How to- Change Spark Plugs on Ford 3 valve modular engines Autolite

How to- Change Spark Plugs on Ford 3 valve modular engines Autolite

See how to remove and replace the High Thread spark plugs used on these engines without breaking them. Autolite takes you through the steps needed to do this…

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john horton says:

6:11? How do you spin the engine with all the plugs removed if the plugs
being stuck is the problem?

Robert Gift says:

Can I stick a cotton rope into each cylinder to soak up extra carb cleaner
to prevent hydrolocking?
Ford says our VIN indicates Expedition made 12/07 Brown coil boots. 92k
miles.
Should I do this procedure?
Our Fordealer service supervisor recommends HT1 instead of Moroncraft spark
plugs!
Thank you.

malcomboy says:

My ford guy told that it had to be a hot engine, so that the spark plug
will expand and will be easier to take them out without breakage.

Lee Fincher says:

Just did this method in my f150 2007 with 90,000 miles on them non broke
thank God when I got them out you can tell the carb cleaner soften the
carbon up a lot just take your time it pays off


malcomboy says:

Get Motorcraft spark plugs for Ford

Julian Jackson says:

Oh, I also used a vacuum hose with the smallest fitting I had. I then took
said fitting and taped a pen tube to the end. Sucked all the mess right
out, and the modified pen attachment reached all the way down to the plugs
to suck out the fallen dirt 

Julian Jackson says:

YES!!!! 8 for 8 and none broke. I sprayed a little SeaFoam carbon cleaner
on the plugs prior to cracking them lose) then let it soak over night. Then
I backed the plugs off just a bit and sprayed a bit more carbon cleaner and
let em soak for another hour. I used a beam style torque wrench throughout
the procedure until I felt the plugs were backed out enough for a ratchet
(basically after the plugs stopped creaking too much). Also, as I backed
the plugs out, I only backed them a few clicks (or creaks) at a time. I
didn’t want the friction heating them up causing them to expand. It took a
few hours this way, but it worked!!! I could see how much carbon the
cleaner loosened and ate away while letting them soak. I think the key here
is, back them out REAL slow (with a beam) and only a few clicks at a time.
My truck had 93,000 miles on the original plugs and COPs. I changed out the
COPs as well, and because I had the air box off, I decided to clean the MAF
sensor and throttle body while the plugs soaked. I thought at first the
tranny was bad (had studdering and bucking between 45- 55mph while slightly
accelerating) and the truck threw NO codes. Now she runs like a champ.
Thank you for this video. Now if you could shoot up a vid on flushing the
tranny. 

goldwing70 says:

Great video and advice! This method worked great. I just sprayed carb
cleaner as indicated. Let it soak overnight. Next day, I used the air
hose to blow out any cleaner left in there, then started to removed the
plugs. The plugs all required somewhat more than 45 ft/lbs of torque. No
impact used. Just turn the wrench slowly, working it like you might do
with a tap for making threads. No broken plugs on my job!

B Werry says:

not to sound like a smart ass but I do tune-ups on these all the time
rarely break any i think maybe 1 plug in my last 6 3v tune ups. keep in
mind 08 model year check coil boots if brown your ok they are different
plugs dont get stuck. Ford pays us 3.0 hours for a tune up 0.8 per broken
plug lisle tools porecilen pusher tool works great good price too like 50
$ i do a tune up in 45mins with a broken plug.
-tools youll need 9/16 spark plug sockete prefer one with a universal end ,
3/8 imapct gun,7mm universal (use eletrical tape on joint),10mm socket ,
3/8 rachet,blow gun, di-electric grease, pad to lay on if working on truck
or suv ,and 10and3 inch 1/4 inch extensions, 5,8,1,,3 3/8 set everything
out time is a factor for me. apply anti-seize to sp. blow motor off and
around coils wear glasses. remove all coil bolts i use my 7mm with long ext
and a electric impact driver with a 1/4 a bit in the uni 7mm makes it so
you can get them all i place on cowling between vents like like a bolt rack
. start engine let idle 10 mins shut off let rest 10 your looking for warm
motor not hot like 120-150 is perfect i let run and cool as i set up tools
.remove batt neg ,pcm connectors(small flathead) pick under white con pull
lift up pull lever back remove 3-4 pcm bolt 10mm , pcm on cowling remove
pcm bracket 3 10mm remove coils on cowling lay out in order each bank i
examine each for signs of overheating found on boot or water intrusion from
washing engine or heater hose leak look for dried coolant disconnect vlave
cover breather tube they vary and evap vapor valve either slide off bracket
or disconnect hoses(blow of well add penetrating oil if stuck) push in clip
with small pick/flathead twist/pull ,blow out sp well on both banks front
to back then again on bank 1 remove plugs with impact and long ext the fast
force/impact breaks plugs loose come right out im able to get my gun to get
all out hence the wobble sp socket i also use wobble ext after all out
connect pcm and batt and crack motor over to blow out any chips of ceramic
that may have fallen off i disable fuel as to not wash rings. plugs in
di-grease coils on primary and secondary not too much or con wont snap in
place.start all coil bolts then zip down with gun.start engine rev to 2500
RPM for 30 secs to 1 min move to next job.
if you break one it was going to happen anyways. soaking em and the slow
turn youll break alot more think about what your doing twisting ceramic
stuck in steell sleeve stuck aluminum head torques gonna crack the ceramic
first especially with a dead cold motor WTF lets just make it tighter! i
like to rec a induction service prior as it helps to break up carbon IVE
NEVER BROKEN A PLUG when ive done this and i NEVER REPEAT NEVER DAMAGED
THREADS over 50 3v tune ups

