DIY Replacing Front Brakes 98 GMC Jimmy

DIY Replacing Front Brakes 98 GMC Jimmy

Just a quick video showing how easy it is to replace brake pads on a Jimmy or most any vehicle really. Blazer, S10, Sonoma, and Bravada are basically the sam…

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tweed187187 says:

what size wrench do i need for the rear calipers on a 1999 jimmy?

alexbore0612 says:

Its wrong yu can hhave a leak if yu dont open reservoir .!!

mford4mf says:

you are the man, you save me a lot of money and time

Jace G says:

Anything different about this job on the rear brakes?

jonzo22 says:

Hey thanks for the video, I just did this on my 2001 jimmy. Helped a lot. One thing i would say if you dont have a piece of wood like in the video what I used was one of the old brake pads i removed, it works good.

barewolffish says:

that was a great video i would just like to add that you can use your old brake pads in place of the 1×4 board for those who might not have a piece of wood laying around .

Gorden Chorney says:

Thank you for this vid. It helped a lot. I did the job on both tires in 1/2 hr. Saved me $100. 

Larry W says:

Thanks. No special tools required just metric sockets.

davva360 says:

Nice little video. I have to do my girlfriends 2000 Jimmy today and was wondering if I needed any special tools. Looks like the caliper bolts are just 18mm so it should be easy enough

Larry W says:

I apologize to you Mr Perfect! People learn visually and by doing. Im pretty sure the parts guys at the parts store will know what they are there to buy. Thanks for watching the video and taking the time to comment. Im not perfect but at least most people appreciate my helpful videos.

Larry W says:

Yes, that is a common C clamp. The block of wood was just a scrap I had laying around. I would guess it was 8 or 9″ long. It doesnt really matter just as long as it is long enough to cover both pistons in the caliper.

mrwilliams12099 says:

Is that a c clamp that you used to retract the caliper and how many inches do u think that block of wood was by chance?

Larry W says:

Yes, the pistons stayed retracted. When the job is complete and the tires re-installed, gently pump the brake pedal to re-seat the caliper pistons before driving the vehicle. Otherwise, the pedal will sink nearly to the floor while driving causing an unsafe stopping experience. Also, dont ever pump the pedal with the caliper off the rotor or the pistons may be pushed out of the caliper and fall out.

czarandmaeve says:

on a side note those bfg all terrains are awesome tires but there fackin expensive. and when you release that clamp that was depressing the pistons on the caliper did the pistons stay retracted?

Larry W says:

It sounds like the retainer clip for the emergency brake cable has broken or come loose. The E brake wont come on but the linking hardware will rattle when you hit bumps. Follow the E brake cable to the indie of the brake assembly, you’ll see where the clip is supposed to be. You can purchase a hardware kit to fix it. However, if the retainer hole has rusted, it may be too big to retain the clip. Use a washer ahead of it to fix that. Hope this helps.

Just DC says:

my 2000 jimmy’s left rear brakes r making a noise but its only when in motion… not a screech sound but more of a rattling and i noticed when i tug on the line coming off the breaks (back side) it stops makin the noise but only temporarily. Not a car tech but i found what the prob is… jw if anyone would know how to fix it? or if anyone can point me in the right direction, preferably online links. Thanks!

Guts Media Design says:

This is awesome. Keep up the good work. 

Larry W says:

First, make sure you are going the right way with the bolts to loosen. (see answer above) Use PB Blaster pentrating fluid and let it soak for 15 minutes or so.Using a 1/2″ drive ratchet and good socket, hold the socket firmly onto the bolt head and strike the ratchet handle sharply with a heavy hammer. It sounds like someone used an impact to tighten them at some point. Heat, even from a small Bernz-o-Matic torch will help a lot. Good luck.

Larry W says:

Follow the steering shaft down to the steering box. Remove the plastic two piece cover. You will see a swivel joint. Loosen and remove completely the pinch bolt from the swivel joint at the steering box. Slide up on the steering shaft and release it from the steering gearbox shaft. Push it aside or hold it out of the way to remove and replace the plug. DO NOT allow the steering wheel to turn while disconnected. Replace plug, put shaft back. Done.

Nate Williams says:

I tried just this afternoon to take those nuts off the caliper with lube and those nuts were sooo tight. I can’t get any leverage with a breaker bar to get some good strength on it to loosen the nut. any suggestions ?

nestor gonzalez says:

do you know what is the best way to remove the center plug on the drivers side on 98 GMC Jimmy??
the shaft that runs from the steering column to the steering box right in the way of the center plug.

Larry W says:

They are standard thread. Counter-clockwise to loosen. On the drivers side, you would be pushing down on the wrench and the passenger side you would be pulling up on the wrench. It might help to lay on a creeper and look at the caliper straight on instead of from the “outside” view.

meeko1589 says:

What direction do the bolts on the caliper and the caliper bracket spin to loosen

below60mph says:

Really appreciate this one. I’m about to be following your instruction.

Ethereal Angel says:

Thx for the video. Extremely helpful.

pyropunk007 says:

i did watch this first. all i have to use on the s10 was an allen wrench and a c-clamp. very simple

Larry W says:

Thanks for the comment. did you watch this video first before doing your brakes?
Did you go with the Ceramic Pads?
This really is an easy job that most people could do with basic hand tools. Once you do it the first time, you never take it to a garage again! LOL…

pyropunk007 says:

i just did my brakes on my 2000 s10. very similar set up and extremely easy to do. took about half hour for both. great video.

st0nefoxx says:

thanks for the vid

founditnow54 says:

nice video man. front brakes are a breeze once you get the hang of it. yeah but sometimes the cheaper rotors need to be resurfaced before you fit them on

1940films says:

Thx Larry! Good info.

Larry W says:

Resurfacing is usually only required it you let the pads wear too far and the rivets cut grooves into the rotor…or…if the rotor is warped from heat. (the brake pedal pulsates under braking)
I never resurface because new are so cheap and usually come with a 1 or 2 year warranty from your local parts store. Hard to beat that!
Thanks for the comment…

Larry W says:

No…the fluid gets pushed back up into the master cylinder. If the pads are really wore, you may actually push some fluid out the top of the master cylinder. Not a concern, just wipe it up so it doesn’t get on your paint.
Bleeding is usually only required when changing wheel cylinders or repairing/replacing brake lines. Anything that would cause air in the line. Pushing the caliper in simply pushes the fluid the opposite direction of normal is all.

Cannabisvorous says:

Do I have to bleed them after changing the pads?

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