Car Fix DIY Videos

http://clublexus.com/how-tos is the leading Lexus IS, RX, ES, and GS resource for technical DIY guides. Maintaining and replacing brake lines is an important maintenance item for your Lexus IS. For the full step-by-step article, please visit http://www.clublexus.com/how-tos/a/lexus-is-how-to-replace-brake-line-363513

You might not even think about your brakes until you really need them. All it takes is for one part of the braking system to fail and disaster can strike. The weak link in the chain between the pedal and the pads is the rubber hose that routes brake fluid to and from the calipers. Age and high mileage will render hoses unsafe as they lose their ability to contain high hydraulic pressure. Hoses can also swell shut or deteriorate from the inside, which visual inspection can’t detect.

This moderately difficult job takes half a day and costs about $40 dollars. Taking your Lexus IS to a professional will cost from $300 to $650 dollars.

This job requires a lug wrench, jack and jack stands, a wire brush, flared-end wrenches, a box-end wrench, a deep-well 6-point socket wrench, locking pliers, a torque wrench, penetrating oil, brake fluid and hoses, rags or towels, a drip pan, an old plastic bottle and vinyl tubing, and an assistant or helper.

Step One – Lift the car and remove the wheels

Break loose the lug nuts using a lug wrench or 21 millimeter impact socket or wrench.
Lift the vehicle using a floor jack and place jack stands at the jacking points.
Lower the vehicle onto the jack stands. Repeat for rear if replacing rear lines.
Fully remove the lug nuts and remove the wheels.

Step Two – Inspect the brake hose

Look at the rubber hose between brake calipers and body. If cracked or swollen, it needs to be replaced.

Step Three – Remove the brake line

Clean areas around the hose, caliper, and hard lines with a wire brush. Spray threaded fittings at hose ends with penetrating oil. Follow directions on the package and let it soak.

Position a drip pan to catch brake fluid.
Loosen the fitting at the end of the hard line. Use a 10 millimeter flare wrench on the fitting and 17 millimeter wrench on hose’s metal end. Once loosened, use a 14 millimeter wrench to remove the bolt attaching the brake line to the brake caliper.

Finish unscrewing the hard line fitting, pull out retaining clip with pliers, then pull hose away from the bracket/hard line.
Remove bolt and hose from caliper. Plug the inlet port of the caliper to keep dirt and debris out.

Step Four – Install the new hose

Bolt the new hose and crush washers to caliper and tighten.
Place the other end in the bracket and re-install the retaining clip.
Finger-tighten the hard line fitting into hose end, then tighten using flared-end wrenches.

Step Five – Bleed the brakes

You’ll need a helper to press on the brake pedal; another would be helpful to monitor and refill the master cylinder. Starting at the wheel farthest from the master cylinder (typically the right rear), loosen the bleeder screw with a flared-end wrench, and have a helper push the brake pedal all the way to floor.

Tighten the screw, then tell the helper to pump the brakes while making sure the master cylinder has fluid. When the brake pedal gets hard, loosen the bleeder screw so that fluid exits the fitting. Place a clear vinyl tube over the end of the bleeder screw and extend it into a bottle that’s partially filled with brake fluid. Extend the tube to the bottom of the bottle so that it’s covered by brake fluid and doesn’t draw air back into the line. Continue pumping the brakes until fresh fluid and no air bubbles come out.

When finished, tighten the screw and move to next caliper. Repeat for left rear, then move to right front, and finally left front.

Step Six – Check for leaks

Once all the brakes are bled, have your helper press the pedal while you recheck that fluid isn’t leaking at any of the brake line connections. Re-tighten if it is.

Step Seven – Re-install the wheels

Place wheels back on car; install lug nuts.
Lift the car, remove the jack stands, and set the wheels back on ground. Finish tightening the lug nuts.

Step Eight – Go for a test drive

Take a short drive, check again for leaks, and re-torque lug nuts if necessary. Provided there aren’t any issues with brakes grabbing or more leaks, you have successfully replaced the brake lines.