(Part 1) How To Fix A Honda Engine That Won’t Start

(Part 1) How To Fix A Honda Engine That Won’t Start

Small engine repair shops hate this video. www.pure-gas.org will help you locate gas stations with ethanol free gasoline.

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Finn Howard says:

Thank you so much I finally fixed my gocart

Jorge duarte says:

I'm going to do this when I get home with my GX engine thank you

Rpoke21 says:

Thanks, followed your instructions and it worked!! Much appreciated!

Don Juan72 says:

If you use Trufuel ( sold at hardware stores ) you'll never gonna have carburetor problems.

Fearless says:

Where is the link to non ethonal fuel, Im interested to see where the non ethanol stuff is near me anyway. Expensive stuff I bet…

Fearless says:

You dont need non-ethonal fuel to solve this. YES ethonal has made things more difficult, BUT old fuels would also still go stale and cause the same problem. A very inexpensive way to stop this is to add a fuel shut off valve onto the fuel line, that engine already has it built onto the carb. Close the valve and run the carb dry and your jets will never get gummed up by bad fuel. Most engines can have it installed or have it already. The other thing you can do if you cant add/close the fuel valve, is run the engine dry, lastly cant do that, add fuel stabil stabilizer to the fuel it keeps the gas from going bad for 24 to 36 months. You can throw it right in the engines tank, it only takes a bottle cap amount to do the job, mix it up shake the engine, run it a minute so the stabil fuel is in the fuel system and carb. Thats it no more clogged jets. If you dont plan to use the machine for two years drain the tank and fuel system. This isnt new, its been like this forever, decades before ethonal. Ethenol just speeds up the process its atracts water, water in fuel is what causes this mess. Servicing most float bowl carbs is very easy once yoi have done it a few times, now if your dealing with a diaphragm style carb their tougher, the small little ones on 2 cycle engines are some of the toughest. But now with aftermarket carbs you can get them as low as 10 bucks, lower at that price, order a new carb remove the old, bolt on the new, done. Unless its some real old engine where the carbs arent available life is made very simple. A carb for that engine you can get for 13 bucks with free economy shipping, the says of paying over 100 for a carb are over unless your looking for OEM now defunct Tecumseh. Also Tillitson designed most carbs in use today, now tillotson brand name carbs are pricey, but their engineering is in 75% of small engine carbs. I just purchased a Tillotson performance carb for a knock off, honda "clone" motor. They have larger jets so they run much better not as lean as a typical standard carb. It was 36 bucks its on my mini bike clone engine. So the days of letting this bring you down have passed, plus now their fooling with electronic fuel injection, which I think is a waste on most small engines, but it is the wave of the future, fuel injection will eliminate the carb and its problems 100% in the future……
The Tillotson carb for my clone is thecsame for a real Honda the carbs are the same. Knock off honda engines utilize the same type carb as a real honda, the brands may differ, but Tillotson is actually better than all of them. Tillotson has been making carbs for small engines since 1914 Their an American based and european based company.

Daniel S. says:

just about every honda GX series engines have the same type of carb build. so on that note if your gonna clean one out @lewie mcneely has a good point cutting torch tip cleaners work great especially if you spray if down with some carb cleaner and let it sit for a minute. but in my opinion if your going to clean one thats been sitting with fuel in it for awhile go ahead and pic up a carb rebuild kit. their cheaper then buying a new carb and it will help if some of the rubber grommets have started to break down. also while your in that deep go ahead and grab yourself a new throttle return spring and plop one of those on. check your spark plug maybe clean it up and your golden.

if your looking at picking up a piece of equipment like this i would suggest buying atleast one carb rebuild kit a bottle of carb cleaner and extra spark plug a extra air filter and some rope for the pull start. if you grab those items you should be golden. but if your not going to use it often make sure you put some fuel stabilizer in the tank to make sure your fuel doesnt turn into gel lol.
one last thing i strongly suggest. always this these engines, when you go to turn it off instead of just flicking the off switch cut the fuel off and let it burn the fuel in the carb and kill itself then flick that off switch. that will pervent fuel from gumming up in the carb if you accidently leave it for awhile and dont put fuel stabilizer in the tank.

you follow those steps and you should be set for a long time before you need to even consider buying extra parts. thanks for sticking around this long and reading my rambling lol

Terry Ward says:

Thank you good sir for your description. You saved me 2x 1hour trips to town and a $100 repair bill. I hope good karma comes your way.

Billy Smith says:

I was told by my shop it is cheaper to buy a new carb then to have the shop rebuild it .

walter King says:

you're going to put Karl Childers out of work

Mike Daugharty says:

last use before storeing it use aviation fuel or race fuel, drain carb . these gases take forever to go south many years. if used yearly no problems

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