How to replace the ball joints on a Ford E 250 without a press

How to replace the ball joints on a Ford E 250 without a press

In this video I will show you how to replace the ball joints on a 2003 Ford E 250(most Fords F and E are the same)without a press .The pressing is all by hand.

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oh yeah says:

I think you have done this before.  lol.  Very well done, and I thank you.  Now to do my 99 ford van.

rodney todd says:

Thanks Jim, my mech said he would give me a break and only charge me $350 per side to do this job. I'm mostly a oil change person. But with your video I believe I can actually do the ball joints also. Will let you know when I'm done. I watched several other videos and you are the BEST ON THIS.

Rodrigo Batista says:

Very good rks

oneyaker says:

And what about the CAMBER adjustment?

Jeffrey Kumjian says:

I was told it would cost $922 at a shop . Were do you get the parts from ?

leadweight guy says:

Jim, Love the videos. Could you please give me your opinion on how to proceed with a situation. My 2004 f250 ball and u joint replacement job is at a bit of a stand still. Tore it down, brought the knuckle and axle shafts to an ex mechanic I know, because he has a 20 ton Harbor freight shop press. He mostly used a hammer, bashed out the old ball joints (I already had removed the u joints). U joint turned out fine.
I did notice the upper ball joint protruded a very slight bit on one side in the knuckle, meaning you could feel with your finger on the underside of the joint and on the one side it is not exactly flush with the interior of the knuckle. I would say it protrudes no more than a thirty second or so.
I brought it home, installed the boots on the moog joints, (the bottom was unusually difficult to put on), greased the joints and hung the knuckle on the axle tube, by a few turns on the lower joints nut. I then inserted the camber sleeve on the top stud, torqued the bottom to 49 fp then the top to 67 and finally the bottom to 150. End result, very stiff movement on the knuckle. No tie rod attached, and it takes to hands to move it from the “stopped” position,(turned all the way). I am sure it is stiffer than when I did the other side.
I tried loosening the nuts completely, same stiffness. I redid the torque sequence, no change. Tried hammering the ears around where the joints seat no improvement. The fellow who installed into the knuckle came and took a look. He agreed the knuckle was stiffer than you would hope, but, he suggested
Putting it all together, as he believed they would loosen up before too long. I am not sure whether to try that, or remove the knuckle now, and redo with new joints. Pros and cons to either approach.

My question is which would you suggest? Does a knuckle become more sketchy by the time it is dealing with the pressing of a third set of ball joints? If I finish the install now, will a stiff knuckle action lead to other mechanical wear within a thousand miles or so, while I wait to see if they loosen up? Your input appreciated!

flatearthrandy says:

wow THANKS sir !! Love and Luke 21;36

Mark S says:

What about using a torch to heat up the area around the pressed in ball joint before hitting with the hammer?

MrMike Jenkins says:

I think this video is an excellent video to have loaded up on the cell phone to use as a reference while your doing the work.
You really covered everything well EXCEPT FOR the occasional hammer on tool SLIP and the OUCH+@%#! $$ followed by the throbbing for the next 3 hours..
You can tell you have been there before,, especially with the way you hit VERY Solid, Flat and Deliberate Perfect STRIKES with that shop hammer.. THIS AIN'T YOUR FIRST RODEO !!
Outstanding video.
I appreciate you sharing with us the benefit of your years of experience and expertise. .

B-O-B Bob says:

great video. thank you for this. but have only one question, what socket size did you use to put in and take out the ball joints.

daniel mckeon says:

Great video. Just picked up a 2005 Excursion 6.0 diesel 2wd that needs front end work I am about to tackle and this is the closest video I have found. Almost positive it is the same set up. Thanks for the knowledge.

Bar chrome says:

Just did this job yesterday. However, it took me about 10x as long. Great video, wish I'd watched this first!

Pedro Cordova says:

I went on ROCK AUTO to find ball joints. and nothing comes out. do they have a different name? Even Autozone online didnt have anything.

Filiberto Vargas says:

thank you sr.i think im moving to new jersey so you can teach me mechanic skills

John Vanderburgh says:

Thanx for the tip 😉

Robert Suelter says:

most Auto Zone, Advance Auto and Oreilly Auto (and many others) will have the ball joint press kit for rent.  Great video.  Now to replace my uppers and lowers on my '03 E150….

James Strawn says:

You're obviously a pro. One thing is very clear: "If you have a press, that is the way to go." 🙂 Thanks for taking the time to post this.

Eric Paulson says:

You're an ace! Fantastic video you made and thanks for sharing! I think I'll take my knuckles to the shop and pay someone to put them on the press. Isn't there some type of bushing at the upper ball joint that is used for alignment? That doesn't fall out or get replaced? Thanks again!

Steve 1961P. says:

The only thing I didn't catch was flushing the grease cups. It looked like they were still above the shoulder. Here in Florida this would end up washing out the grease with all our rain..

Shawn Dexter says:

Nice job well explained. Thanks!!

Charles Almond says:

Excellent video! Now I have to get started on a 1999 Ford F-350 2-wheel drive.

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