How to Install Amplifier Power Wire in Lexus

How to Install Amplifier Power Wire in Lexus

http://clublexus.com/how-tos is the leading Lexus IS, RX, GS, and ES resource for technical DIY guides. Installing an aftermarket amplifier wire in your Lexus will give your sound system the enhanced power it needs. For the full step-by-step article on how to install an aftermarket amplifier power wire, visit http://www.clublexus.com/how-tos/a/lexus-how-do-i-install-aftermarket-amplifier-power-wire-363504

By completing this task, you will be able to both upgrade your Lexus’ amplifier system, and install new speaker options that were not available with the OEM system. While the installation isn’t particularly technical, there is a need for caution due to working with the electrical system. Observe common-sense safety, meaning don’t touch a live wire, and this installation will be a breeze.

This moderately difficult job takes two hours and costs around $65 dollars to complete yourself, whereas taking your Lexus to a professional will cost nearly five times as much.

For this job you’ll need a socket wrench set, a screwdriver, a coat hanger, and an amplifier power wire kit.

Step One – Remove the car battery

First, use a wrench to undo the battery harness. Then disconnect the negative battery terminal (the black one) followed by the positive battery terminal (the red one).
Remove the battery.

Step Two – Punch a hole in the rubber wiring grommet

Removing the car battery will expose a black rubber grommet stuffed with other power cords heading towards the cabin. Take a screwdriver and punch a small hole in the rubber grommet for routing the power cord.

Step Three – Remove the glove box trim panel

Remove the interior panel directly below your glove box in order to gain access to the rubber grommet from the interior side. Gently pinch the clips that hold the panel in and pull down.

Step Four – Remove passenger side scuff panels

Use a screwdriver to pry off the scuff panels on the passenger side, front and rear. Removing the panels will expose several wires and connectors that run the length of the vehicle.

Step Five – Feed the power cable into the engine bay

Using a stretched out coat hanger, feed the new power cord through the new hole made in the rubber grommet.
After inserting it, go back underneath the glove box and pull the cord through. Feed the cord through the channels that were underneath the scuff panels. Re-install the scuff panels when finished.

Step Six – Route the wiring to the trunk

The rear seat cushions are held in by a hook. To remove them, lift up on the seat near the hook. It might take a little wiggling to release the hook.

Remove the rear seat. It’s held in place with four bolts along the bottom. Remove those bolts and lift the seat back up and forward to access the rear panel. There are several holes leading into the truck, so choose the one closest to where the amp will be mounted. Locate the clips that are holding in your rear speaker covers in the trunk and remove the cover.
Locate the rubber grommet that is feeding the wires from the interior into the trunk.

Remove the upper trunk panel next. It’s held in place by two clips and three retainers. Remove the clips with a small flathead screwdriver. Remove the retainers by simply pulling them out. Pull it off its hangers and out of the trunk.

Step Seven – Feed the new power cord into the trunk

Using the same wire hanger method, feed the new power cord into the trunk. You will now have the ability to attach the new cord to your new amplifier as needed.

Step Eight – Re-install the car battery

Place the battery back in its tray and re-install the battery bracket. Do not reconnect the battery cables yet.

Step Nine- Attach the new power cord to the car battery

The power cord kit should’ve come with a fuse. Don’t forget to install the fuse with the power cord. Without it, there’s a much higher chance that an electrical hiccup will fry the amplifier.

Secure the new power cord to the positive battery terminal and tighten it. Double check that the new power cord is not loose or near any moving parts in the engine.

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Comments

Raphael De K says:

remove your car

jay syed says:

How about the ground and the remote wire with out those the the amp won't power on

Ramon Roman says:

What about the ground wire?

Sfg77 Dfjuhfg says:

I wish this worked for 1/0 ;(

Rabin Boedhoe says:

Nice video,but never use a screwdriver too remove your scuff panels!use a plastic panel removal tool or else you might damage your paint or scuff panel

Jesse James says:

looks a lot like my 2000 Avalon from the interior side of things. were was the entry point located under the hood at the firewall I assume passenger side but was it near where the heater plumbing travels through the fire wall? if so thats were I think I need to run my 4 gauge wire threw! I currently got it running over the driverside wheel well under the dust shroud and up threw the driver side floor board drain plug I don't like it like that cause their exposed wire under the car! the run of wire is shorter that way but not as "clean" and safe id have to route the wire over to the passenger side firewall cause my battery is on the driver side front! FML

Donna Vargas says:

Would this do also for a 2003 Lexus es300??

Azya Holloway says:

Who lives in Orlando that knows how to do this

Papa Grim says:

you only need to disconnect the negative terminal

Dewayne K says:

Would this be the same for older Lexus like a 98 GS 400

SAJ@TV says:

can you please show us the same job for Lexus rx 400h please?

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