How To Replace Rear Brakes & Rotors 2002-2011 Honda CRV

How To Replace Rear Brakes & Rotors 2002-2011 Honda CRV

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Nothing will be left out. Easy to follow step by step advice. Come along as I show you how to replace rear brakes and rotors on this 2006 Honda CRV.
Due to factors beyond the control of jimthecarguy, it cannot guarantee against unauthorized modifications of this information,. jimthecarguy assumes no liability for property damage or injury incurred as a result of any of the information contained in this video. jimthecarguy recommends safe practices when working with power tools, automotive lifts, lifting tools, jack stands, electrical equipment, chemicals, or any other tools or equipment seen or implied in this video. Due to factors beyond the control of jimthecarguy, no information contained in this video shall create any express or implied warranty or guarantee of any particular result. Any injury, damage or loss that may result from improper use of these tools, equipment, or the information contained in this video is the sole responsibility of the user and not jimthecarguy.

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Dakota LaBarr says:

I did my brakes and rotors recently had to use a 20lb sludge hammer to remove, I used enough anti seize to keep it from happening. My front end has new ones but when I press my brakes I can hear a clamping noice any idea.
My rotors get replaced every other year here in Pennsylvania

John-Michael Bellamy says:

Really great videos. Appreciate your experience and clear method to both the videos and the example.

Frank Howell says:

Excellent job explaining everything. Thanks so much!

Levi Dykstra says:

Super helpful thank you!

PvM Pepsihax says:

Thank you soooooo so much for going into detail about removing the rotor. Helped me alot now that i got stuck!

jhi1947 says:

Hell yea!!!

Oscar Blue says:

It would be helpful if you included the torque values for the bolts.

James Lund says:

No , I can’t see nothing. What is the torque for the bolts?

NathanFree84 says:

Video was very informative and well done! Only question I have: Are the rear calipers able to be pushed in or do they need to be turned in?

Glen McKelvey says:

Great video thanks .

Hal Giles says:

Great instruction, thanks. One thing that could have been helpful, but not mentioned: there are two THREADED holes in the rotors. Had I seen them, I would have screwed two bolts into them, and tightened them against the end of the axle, to push the rotors off. Not knowing that, I had to pound all around the drum. then tap one the edge of the rotor, while turning it, to overcome the rust and get it off.

hemtet says:

Excellent might have given a tiny bit more info on the type of grease used, I've bought high temp grease for slider pistons and red rubber for back of pads ok?

Jeff W says:

You said to torque the bracket bolts, but what is the torque spec? How many ft-lbs?

Frank Beck says:

Jim:
The pads I got went into a description of a "break in" procedure for new pads and rotors. Your thoughts? It described a series of stops, or more accurately slow downs, from 35 or 40, then more from a slower speed, then a drive around to cool down… I had never heard of this before???

Frank Beck says:

One of the best videos I've seen here. Clear instructions, list of tools, socket sizes, …, the works. Great site.

cody morsell says:

Thank you so much. Great video, very helpful

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