Jeep Wrangler JK JKU 3.6 Pentastar Oil Filter Cooler Housing Replacement

Jeep Wrangler JK JKU 3.6 Pentastar Oil Filter Cooler Housing Replacement

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3.6 Pentastar Oil Filter Adapter / Cooler Assembly Removal and Replacement
ALL TORQUE SPECIFICATIONS ARE LISTED AS – “INCH POUNDS”

Parts Needed:
Oil Filter/Cooler Housing – PN – 68105583AE
Intake Manifold Gasket Set – PN – MS97204
2 Quarts Oil

Tools Suggested:
8mm Socket
10mm Socket
3″, 6″ 12″ extensions
Socket adapters
T20 Torx
T30 Torx
E8 Torx or 1/4″ 12-point Socket
Standard Pliers
Torque Wrench: 50 -120 INCH POUNDS

1. Remove Plastic Engine Cover – Lift and pull forward
2. Remove Air Box Components (10mm and 8mm sockets, 3″ and 6″ extensions)
3. Remove upper intake (8mm capture bolts) Also 2 plastic body clips (on back of the upper intake)
4. Remove the (2) Vent lines on from of the upper intake
5. Remove (3) lines on passenger (right) side of upper intake
6. Remove (4) T20 torx bolts on the bottom of the upper intake
7. Remove foam from behind the upper intake at firewall
8. Remove (2) 10mm nuts on driver side rear of upper intake
9. Unplug the Map Sensor – In front of the Oil Fill Tube.
10. Remove electrical connector on the bottom of the throttle body opening
11. Remove (2) 10mm nuts below the Map Sensor
12. Using a body tool remove wiring clip used to secure the Map Sensor wiring
13. Remove (2) 10mm bolts holding wiring connector on passenger side
14. Remove (2) 10mm heater line mounting nuts
15. Remove Vent hose behind Map Sensor location
16. Remove upper intake – pull towards passenger side and upper intake will lift up and out
17. Remove foam on top of driver side spark plugs
18. Using a T30 Torx driver remove (4) bolts holding fuel rails on the engine
19. Unplug the fuel injectors on the both sides
NOTE:
The injectors and/or the O-Rings may stay in the manifold when removing the fuel rails
20. Carefully remove the fuel rails from the passenger side fuel injectors and then the driver side fuel injectors.
21. Lay both fuel rails to the driver side out of the way.
22. Using a 10mm socket remove the (7) bolts holding the lower intake to the engine

NOTE:
1 bolt is hidden under he previously removed bracket on the passenger side
NOTE:

There is a wiring harness attached to the back of the lower intake with a zip-tie clip.
23. Carefully remove the lower intake, check for additional wiring on the back of the manifold
24. Using a E8 external torx driver or 1/4″ 12-point socket remove the 5 torx bolts holding the oil filter/cooler housing to the engine

NOTE:
Suggest cleaning the gasket surfaces before reassembly and cover the intake ports until reassembly as to not get anything inside the engine. Wide painters take is very effective

25. Maneuver the oil filter/cooler housing up and out, once free of the engine unplug the wiring for the oil pressure sensor and Oil Temperature Sending unit on the back of the housing and the pinch clamp for the cooling line
26. Clean out all old oil from the oil filter/cooler housing mounting valley.
27. Lube the o-rings on the new oil filter/cooler housing for easier assembly
28. Re-install the cooler hose using a standard pliers
NOTE:
Some manipulation of the housing is required to get it back into the mounts
The block side intake manifold openings are very sharp, be careful not to get cut

29. Install new oil filter/cooler housing
30. Oil filter/cooler mounting bolts are torqued to 106 INCH POUNDS in a criss-cross pattern starting from driver side near the electrical connector to the front with the 5 in the very front being torqued last.
32. Reinstall the lower intake manifold using new intake gaskets
NOTE:
Upper Manifold bolts – 89 INCH POUNDS – Sequence (Front #1, Back #2, Middle #3)
Upper to lower intake bolts 106 INCH POUNDS
Lower Manifold bolts – 106 INCH POUNDS

33. Use dielectric or silicone based lubricant on the injector o-rings to more easily install them, plug injectors back in and seat firmly
34. Using the same lubricant lightly lube the fuel rail injector connections
35. Re-install the fuel rails with driver side first then passenger side. The Fuel rail and injector have slots so they fit properly, make sure you line these slots up with each injector so they are seated properly.
36. Torque Fuel Rails to 62 INCH POUNDS
37. Fuel injector wiring harness bracket bolts 89 INCH POUNDS
38. Fuel rail feed hose bracket bolts 89 INCH POUNDS
39. Wiring connector bracket bolts 89 INCH POUNDS

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Comments

Scissors Paper Rock says:

Did you use the actual Mopar part or an after market? Thanks for making this vid btw!

james denn says:

Thank you,Great video
Is there a way to print the instructions you made?

