Hey guys here again with a simple walkthrough on how to replace the infamous heater hose connector found on most 2000-2007 chevy silverado/tahoe gmc sierra/yukon/yukon xl and some cadillac models. This part is known to fail due to constant temperature changes and being that it is plastic. This job should take you about 30 minutes tops but please do take your time because it isn’t a race.
If you have any questions or concerns please feel free to leave a comment and don’t forget to subscribe and like this video! Thanks have a great day!
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There is no room to work ..the plastic release barely goes on ..and literally no way to pressure the release forward to unconnect the plastic keeper ..gotta tell ya ..very poor engineering by GM here ..very poor ..as getting the bigger connector off is the main issue ..
I have the same problem I went to a local parts store and they gave me part number 800-403 I tried it and it fits lose is 800 413 the right one did you experience any leaking? Thanks
Yep, this was a PITA. Facing the firewall from the front of the vehicle, the left side connector had broken right at the rubber hose. I wanted to replace both anyway and I found that removing the right side first made it easier. The right side came off somewhat easy but the left one I had to basically nibble off with a pair of small wire cutting and needle nose pliers. For some reason I didn't have anywhere near the space your vehicle had to maneuver my fingers. I get both connectors on and now the right one is dripping at the smaller aluminum line serving the rear. I think it may be due to it not being straight. I'm going to remove the right side again see if I can straighten the smaller line with a small section of slightly larger pipe. Story of my mechanical life…fix one problem and create another.
Thanks gentlemen for YouTube demo. Didn't turn out to be a CF. Things actually went smoother than anticipated.
Sir wished you had video taped doing it not after the fact.
Worst video all u did was talk thanks for wasting my timr
Replaced them once with the dorman. One month later the rear aid connector is leaking again.
When you install the new part, do you just push it on? Do you take the inner piece out first?
You didn't put nothing to see How you fix it. The talking doesn't do it
Are you in a library why you talking so low we can’t hear you
You replaced the black Tee with a white Tee? They have different size ports inside of them, and perhaps should be replaced with the correct one to avoid heat distribution issues.
I have a leak on the bottom one will it cause my truck to over heat?
Just seen your vid very informative thought it was gonna be a big job or had to take it to the shop saved me a lot of stress and money Thank you
THANK YOU SIR YOU HELPED ME OUT GOOD GLESS YOU
What size are the two rubber heater hoses and. Clips
Can I bypass the heater hoses? If so how? Cuase I never use the heater plus I'm only asking because of the T connector. Is it the same as all others just cut and bypass,
Will u lose any coolant/refrigerant when doing this
Part numbers for all the quick disconnects. On both lines
Stupid question. I removed one of the washer to fit on the left side. Now it finally snapped. But it has some play, as far as it can rotate a full circle and pulling back and forward
Mine leaking from small metal line
Mine is leaking at metal line on the black one just wondering how to fix replaced both tees
I've been smelling antifreeze for a week now around my 2006 suburban, I finally pinpoint the problem to this heater hose connector. Thanks for the info!!
Fucking white plastic piece of shit!!!!
I was working on my truck with the truck running making sure it idle correctly and that white piece of shit broke splashing hot coolant on my face. Now I got to replace.
Hey curious does it matter where the two hoses connect at water pump back to heater core, out of the two hoses which hose goes where? Left hose on heater core connects to which fitting on water pump, the one closest to radiator or the one closer to firewall??? Thx for video…