http://danthefixitman.org/2006-mazda-rear-brake-pads-rotors-video/
Please click the above link for product links and info on my website.
Caliper Wind Back Tool: https://amzn.to/2BCmboR
Sil-Glyde Link to Amazon: https://amzn.to/2L6obdd
Just a quick video showing how to replace the rear brake pads & Brake Rotors on a 2006 Mazda 3. I also posted a video on the front brake pads and rotors here:
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=Egnq96Pkqm0
Tools needed:
A small screwdriver to pry the plastic caps off the caliper slide pins
7mm Allen Wrench or socket allen wrench style (what I used in the video)
14mm socket or wrench with breaker bar
sil glyde or similar brake grease
Brake cleaner
Rear Brake Caliper compression tool (click the first link above to buy it online if you need it.)
Torque specs I found online say the caliper slide pins are 21 ft lbs and the Caliper Support Bracket bolts are 55 ft lbs.
The replacement retainer spring that came with this brake pad kit was not the correct size, so I reused the original.
Thanks for watching!
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-Dan the Fix it Man
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Hello. I'm turning the piston but won't go back. What might be the problem?
Hello. I came across this video in looking up the so-called problem with doing these rear disc brakes for a Mazda 3. Very thorough. I also appreciate the way you used a breaker bar when trying to loosen those bracket bolts instead of using a rachet. I guess you like your tools, LOL.
I just wanted to comment on one item. I believe you put the pads on in reverse position. I noticed the two dimples on the outer pad and I think that pad goes on the inside. Those dimples line up with the caliper piston and sort of lock in. This way the parking mechanism works properly. When you turn the piston back in, the pins holes are suppose to line up top to bottom.
This is the same on many makes of cars I have come across. Otherwise, nice video. Thanks for sharing.
first link is a dead link; there's no compression tool anymore
What function does the wire on the outside of the caliper serve ?
Three points: First is that the tool needs to have pins on 19mm centres but non-full kit tools only do 23 and 33mm. The answer is to drive out the tool's pins, then drill two new holes at 19mm centres – I actually drilled, tapped and counterbored for a couple of 12mm M4 socket-head screws to give me a bit of leeway on the spacing.
Second is make sure the dust seal doesn't spin with the piston.
Third is the anti rattle spring shown here is what seems to be fitted these days but you may get a pad set with the older type that needs to be clipped onto the inner piston.
Need to turn when pushing the piston? Or is it necessary to push it with a vise? Thank you
Is it possible to compress the piston without the special tool? Thanks Dan.
@Dan the Fix it Man Great video. Question, at about 14:30 you start to rotate the wheel and it sounds like the pads rubbing against the rotor? I just replaced the rear brakes/rotors on my 2005 today and it keeps making the same noise even after after driven over 100km. Any ideas?
This is one of the better videos I've seen for this brake job, thanks. Can you please tell me which brake kit from amazon has the proper attachment to compress the piston?
Very nice guide. Also, thank you so much for not skipping the difficult parts or trying to hide where you had trouble. It reassures me that I'm doing it right, but that I just need to remain determined.
Nice video. Is the 7mm standard or metric?
Very well done – I have looked at a dozen or so of these Videos and yours was by far the easiest to follow. I have no idea why there have been so few views. Thank you !