GM Hydroboost Brake Booster Leak Repair

GM Hydroboost Brake Booster Leak Repair

Overview of resealing a leaking hydro brake booster on my 2004.5 GMC Sierra 3500 SLT with 6.6L LLY Duramax.

Parts:
Hydroboost Rebuild Kit – https://amzn.to/2Vg0V1c

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—–I assume no liability for property damage or injury incurred as a result of any of the information contained in this video. I recommend safe practices when working with power tools, automotive lifts, lifting tools, jack stands, electrical equipment, blunt instruments, chemicals, lubricants, or any other tools or equipment seen or implied in this video. Due to factors beyond my control, no information contained in this video shall create any express or implied warranty or guarantee of any particular result. Any injury, damage or loss that may result from improper use of these tools, equipment, or the information contained in this video is the sole responsibility of the user and not myself.—–

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Comments

James Phillips says:

Both my 95 GMC 3500 and my 04 yukonxl 2500 leak, both just work trucks.

Rick p says:

Awesome tutorial I wonder if my issue would be related as I have lost brake pedal pressure recently. Brakes & calipers are recent. However there has been leakage in & about the hydro boost

RodFam says:

Wait. He didnt have to bleed each brake?

JayinMI says:

My GF's dad's '03 2500HD Dmax has super squishy brakes. What are the symptoms for this? It doesn't seem to visibly leak fluid, and none of the lines leak brake fluid at the wheels or to the rear of the truck. So, it seems like an internal leak. And the power steering works fine.

Robert Pedroza says:

Thanks for the tutorial, learned a lot from this video and saved a lot of money doing it myself on my 99’ chevy suburban. Was able to split it open to replace the seals without removing it from the firewall. Seamed too complicated under the dash. Thanks again!

cw says:

Could you just remove brake master cyclinder and replace the seal on hydro booster without removing it from the truck without any major issues?

ladjkaoz says:

great vid… im just order the PS line pump to booster… but after watching your video I belive I have a bad boster… where did you got that seal kit… a rebuilt one is over 200s ouch… i may just rebuild it instead..

Michael Broussard says:

where did you purchase the rebuild kit?

paul garcia says:

I actually had to cut the shaft to get it out of the trucks firewall, n weld it back together with a coupling

paul garcia says:

People can figure out, how to remove parts, I want to WHY?,, IS this thing leaking!!! I did the seal replacement back 2016, it pisses me off I have to do it again

Greg says:

In the video, it is mentioned the top plunger needs to slide into a fork in the housing. Does anyone know what he is talking about or have a pic as I just slid the plunger into housing with no restrictions?

clark adkins says:

Anyone know if this rebuild kit will work for one that’s leaking from the rod inside the cab? I have fluid in my floorboard coming from the rod that connects to the pedal.

Jesse Ruiz says:

Is there a small bearing or "bb" as a check valve next to the small piston? I saw another video but the valve is different on my truck. 05. 6.6

Jonathan Hensley says:

The four bolts on the inside are a bitch to get to on my truck. Couldn't you do this without removing it?

Art Of War Industries says:

Just finished this repair after watching the video. Very well done.

Tom Henderson says:

Sweet. I looked hard and long for a unit under $700 for a 79 Chevy and found out they don't even rebuild it anymore. I never would have tried and had success with a seal kit without this video. Thanks.

Jam Chanic says:

Can this cause my 03 Chevy 3500 to have air in the brake lines? No matter how much time I bleed it the pedal soft…

mac g says:

Nice video, where did you buy the rebuild seal kit? If you don't mind me asking

Crankbait says:

Can you please tell me about the Hydro Boost repair you did back in 2018. Which direction does the little yellow plastic cone go in and does the little round check valve with the 3 little holes face inward or out toward you when installing. Any help would greatly be appreciated. Thank you.

kim wade says:

Tip: use the impact to begin with

Paul Howell says:

Do yourself a favor and get a 3/8" drive impact 15 mm deep well wobble socket ($20) and couple it to a 12" 3/8" drive extension. This and an impact is all you need to get the 4 nuts off the inside of the firewall. (If not already, get a cordless impact. You'll be surprised how much you use it. Plus, it busts off lug nuts and other high torque nuts with ease.)
I replaced the seal with the hydro boost still mounted to the firewall. I was so proud of myself, but going back together, gravity was not on my side and I broke the rod that is internal of the booster. So, don't do that! I ended up having to replace the hydro boost, because that rod I broke is not sold separately. $200 lesson I thought I'd share.
Using the tools I mentioned above, you can have it out in 15 minutes, if not sooner. Then you can stand it up on its end to reassemble it. That part is a piece of cake. PS, you will need a normal size flat tip screwdriver to pop the metal keeper off the main rod that connects to the brake pedal. You can rotate that metal keeper with your finger tips so you can get the screwdriver in it. Then just rotate the screwdriver to flex the metal keeper.

Randys FiftySevenChevy says:

I need to do this on my Silverado and my knuckles are already bleeding

R Shackelford says:

I cannot get out of park after doing this. What is happening?

Chris Partaka says:

Great video sir!

R Shackelford says:

What kind of kit and where can I get this from. All parts stores say they dont carry it.

Brian Young says:

I have 6.0 gas

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