andrewquallz says:

ive done this to about 5 triton 3v trucks. drove the hell outta it bring it
in and slam’em with an impact. only break them when i tried to use a
ratchet. JUST MY EXPERIENCE!!! —master certified tech

cadzillals6 says:

Yes we do, just look for the box with the orange stripe saying High
Strength Steel.

MrChindow says:

i let my plugs sit in fluid for a week, still had 3 break and always in the
back where the engine gets the warmest under the firewall

hey says:

Jay is ford the only engine mfg that uses this type of plug and style
causing this issue?

ferny flores says:

thanks for the info friends at autolite.. =) z flores..

cadzillals6 says:

@toob247 Better lucky than good. This is not the recommended procedure and
usually would result in many broken plugs.

cadzillals6 says:

Autolite has been making “unbreakable” spark plugs for this engine for over
two years. They are the correct design and heat range for this engine, the
Champions are not.

Necrosadism says:

Fucking God SEND. I feel way more confident to tackle this nightmare.

dmelendez96250 says:

Would a shop vac with a rigged hose work instead of a blow gun? I don’t
have a air compresor

atwageman says:

I use Kroil. Works every time.

cadzillals6 says:

They are all the new design, it has an orange stripe on the box that says
HSS for “High Strength Steel”.

1JDCOKE says:

I heard Champion spark plugs have a plug for these motors that will not
break apart when removing, why can’t auto-lite make these spark plugs.

Robert Gift says:

What carbon solvent should I buy?

TheCabinetmaster says:

Jay, thank you for your video, it helps tremendously. I do ask one thing of
you, when you are replying to a comment, click on the “Reply” button next
to the person’s comment that you are replying to, & then write your reply,
it will give the rest of us a “show comment” feature & we can then see what
the question was that you are replying to. without having to search through
all of the comments. It will also email the poster of the question that
they have received a reply to their post. Thanks

1JDCOKE says:

Thanks, was not aware of this, will have to get mine changed soon, is it a
certain type or all the plugs have the new unbreakable design. Also heard
Champion does have miss firing issues.

Tray Dizzo says:

Thanks…really helped

cadzillals6 says:

Sure, anything to clear out the well the plug sits down insise of

MrMarquitojr says:

I dit it thanks now after I install all the plugs I end up with a code
saying cylinder #1 mis fire and code p0351 help what can I do to fix this
problem

cadzillals6 says:

Toob, meant the lucky comment for the other guy sorry. Your engine uses
conventional spark plugs and does not have issues like this one.

no1but24 says:

Why do Engineers do this stuff? Is everything they do an after thought?
Ford Dealer wants $560.00 to start and could be up to $900.00 just to
install spark plugs

justthebestt says:

Awesome information! Thank you!

Frank Kreuger says:

Excellent video & info. I knew this was’t an easy job Thank’s In a
mechanics world there is learning every day & this video proves this . As
one time this was a simple job. I am a great believer in Anti-seize
compounds.

Reaver101 says:

Champion plugs in anything but Mopar will lead to misfires quickly. I’ve
had vehicles towed in for no-starts because of those plugs. Works DAMN good
in Mopars though

ShopforCFcom says:

Air ratchet to the plugs? Who in their right mind does that?

cadzillals6 says:

Aleia, You need a 5/8 size spark plug socket. They only come in 13/16ths,
5/8ths and the very uncommon 9/16ths. If you ask for one at the auto parts
store, they will be able to help

ROBERTO GONZALEZ says:

a car with 50k have a rust problem?

MrMarquitojr says:

thanks for the response I think I got it defective spark plug thanks again
your video was real helpful

Evol Villain RC says:

So pissed at ford for this problem. Replacing plugs should NOT be this hard.

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