety Glasses
https://amzn.to/3NtOCdi – [Front & Rear] Detroit Axle – Ceramic Brake Pads with Hardware Replacement for 2014-2016 Mazda 3 3 Sport – Japan Built Manual Parking Brake Models – 4pc Set
https://amzn.to/3E0NieR – Power Stop 17-1728, Z17 Front Ceramic Brake Pads with Hardware
We got the brake pads and rotors at our local O’reilly Auto Parts Store.
Just a quick video showing how to replace the front brake pads & Brake Rotors on a 2014 Mazda 3 2.5L Japan Built. You will need to check your vin number to determine if your vehicle is built in Mexico or not. Thankfully our local O’reilly Auto Parts Store was able to look it up for us and determine which parts we needed.
Tools needed:
A large screwdriver or prybar
13 mm Wrench or socket with ratchet and/or breaker bar
17 mm socket or wrench with breaker bar or impact wrench
brake caliper grease
wire brush or drill with wire brush attachment (wear safety glasses)
anti-seize
Torque Wrench
Torque specs I found online:
Caliper slide pin bolts 20-22 ft lbs
Caliper Support Bracket bolts 68-81 ft lbs.
I also did the rear brake pads & rotors on this same vehicle. Here’s a link to that video if you need it: https://youtu.be/4UxgwMiwC6c
Thanks for watching!
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-Dan the Fix it Man
www.danthefixitman.org
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Song used in the video:
‘All I Am’ by Dyalla
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you've got a gift for teaching–thank you!
Dude had the same prob getting the pads on the rear carrier. Totally ridiculous.
Very thorough. The rubbers split on my pins. Gonna clean out the holes the pins slide in. They are really dirty.
Really good.
nice video. Really appreciate how you don't edit the video to take out the "challenging" parts! Thank you!
excellent video. Yeah inserting the break pads is very very hard. Possibly the pads fit too tight. Hope not to cause overheated calipers. There is no easier solution to sliding the pads in the brackets. Its just frekin hard man
9:49 I spy a VGG enjoyer
Any chance you could show me the jack point on the frame that you use!? Im unsure where to jack it up
Thank you so much for this video, it was very helpful.
I did this job on a good friends car today, the Japanese made.
While doing the repair I found out two helpful things. If only the bottom 13mm screw is removed and the top one only loosen, the top screw can be used as a hinge to raise the metal casing up and out of the way, it leaves plenty of space for the job.
One of the old pads can be used to compress the piston. Place the old pad against the piston, there is a nudge on the pad that can be also inserted on the casing, use a large screw driver inserted in the casing to push against the pad to easily compress the piston. I hope this can be of help.
Ive learned that if your new brake pads are not seating in easily, do not force it or fight it in. They can definitely be too tight, which will cause rhe lad to stay pushed against the rotor even when you're not applying the brakes while driving. Then you brakes overheat and burn up all the lube in the caliber pins, and damages the capiler as well. Instead, take a dremel tool to the spot on the pad base that is causing it to stick. Takes 30 seconds. After that it will slide in like butter. These pads are made in China with poor quality control most times.
Props for the tonya harding shout out.
8:51 mine isn’t moving? What does that mean
Why not screwing the disc back into place before putting the caliper back?
Thank you so much for these video I’ve just changed my 2015 Mazda 3 and saved $250 on labour and the breaking is so much better
Thx! Great vid. For some reason the stock Mazda hardware for the front is a 2 part shim. An inner anti-vibration shim goes on the inside. It seems to keep things quiet longer and you can grab them at the dealership for a little over $10. Has a packet of grease too.
The brake pad clips are different on these cars. Be mindful which came from the top and from the bottom. The clips with the longer front goes on top if I remember correctly. Also, don't mix up the slide pins. The one with the rubber bushing goes on the bottom.
Great video. I’m going to give mine a go on Saturday. I actually really appreciated seeing the trouble you had getting the pads into the clips. Great to see the potential challenges and how to work through them.
Really great video!
Interesting