1998 GMC K1500 Upper and Lower Ball Joint Replacement

1998 GMC K1500 Upper and Lower Ball Joint Replacement

1998 GMC K1500 Upper and Lower Ball Joint Replacement.

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MRrwmac says:

Good work which I’m sure you were glad to have done and get the
satisfaction of knowing you did it so it was done right! When you were
popping those rivers, how did you know I had my safety glasses on top of my
head rather than over my eyes while sitting here watching on my iPhone?
Weird how the grunts always seem to help us guys somehow. Even in different
countries, the grunts are there just in a different language. I myself try
smooth talking the bolts/nuts to break free. If that doesn’t work I curse
at them thinking I can scare them to move. Your persuader works better.
Thanks for sharing. Bet it rides smooth and chatter free now.

bain5872 says:

A job I’ve never done. I’ve never wanted to either. It’s a pain….! You
did a good job..! I would like to add this…. I had a vehicle that I
replaced the CV axles, short driver side, three times, thought it was bad
luck. I bought them for new at advance auto. They honored their warranty
all 4 times however, they would last about a year, each time. I really got
tired of it so, I purchased a set from NAPA for almost double the price. I
now have over 24000 miles and 2 years. Still rolling. I wanted to let
others know what they get in the way of cheaper auto supply chains.
Undoubtedly, these were rebuilds instead of newly manufactured parts. I
enjoyed watching….Thanks for the viewing! 

aode06 says:

good work, next time the easier way to do it, is leave the knuckle in place
for vibration efforts,grind the face of the rivets off(the heal loosens em
up inside),drill halfway through the rivet, then use the pointed or blunt
chisel, they come out very fast this way.

pjsalchemy says:

Nice video G. Looked to me those were OEM BJ’s in there which meant you
got 200K out of them on a 4×4 to boot…PDG! Two surprises though…the
round bar/tubular¿ upper A and changing the Pitman. Think I have only
changed about 4 pitmans in all the FE work I’ve done and the RB/Tube upper
A, seems a bit cheesy to me for a 4×4. Never did like pickle forks much,
only when necessary (mainly on beat to death tie rod ends) but used a 2lb
short handle sledge…One well placed wack usually did it. One minor point
I learned early on under wheel wells…Only use box ends/sockets and pull,
not push…just noticed and began to wince…Lol ~¿@ Thanks for sharing
your good work!! PJ

Backyard Woodworking says:

Good work 4 wheel drive is a pain over two wheel drive.

Lee Hill says:

Nice work.You said 89 not 98 at the beginning of video.I have the same
truck. I’ll be sure to refer to this video when the time comes. thanks

Sirus says:

Never heard of the 2 kicks off the right leg before, PMSL. Never knew about
drive on rack either. I have a cunning plan for one of them now. Where did
you get the lift?

Firewalker688 says:

Thank you for posting this. Congrats on a job well done. I was tempted to
give this a shot on my sons truck until I saw the specialty tool for
pressing them in/out. I thought it was a regular c clamp initially. Is
there any way around having to get that tool or is it a must? Looked hard
enough with the right tool.

The “two kicks” comment I haven’t heard but it painted a picture in my mind
as soon as you said it. Ha! Also some familiar comments about slipping off
the nut. I once punched an engine block just about as hard as I could… I
agree… All bad!

Thanks again for taking the time to share this even though it slowed you
down.

Take care!

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