Part 2 of 3 on a timing belt change on a 2000 Toyota Sienna V6. Covers specific considerations for interference engine design and aligning timing marks on th…
Part 2 of 3 on a timing belt change on a 2000 Toyota Sienna V6. Covers specific considerations for interference engine design and aligning timing marks on th…
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The main thing that separates the amateur from the pro is depth of
experience, to know what to do when things don’t go well. For example a
broken bolt, or a harmonic balancer that won’t walk off. The pro already
knows how to deal with it. He shrugs and reaches for the right tool, as you
did at 0:22. The amateur swears and gets a bigger prybar, and then problems
cascade.
Springs are relaxed when valves are closed, so wouldn’t the relaxed
position of camshaft be one with most of valves closed? I don’t suggest to
let it turn, but trying to understand what will happen if that wrench
would fail to hold that camshaft.
Hey Matt! Once I broked a camshaft sproket on a,Ford Probe 2.5 V6 engine
with a cam holder like yours. It was a bad day…jeje since then I prefer
to take the valve cover and do it like the proper standars. Grettings From
Barcelona Matt!
Wrench holding the pulley will keep tension on it and the possibility
of it flying off and damaging something else, plus get in the way of belt
R&R. Impact gun on the pulley bolts would work if it fit in there.
While talking about changing the water pump you mentioned the need to
remove the cam sprocket. At the beginning of the video series you mentioned
having a complete timing belt kit with water pump gaskets and seals (that
you didnt show all) but now it seems that you are not going to change the
cam and crank oil seals which I do on every job as a professional. These
seals also have 108K miles and are hard and the garloc seal spring is not
compressing as strong and these seals will start to leak soon enough. As
you know, oil leaking on the belt later (soon) will shorten the life of the
new belt, not to mention the oil leak will show up on the driveway soon
enough also and will require the entire timing belt and gears to be removed
again just for a $10 seal replacement (about $30 for all three, in Japan
price). I also estimate the accessory belts as part of the job after
getting eyes on to see how old they may look, as you have mentioned. If
previously leaking oil I will also replace the front timing cover dust
gasket (if used) as it is usually swollen. If not swollen, I will clean it
and RTV it back onto the cover right away so it will be dry by the time I
put the cover back into place. I also like marking the belt technique with
a white stripe and verifying proper alignment before removing the belt
initially, Great job again.
Please dont forget that when you remove the harmonic balancer, that you
should inspect the crankshaft key, and dont loose it, the crank keyway and
the balancer keyway to see if these items are worn out, key slightly
sheared or keyways for being enlarged. As part of this job on some cars
you will align the timing marks on the crank gear but once the job is done
there may be timing marks on the balancer pulley itself to set timing or
there may be a reluctor wheel on the back side of the balancer pulley that
requires proper alignment with its crankshaft pick up sensor (CKP) and if
the key or keyways are worn this alignment will be off and may seriously
effect electronic timing on late models or inductive timing as far as a
timing light is concerned on older models. Always love your work.