After making the initial diagnosis on this vehicle and determining it is in cylinder number two, it is time to pull the intake and have a look to see if we were right! UPDATE: Customer had me remove the heads and off to the machine shop they went. Machine shop reported back that ALL intake valves need to be replaced even though they would seal, they had slight bends to them when installed on valve grinder. -Enjoy!
Part 1: https://youtu.be/hFs91VXnEHY
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Eric – a question. So why is #2 the worst? Do you think that he mis-adjusted this one more than the others? A very interesting video and a bit of a puzzle. Thanks.
looks like a drivers side front crash. inner fender bent and hammered out, new battery and aluminum tube for intake, plastic intake won't fit now due to inner fender damage – all broken in crash. with all fasteners on engine being loose, wonder if the engine was damaged in the crash and it got a junkyard replacement engine ?
Sore one, a lot of work down the drain for the owner, but the times I have messed up are the lessons I remember the most, when fixing cars.
Looks like the customer was trying to give you a head start on your job by leaving things loose or disconnected.
Nothing wrong with being a shade tree brain surgeon, but some guys should leave things to the pros…
being that you went that far – curious what a diagnosis charge would be on something like that. My family owns an auto repair business, and we've been in business for almost 3 years. We would charge by the hour for that, but customers think its nuts for us to be charging for something like that, in that manner. Its quite frustrating because it takes real time that could be spent on actual work.
Even the hammer has a hammer side too!
Was the center plenum gasket missing when you pulled it apart?
DIY head job WITHOUT EXPERIENCE or SHOP MANUAL AND loose everything =DISASTER
-especially on INTERFERENCE engine !!
all because some dude did not want to verify timing marks, could not go see a video, (like Eric O's timing belt replacement video on the v6 honda) about the honda V6 and check to make sure what marks are timing marks. expensive lesson.
Id be gutted if i had done that…quite a labour intensive job only to have to do it twice…i always use plenty of white marks on the pulleys to make sure of realignment.
We shall see, if there’s a part three.
Why wouldn't you call the customer before you put it back together, just in case he gives you the job then you have a "head start"
did you get the job????!!!!!!!!! im pretty sure who ever did this DIY shouldn't touch that thing again. I know some people are handy, I work in electronics. I build tube amps and repair just about anything electronic and there are just some things no matter how handy you are that you should just leave to someone who deals with it on a daily basis. there is no substitute for practical experience.
Let us know here in the comments if you got this job!!!! or what happened!!!
Poor guy! I have to give him credit for trying. He won't make those mistakes again so at least he learned something. That doesn't look like and easy engine to work on so good for him. I'd love to see you get the job Eric but in a way I'm hoping the owner persists and does the job right himself. He deserves some sense of achievement after this disappointment.
You Dr.O are a master at work, good to see your diagnosis on this faulty repair. Hopefully the person who had tried this repair has learnt from your diagnosis 🙂
If you can do he can do it (almost) Still held in high regard your ability to describe. And Paramount your ability to describe with respect to others, especially to an audience of mechanical caliber. Loose and missing screws………………..
Owner if you want it done right let the MAN fix it.
Looks like the car has had a smash at some point? the mark on the inner wall behind the air intake looks damaged or rust.
No camera peek?
Nice diagnosis Eric. I liked an earlier video in which you fed down a borescope to look at a broken valve seat. I guess here the bent valve stem would have shown up as a inclined valve. As an side, I noted in Part 1 that the ‘calculated’ pressure based on the wps500 pressure transducer was in the order of 187 to 197lbs per square inch, which seemed a tad high. My thoughts were that on a 10:1 compression that 140 to 150 would have been expected. Is this due to dodgy calculation (unlikely) or over reading by the transducer or I have misunderstood engine basics.
I would be frustrated throughout the job. I mean you do not know what has been loosened or otherwise tampered with.
Takes twice the time. Penny wise pound foolish.
Ok I don’t feel like any time should have gone into that motor. Reman. Install hours. Warranty and done. Why even look at it?
Get the job, I want see the fix!