Kia Optima – Front Brake Pads & Rotors Replacement – 2015

Kia Optima – Front Brake Pads & Rotors Replacement – 2015

2015 Kia Optima EX Brake Pads & Rotors Replacement – 5 Minute DIY Video

This video shows how I replaced the Front Brake Pads and Rotors on a 2015 Kia Optima EX Sedan which is a 2015-2018 fourth generation Optima.

The work performed in the video was on a 2015 EX model but yours will be very similar if it is a 2015 Kia Optima LX or SX or Hybrid LX Model.

This video and the description here are for informational purposes only. They are reference to my efforts and knowledge of the subject. It is not a complete guide or the authority on the procedure! If you are unsure about your ability to do the work, please find a professional to teach you or to do it for you. Remember as with all Do It Yourself (DIY) YOU alone bear all the risk when working on your own car. You can injure yourself or others while performing work itself and even as a result of your work!

Tools:
14mm Socke – Torque to 20 ft-lbs
17mm Socket – Torque to 60 ft-lbs
17mm wrench
Torque wrench
19mm lug wrench – Torque to 75 ft-lbs
Torque Wrench
Silicone Paste (high temp, rubber safe lube)
Hammer
Vehicle jack with stands & wheel blocks
Gloves
Eye Protection
Brake Cleaner
Penetrating Fluid
Paper towels
Piston Press
Impact Screw Driver (Phillips)

Parts:
Two (2) Rotors
Here is the link to the Rotors for only the 2015 Optima EX or LX or SX:
https://amzn.to/3iatglm

Disc Brake Pad Set (4 Pads) & Hardware
Here is the link to the Brake Pad Set & Hardware for only the 2015 Optima EX or LX or SX:
https://amzn.to/3sntjPp

Now you can support my videos when you purchase anything from amazon.com after following the links in this video description!

My Advice:

1. Rotor Screws:
The screws on these rotors can be really hard to get off! If you try to use a normal screw driver or gun you will likely strip the head of the screw. Please consider investing in an Impact Driver and a bottle of penetrating oil like pB B’laster. Soak the screws with the Penetrating oil and let it set for a while, then take the Impact Driver and follow the instructions it came with to make sure you have it set to move counter clockwise to remove the screw. Be sure to add twisting pressure counter clockwise while you hammer at the base of the driver. I use a cheap $9 Impact Driver from Harbor Freight, they have a lifetime warranty so when I broke the bit in this video, all I had to do was take it back and they gave me a new one. If you can’t find a Harbor Freight near you here is the standard one (twice the price of Harbor Freight! but much better quality I’m sure) with tons of good reviews on amazon:
https://amzn.to/2Lo9RSa

Penetrating Fluid (pB B’laster):
https://amzn.to/3nJmeVT

2. Guide Pins:
Be sure to use Silicone Paste or some other high heat lube made for use with rubber, may types of lube will degrade rubber. I really like the 3M Silicon Paste, it is expensive but its great stuff and one bottle lasts a really long time. Here is the the Amazon link below:
https://amzn.to/2XSzOy8

3. Pressing the Caliper Piston:
Always check the brake fluid level before you press the pistons. The fluid level will rise as you press the piston in. There doesn’t need to be a ton of room, just shouldn’t be at the max level on the reservoir when you start.

If you haven’t added fluid since your last job there shouldn’t be an issue. Just remember that brake fluid is hydroscopic (absorbs water from the air) and you will introduce water into your fluid (BIG problem) if you leave the cap off for an extended time. I never take the cap off when I press the pistons, the reservoir is designed to let out pressure without letting air in.

You shouldn’t need to add brake fluid to your reservoir (in my opinion) unless you found a leak or you are flushing out old fluid. If the level goes down overtime as pistons extend to compensate for the shrinking width of the brake pads. That why there are max and min lines on the reservoir. If you are below the min, and don’t have any leaks, you need new brake pads, not to add fluid.

If you don’t have a piston press, they are like $8 at Harbor Freight. Or you can pick up a better one on amazon for about the same price:
https://amzn.to/3qvfZab

All your comments likes and subscribes are greatly appreciated! Every sub makes it a little easier for me to keep making videos, I really appreciate your support!

Thanks so much everyone for watching and subscribing!

luke

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Comments

Ayodele David Akinpelu says:

Easy video i had a hell of s time doing mine in the driveway. A 2016 optima ex rear brakes, they only had ceramic replacements, with the thick meaty pads, but i had to dis mount the entire bracket in order to do so. Also i struggled putting back on the caliper bolts as it still had threads locker on them.

Slick N Slidin says:

For the rotor screws do i want a 3/8 or a 1/2 inch impact screwdriver?

danggi2 says:

Is this same for Kia Optima 2016 hybrid?

It's me, Lev says:

JUST finished brakes on my sister's 2015 Kia Optima. Was actually able to do it because of this video and the suggestion to get an impact screw driver from Harbor Freight ($9.99). Would have otherwise given up on the rotor screws. Thanks!

Yash says:

Could please also put the links for the rear rotors and brake pads. It took me so much time to find original rotors

Marc Ecclefield says:

Best video of this procedure on YT. Thank you!

Jonathan Greene says:

Fantastic video! Super helpful without the fluff. Thank you!

Andre Creighton says:

Thanks for this vid! Can you post the rear rotor replacement for this Kia too? (I have the 2012 model)

WOFFORDS OVERLAND JOURNEYS says:

I have a 95 Chevy Astro van brand new alternator brand new battery alternator is not charging battery, where does the alternator get its power from is it coming from ignition switch or what??

red horse says:

Thank you for posting this amazing video.

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