No Crank, new starter, how to troubleshoot, any car! (2011 Ford Taurus)

No Crank, new starter, how to troubleshoot, any car! (2011 Ford Taurus)

As with my other no crank videos, the starting system tests shown in this video can be applied to any car! Knowing how to do voltage drop testing is the key.

Related videos
– No crank, good starter, how to troubleshoot, any car! (Hyundai)
https://youtu.be/oo1SRIFIkhs
– Engine does not crank (seized alternator) – Mini Cooper
https://youtu.be/4YWCKzpbgb0
– Multimeter basics, voltage and resistance tests (a free SD Premium video)
https://youtu.be/w0PpLTnKKZg

Playlist
Starting, Charging and Battery system problems
– https://www.youtube.com/playlist?list=PLAFYVCyenqcpZM-kQg5MUX0OvrIPSirz5

Where to get the tools I use:
https://www.amazon.com/shop/scannerdanner
https://www.scannerdanner.com/tools.html

For more information on this topic, I have written a “field manual” called Engine Performance Diagnostics which is available at www.scannerdanner.com as an eBook or paper book.
Want even more diagnostic training? Whether you are a DIY trying to fix your own car, someone looking to become an auto technician, or a current auto technician that wants to get more into diagnostics, subscribe to ScannerDanner Premium https://www.scannerdanner.com/join-scannerdanner-premium.html There is a 14 day free trial.
On ScannerDanner Premium I will bring you right into my classroom at Rosedale Technical College. You will find page for page lectures taken right from my book as well as exclusive classroom type case studies. What is so special about these classroom case studies? I pull live problem vehicles directly into my classroom and we troubleshoot them in real time, using and applying the theory and testing procedures we learn during the classroom lectures. There is no better on-line training of how to troubleshoot automotive electrical and electronics systems anywhere!

Disclaimer:
Due to factors beyond the control of ScannerDanner LLC, it cannot guarantee against unauthorized modifications of this information, or improper use of this information. ScannerDanner LLC assumes no liability for property damage or injury incurred as a result of any of the information contained in this video. ScannerDanner LLC recommends safe practices when working with power tools, automotive lifts, lifting tools, jack stands, electrical equipment, blunt instruments, chemicals, lubricants, or any other tools or equipment seen or implied in this video. Due to factors beyond the control of ScannerDanner LLC, no information contained in this video shall create any express or implied warranty or guarantee of any particular result. Any injury, damage or loss that may result from improper use of these tools, equipment, or the information contained in this video is the sole responsibility of the user and not ScannerDanner LLC.

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Comments

Brandon F says:

Scannerdanner.com for any Techs watching this that arent happy with where they are at in diagnosing, understanding circuit design, DTCs, driveability, whatever…Subscribe to the premium part of his website, watch every video he has to offer. He has 33 different categories, each containing several hours of content pertaining to almost every single freakin thing youll need to know to ultimately become a certified badass. Might take you 2 months to watch all of them if you work late, got kids, wives, whatever….which in turn will cost you $22 if you "took it and ran" so to speak. I've been subscribed for a little over 2 years…..2 years….aint even spent $300 with the man and the pay i receive because of where i am at in my career now, was something i always thought was unachievable. All because of his videos.

Mike 742 says:

Did he just say RAD hose lol? Just picking brother. Great video

Dankwa Daniel says:

Great job o…… We needed to be involved.

Hona Wikeepa says:

Thank you from New Zealand. Great video presentation.

Hugh van Zyl says:

Awesome. South Africa

Dashty Fryad says:

Hi brother thanks for the great videos you shear.

I've a ford torus here all keys were lost so I've add tow extra keys after clearing all keys 1st.

After add the 2keys the car just doesn't start I've full ignition lights on dash but still no cracks no start. I scanned the car after p1000 appeared.

david thomas says:

HEY SCANNER DANNER I ABSOLUTELY LOVE YOUR VIDEO MAN IV BEEN LOOKING FOR THIS INFORMATION EVERY ONE KEEPS ACTING LIKE THEY DONT KNOW WHERE IT IS IM LIKING SHARING AND SUBSCRIBING THANKS BUDDY REALLY HELPED ME TODAY BEST NEWS THANK YOU

Don Guillermo del Norte says:

Excellent video. All parts were great. Wish to one day make videos like this

Khan Iftikhar says:

Nice to see

jbeez says:

God I hate that design, starter right underneath a rad hose? Recipe for disaster

Mad Lib says:

Would this issue cause a main 120 amp fusible link to blow on the positive battery terminal? Or just lose the connection? I really want to get a good look at the cables on mine but all the dang cables from every which way are bundled together and then those huge bundles are wrapped together in that split loom stuff. It looks so nice, I don't wanna ruin it haha

Cbzwurks USA says:

I watched one of your videos yesterday. Very easy to understand instructions. I was also able to follow the details of each part of the no crank situation. Thank you, this is help me a great deal, I will be following more of your instructional help videos.

Bill Cahhherr says:

Where is ur shop. Im in the burgh and looking for a good trusted mechanic. Can bring a ton of work ur way

Ashlee Hill says:

Great video!! You have an insane amount of knowledge and insight when it comes to anything automotive. I came across this video while to research for my boyfriend, what was causing his 99' ranger xlt 4.0 4×4 truck not to crank or start. He replaced the starter and now everytime he tries to start The truck, it blows the 50Amp ignition fuse in the box under the hood. You can turn the KOEO and the fuse stays intact, dash lights radio everything has power like normal, but as soon as you put it in the crank position it pops. I have no experience with Ford, (I own a VW which is another electrical nightmare of its own.) I was hoping you may have some insight on this. He switched the relay for the starter and the heater blower motor (which are identical)and the same thing happened. Those 50Amp fuses aren't cheap and I think he has already bought all of them that the whole TWO parts stores in our little bitty town had in stock. Any advice you could give me to point me in the right direction would be greatly appreciated. I'm about to go crazy bc he's in such a bad mood bc he can't figure it out and get it fixed. He has already missed there days of work waiting on the starter to come and now this. Also I hooked my obd2 scanner to the truck it has no codes permanent or pending, but I did notice that the intake air temp was -40° while viewing the limited live data function(of course the engine wasn't running bc it wont start). Im not sure if The IAT is relavent to the problem, just trying to provide all the info that I can. The engine coolant temp was at 60°. I thank you in advance for any assistance you may be able to provide.

John Bartholomew says:

If he had the fluke 233 remote display multimeter he would not have to bother Pete to crank the engine

Nicolas Xu says:

you talk too much. It should be 2 min video

Frederick Forsyth says:

Had the same problem on a dodge that had those audio cable connectors on it .

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