Rene Morales says:

Can you guys help me out, I tried replacing this part and put everything back together but now I’m leaking coolant from somewhere. It’s dripping down to the transmission

Charles Montgomery says:

Great video! Nice to see all of the steps as they happen and including all of the torque specs and sequences was a major help. Thanks

Victor Moreno says:

They should make a recall to this part since everyone having this problem and now they have a massive back order have my jeep sitting over 3 weeks waitting for the part to come with 35k miles on it cant even drive the peace oh shi….

Curtis Akre says:

Fantastic video! I'll be doing this exact job today!

Brett P says:

Going to do this this weekend going to follow your video

Nathan Mcdonald says:

I just wanted to give a huge thank you to you for this video. I have never worked on my vehicle and was able to follow your video step by step. You saved me thousands of dollars and I learned a lot along the way.

Thank you for taking the time to make this, it's a very, very well done tutorial.

I would say there are some additional things to watch out for as a noob but I think most everyone has mentioned them.
Thank you for saving me from the evil dealership!

Heather Smith says:

This video is amazing. Replaced my JK's oil cooler easily, put it back together and it runs like a champ. Thank you for this!!

Joe Ronsman says:

Just found out my 2015 jk with 37k has this problem the dealer said it’s under warranty and the plastic cracks and Jeep has a updated part only problem there’s a 27,000 recall on them waiting on the part to arrive

KidOutDoors says:

I have to replace mine this weekend it’s a 2017 Jeep Wrangler Sahara with only 45k miles and I already have this problem

Roger Cueto says:

BEST VIDEO HANDS DOWN!!! Was going to give it to my mechanic since I didn’t have the torques or proper sequences to do but once I saw your video it’s way worth the savings not to do it myself. I got code p520 which is the oil pressure switch but I’m replacing everything since I’m going to be in there. Too bad this didn’t go bad when I replaced the coil packs 20k miles ago. By the way my mechanic quoted me $465+tax here in Houston, TX. Again, awesome job!!!!

Jess Strunk says:

Outstanding vid you guys!! This is by far the most well shot and comprehensive vid on this job on YT! The others are poor at best but I cant see one single part you omitted. I'm about to do this job on 2013 Wrangler for my cousin. My 1st time doing this on a Chrysler product. Such a shame they engineered the oil switches in such a PITA location? Why Chrysler??? But we mechanics figure it out and this vid makes it so much easier. Mine has a CEL light of the oil press switch reading low. No oil leaks thankfully! Great Job again!!

peter sideris says:

I did mine and it took me about 3 and a half hours. This video is over done as the guy removed the vuel injectors and fuel rails. Why?? They are part of the bottom intake manifold, just disconnect the wires on the injectors and place the entire intake to the side. Its that simple and 30 minutes less time.

James Merkel says:

Earth will soon b like heaven my works either your hear to praise & glorify GOD7 or SON JESUS in heaven or your not either place ever again.

James Merkel says:

youtube was not allowed to sell any ads except what I allowed on ppl air & selfie sight, Youtube will b shut down cold forever & something new will take over, not 1 employees shall live on I will personally execute the lot of them. Rebel your damn NOW line damned & being killed off no exceptions MY GOD WILL B DONE FOREVER!

James Merkel says:

when there is more room under the hood of ppl jeep/truck u won't hve prts that if get broken or worn can't b easily serviced. Might not hve 70s Ford engine bay room but can do far better than this mini van stench fallen works. This engine is not new & it is still weak ass shit &

James Merkel says:

good lord this broken prt needs to b made out of aircraft marine grade aluminum or titanium so no 1 need take apart 1/3 of top side of engine to fix it ever again.

James Merkel says:

they need a special design step stoll 3 side so u can climb up & work from all 3 sides. & some kind of connecting bars on top to hold & lean on, that can b removed if in the way. Every make model will scale over & let u work it it much easier.

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