How to Replace Front Brakes 13-16 Ford F250

How to Replace Front Brakes 13-16 Ford F250

Buy Now!
New Brake Pads from 1AAuto.com http://1aau.to/ia/1ABPS03322

1A Auto shows you how to repair, install, fix, change or replace your own worn, squeaky, fading old brakes. This video is applicable to the 13, 14, 15, 16 Ford F250.

🔧 List of tools used:
• Flat Blade Screwdriver http://1aau.to/ou2/1AXAA00013
• Pry Bar http://1aau.to/obA/1AXAA00020
• 16mm Socket http://1aau.to/ora/1AXAA00015
• 21mm Socket http://1aau.to/oeG/1AXAA00043
• 22mm Socket http://1aau.to/oab/1AXAA00266
• 1/2 Inch Breaker Bar http://1aau.to/ocv/1AXAA00078
• Torque Wrench http://1aau.to/ogh/1AXAA00044
• Anti-Seize Grease
• Brake Parts Cleaner
• Bungee Cord
• Cloth Rags http://1aau.to/obI/1AXSS00035
• Paper Towels http://1aau.to/obI/1AXSS00035
• Floor Jack http://1aau.to/ofg/1AXAA00068
• Hammer http://1aau.to/ocG/1AXAA00091
• Jack Stands http://1aau.to/ofk/1AXAA00065
• Wire Brush http://1aau.to/oaF/1AXAA00079

For More Info visit us at http://1aau.to/h/S9/

⚠ DISCLAIMER:
While 1A Auto strives to make the information provided in this video as accurate as possible, it makes no claims, promises, or guarantees about the accuracy, completeness or applicability of the content. No information contained in this video shall create any expressed or implied warranty or guarantee of any particular result. All do-it-yourself projects entail some risk. It is the sole responsibility of the viewer to assume this risk. 1A Auto is not responsible or liable for any loss damage (including, but not limited to, actual, consequential, or punitive), liability, claim, or any other injury or cause related to or resulting from any information posted in this video.

50,649
Like
Save


Comments

1A Auto: Repair Tips & Secrets Only Mechanics Know says:

Watch the Video
Buy The Part at 1A Auto http://1aau.to/m/Visit-1AAuto
Do it Yourself
Save Money

Shane C Hostetler says:

Would be nice to have a lift.

Adrian Marcu says:

You installed new brakes shoes using the old clips….that’s a cheap job. New set of breaks come with new clips

Bill Martin says:

What was wrong with the existing rotor? couldn't it be turned?

Shannon Hogg says:

Jow doni do an adjustment ionthe brakes ihave no moneybfor parts and im mechsnically inclined have few tools ama girl andhabeaford and haveno money and imskidding sometimes to yhis is a good thingto watch imeither going to mechanics school or helicopter school imgonna study about th hatt too idontjimk ican do this imnot as strongasi used to be this my 165th car so i rhad afew and donrme it before imjust unsure of mysrlf my freind said they neede to be adjusted and no one will help me so imon my own

OddTimes says:

Are these specs also for a 2011 superduty?

Brayden G says:

This video was great. I just changed my brakes in my 2015 F250 by watching this video. Thank you!

Reel Tech says:

165 foot-pounds huh? That explains the 2-foot breaker bar.

For one, make sure your torque wrench measures to 165 ft lbs. In which case, a lot of cheap torque wrenches, do not measure that high. And some of those ones, from the horrible freight company. Might say 165 lb on them… But if they were really calibrated like that… You wouldn't be purchasing them at horrible Freight. Sometimes, those numbers are more of a marketing tool. Then a functioning tool. And I know, some technicians, are going to reach for the impact wench. But a couple of things to consider there is, what is the initial torque, your impact puts down? 650 foot pounds? My vintage Ingersoll, impact, puts down 900 foot pounds of reverse torque. And 650 foot pounds of forward torque. Turning your setting down to one, does not mean you decreased your torque on your impact wrench. Turning the setting down, means that, you want less resistance, when they lug nut bottoms out. Resistance, and torque, are not the same thing. A decent, impact wrench, runs the risk, of snapping those lug nuts right off. And if you're a technician, snapping lug nuts off, with your impact. You pay for that. Not the customer.

Path of Righteousness Ministries says:

Are those metal clips needed?

Eric Grose says:

You didn't show anything about the little retention clips. That's what I needed help with.

ladiges9 says:

Its a young john malkovich

white phosphorus says:

Now that's a wrench!

Ian Moone says:

Do you definitely find that pushing the caliper pistons back without cracking the bleed nipple, forcing brake fluid past the piston in the master cylinder into the reservoir, doesn’t trigger the ABS brakes sensor in the master cylinder, lighting up the ABS brakes warning light on the dash & requiring a scan tool connected to the OBD 2 port under the dash to re set the engine computer ABS code for the ABS warning light on the dash to go off?

Tim Heagarty says:

I'm surprised that your brake kit doesn't come with replacement hardware clips, bolts etc. Why reuse bolts at 166 ft #'s when manufacturer recommends replacement?

Peter Pants says:

Thank you for the video. I have a serious question. You pulled a rusted everything off. Then with the new rotor you wiped brake cleaner on it to take off the coating that prevents rust? Am I missing something or is that right?

bmbertges says:

Very nice video!!

Comments are disabled for this post.