Cheap Fix: DIY EBCM Repair – Fix Brake and ABS Lights (C0265, C0241, C0251, C0252, C0245)

Cheap Fix: DIY EBCM Repair – Fix Brake and ABS Lights (C0265, C0241, C0251, C0252, C0245)

This time on Chaos Garage, we reflow some solder joints in the Electronic Brake Control Module on my 2000 Chevrolet Silverado truck. I am hoping this will fix the intermittent brake and ABS lights as well as get rid of our ABS codes: C0265, C0241, C0251, C0252, & C0245. On this Silverado the EBCM is located under the driver’s side door on the frame rail. Some other GM vehicles, it is located in the engine bay and a lot easier to access.

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Jim N says:

Fixed a 2000 Silverado that was showing these same issues. Could not get the controller off so had to remove the entire ABS unit. Got the rusted screws out and eventually got to the board. My solder joints looked fine but under a microscope they were all cracked on the bigger pins. I reflowed all the joints with good Tin/Lead content solder and no more code! Thanks as this fixed the issue.

D G says:

NICE!…and you hope came up true, along reattach-ground wires to the chasis. I like your clear explanation, Thanks

John M. says:

I am having trouble separating the two halves. I removed all 6 T8 allen bolts and have cut the silicone several times with a razor. Still can't separate the two halves….

James Glover says:

Thanks man that was a very good video

salih taylor says:

I have a 2000 GMC Safari with the same issue lights keep coming on, took it to get serviced was told that I need a new on and that a dealer would have to program it.

carapace shock says:

I gotta do this to my trailblazer. Brake/abs light. When its super cold outside it will not come on (indicating bad solder joints since the board does not heat up in -15 degree weather causing the solder joints to seperate) When its hot out, almost instantly.

But dumb me put it off for too long and now its cold in MN, We have some decent weather so I might crawl under there tomorrow and try to pull it. I hope the t-20 are not rusted to hell or its waiting until next year.

Charles Lease says:

The modules are not that expensive you could get them less than $80 on If you buy just the module you will get it cheap and you can get a AC Delco but if you buy that module in pump that’s where it cost 600 $800-$1000 when you buy the whole assembly you don’t need the whole assembly or you take the GM and they will do the recall for freeDo the research online cut the middleman out and you won’t pay as much

Crozbyguy says:

I know it's been a few years, but do you know which wire is the 12v. out to the break lights? I bought a trailer brake system and the wire loom that is tucked under the dash wasn't installed correctly because the one wire that is supposed to be linked to the brake pedal switch is dead, so I need an alternate signal from the brake pedal that's 12v. Urrrrgg!

Al Robinson says:

Thanks dude

Honaker Maintenance says:

Curious what you were using to display the info on your phone? Thank you.

dreamrealitysyndrome says:

This is irrelevant, but can anyone tell me what is the intro track used at the beginning of the video? I can't find any info on it myself, and it sounds dope! Sorta reminds me of old school Korn/Staind

Tim Delaney says:

Would this fix C0266 code on 2003 S-10

Mike Suhar says:

I have a 2003 GMC Safari, AWD. First ABS problem I had was the front right speed sensor. Replaced it and the problem went away for a couple of years before returning. It was obvious then that the hub was going bad and affecting the sensor. Replaced the hub but sometimes an intermittent ABS/Brake light would appear. I wanted to check the solder joints but it was impossible to get the ABS module off without removing the entire unit. Rust was so bad the screws holding the electronic module were wasted. I gave up on that idea temporarily. Recently, a front brake line ruptured. Being in Ohio the rust is bad. Brake lines in very bad shape so I decided to replace them all. Since the lines were all removed I took the ABS module off the vehicle. When I got to the part of removing the small screws holding the top metal cover I discovered there were not any! Apparently they stopped installing the screws and just let the seal around the lid hold the cover on. I am in process of doing this work now. Have not actually removed the metal cover at the time of this comment. Will do so later today. By the way, GM has had solder joint problems before. Had a '98 Bravada. The windshield wiper module had the same problem. In that case the connector, which had rectangular pins were soldered to the PCB in large round holes flooded with solder. Over time the solder would develop cracks and become intermittent.

C5GrapeApe says:

Thanks for the explanation video. My '01 Silverado just started doing this. I'll check the ground first though.

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