Car Fix DIY Videos

http://honda-tech.com/how-tos is the leading Honda Accord and Civic resource for technical DIY guides. The Honda Civic uses a hydraulic clutch system to engage the transmission into the gears.
When the clutch plate wears down, the system loses the pressure needed to engage the gears, turning the car into a really heavy paperweight. For the full step-by-step article, please visit: http://www.honda-tech.com/how-tos/a/honda-civic-how-to-replace-clutch-and-flywheel-374900

The replacement process is difficult, but doing it yourself saves time and generally costs half as much as a repair shop.

This difficult job takes four to six hours and costs from $300 to $400 dollars. A professional may charge from $500 to $850 dollars.

For this job, you’ll need a jack and jack stands, impact gun, breaker bar, ratchet, needle nose pliers, screwdrivers, pickle fork, clutch alignment tool, hammer, punch, metric socket set, socket extensions, funnel, oil drain pan, and torque wrenches.

Step One – Raise and secure the car and drain the transmission fluid

The quickest way to reach the clutch is from underneath the chassis. In order to do this, use a jack to raise the vehicle and a pair of jack stands to support the chassis in the air.
Make sure to loosen the lug nuts on the front wheels before lifting.
Also use this as an opportunity to drain the transmission fluid.

Step Two – Remove the front wheels and axle nut

First, remove both of the front wheels.

The axle nut will most likely be seized and require a nice breaker bar.
Place the 32 millimeter socket on the axle nut and break it loose.

Step Three – Loosen the lower ball joints

The hub is held in place with the lower and upper ball joint. Remove the lower ball joint by pulling out the cotter-pin and loosening the 17 millimeter castle nut.

Once the nut is off, grab the pickle fork and pry it out.

Now grab the hub assembly and completely pull it aside.

Step Four – Remove the axle

Using a screwdriver, wedge the axle out of the transmission. Do not worry about pulling the axle out all the way, just rest it on top of the strut fork.

Step Five – Remove the shift linkage

Disconnect the two shift rods from the transmission and focus on the cotter pin.
The best tactic to use on its removal requires using a hammer and punch to knock it out.

Step Six – Remove the Transmission Components

Remove the transmission mount, the starter and upper transmission bolts,
wire harness and clutch line brackets,
slave cylinder assembly, and speed sensor.

The rear transmission mount is held in by a 17mm bolt.

The starter has two 14mm bolts, a wire clip, and a 12mm cable nut.

The slave cylinder assembly is held in place by two 12mm bolts.

Step Seven- Lower the transmission

Place a piece of wood on top of a hydraulic jack and position it under the transmission. Remove the transmission top mount’s 17mm bolts.

Proceed to remove the front transmission mount by removing the three 17 millimeter bolts and two 14 millimeter bolts.
Remove the final 19mm mount bolt located behind the transmission.

Once done, loosen all the bolts that connect the transmission housing to the engine.
Use a small pry bar and separate the engine and transmission housing, then safely lower the complete assembly.

Step Eight – Remove the clutch and flywheel

Loosen the six 12-point 10 millimeter bolts that mount the pressure plate to the flywheel.
Then, loosen the six 12-point 17 millimeter bolts that mount the flywheel to the engine.

Pro Tip
When removing the flywheel bolts, it is best to use an impact gun as the flywheel itself will lean, making the removal more difficult than it needs to be.

Step Nine – Install the new flywheel

Grab the pilot bearing and use a hammer and socket to press it into the new flywheel.
Once it’s flush, re-install the flywheel onto the engine and torque down the mounting bolts to 87 feet pounds.

Step Ten – Mount the clutch

Slide the alignment tool into the clutch disk and position it on top of the new flywheel.
Take the pressure plate and mount it on top of the clutch plate. Position the pressure plate so the three studs on the flywheel are visible.
Once fitted, tighten the pressure plate bolts to 19 feet pounds using a criss-cross pattern.
When tightening, remove the clutch alignment tool and replace the throwout bearing found inside the transmission housing.

Step Eleven – Mount the transmission and components

With the clutch and flywheel installed, raise the transmission and align the splines so it correlates with the ones inside the engine.
Mate the transmission and engine block together and tighten the mounting bolts.

Replace and reconnect the components you removed in Step 6.
Be sure to torque the balljoints to 47 feet pounds,

and axle nut to 134 feet pounds before reinstalling the wheels.