+FordTechMakuloco The link you pasted in you link. Can it work for both
left and right front????? Also want to know if this will work for the right
back side. I need to change 3 of them
Those saying that the Escape is poor quality because it’s still rather new
and the stabilizer links shouldn’t be worn out have no idea what they’re
talking about. Stabilizer links can wear out even on a 2015 from any brand
if you are putting a lot of miles on it on rough dirt roads, brick roads,
and pothole-riddled roads. If you keep replacing suspension parts and all
you do is drive on a smooth, well-maintained freeway then yes, you are
driving a poor quality vehicle.
Keep up the videos man I used this to replace my sway links the other day
was wondering if you could also make a starter replacement video as well
for the escape!! Keep it up man!
Please can you tell me what else could this part be called I’m trying to
find one on autozone so I can get a price comparison but apparently
stabilizer link is not what it’s called. And I’ve tries sway arm…sway
bar…I’m not that knowledgeable but can diy anything.
Most people don’t have lifts in their garage, so “doing it while up in the
air” is not an option. So while you have jackstands under the side you’re
changing, just jack up the knuckle (under the balljoint) until you’ve
equalled the load of the other side and the stabilizer link frees up.
Hello. I have a strange noise on a 2010 Escape. IT sounds like a quarter
panel or door panel is loose on the right side of the vehicle. if you are
in 4th gear and get the car to around 1200 RPMs, you can hear it clear as
day. loud buzz/hum metal buzzing against metal. it does it for a second
when you start the car too.. any common issues you might know of that I
can check? it doesn’t sound like a stabilizer bar, the car feels pretty
solid otherwise. I’ve only had the car a few weeks.
Thanks,
Lee
Link pins on my 08 mariner went bad at 22k miles. Dealer wanted a lot of
money to replace. I did it for less than 50 bucks and it was quick. Thing
that bothers me is my honda hasn’t had any need of parts replacements in 3
times that mileage. What does that say about ford/Mercury? Oh yeah had to
replace shock too cuz it was leaking. Plus my failed emissions for po446 at
26k. Won’t buy another Mercury. Ever
Love the videos. Great job man
You’re a rockstar! I’ve been trying to figure this noise out for almost
three years. I originally thought it was a strut or strut mount. I looked
at the sway bar link but it felt tight and wouldn’t rattle when I shook on
it. I eventually decided to replace the cheapest part (sway bar end link)
and it fixed the problem! The bolt would swivel in the sway bar link very
easily compared to the newer and redesigned (moog) sway bar link that I
bought.
I also want to thank you for the canister purge valve test you did. Mine
was failed. Part is on the way. I also cleaned and oiled the capless fuel
filler. Thanks a bunch dude!
I do on average at least 2 sets a day here in the quicklane! I find it
easier to unholy bolt both sides at the top then your able to swing the
sway bar up to gain room on the bottom. Great video sir!
That’s the noise I hear on the Fusion. It was always the passenger side I
would hear it over bumps, but starting to hear it on the driver side as
well.
I am A MOTORCRAFT GUY and thats what I just put back on my 03
focus. the factory links lasted me 160k befor one broke . I also
like the moog brand. stay away from the mevotech there boots brake
very easy my lasted just 15 months. befor the boot broke and all the
grease came out. the local shop that put them on told me well if you over
grease them the boots will brake open yeah no shit I think I know
that . btw I did not over grease them and he gets no business from me
either
Your videos have exposed how Ford dealers in the UK have managed to con
people in to paying for far more expensive repairs. Vauxhall garages follow
a similar pattern. The mechanics all have to make as much money as they can
out of each car. Faults are elongated, invented, made to sound worse or
caused by mechanics damaging cars – parts are thrown at the car and if
employees do not reach a set figure, they are sacked. Parts are not
stocked, so have to be ordered, so they offer to hire a car for your use!
You pay for it.
This is what made a lot of Vauxhall franchises go bankrupt. People go to
independent garages, who still must honour the warranty.
There are many consumer shows catching garages out.
I just changed those on my 2010 five days ago. I, at first, purchased the
cheap Chinese made house brand from the local parts store. They were touted
as an improved design over OEM. They bolted in but the heads of the ball
sockets were too large and rubbed on the inner fender well when I turned
the wheel. Took them back and got the Moog. They were also larger, but did
not interfere with steering. They are greaseable too.
some don’t have nut but a allen wrench through the end. don’t forget to put
red locktight on new threads. I used better quality after markets that have
metal bushings..
){kind=link}
+FordTechMakuloco The link you pasted in you link. Can it work for both
left and right front????? Also want to know if this will work for the right
back side. I need to change 3 of them
Those saying that the Escape is poor quality because it’s still rather new
and the stabilizer links shouldn’t be worn out have no idea what they’re
talking about. Stabilizer links can wear out even on a 2015 from any brand
if you are putting a lot of miles on it on rough dirt roads, brick roads,
and pothole-riddled roads. If you keep replacing suspension parts and all
you do is drive on a smooth, well-maintained freeway then yes, you are
driving a poor quality vehicle.
is this the same procedure as for the 2010 era mustangs? I believe there is
a tsb on those as well
Keep up the videos man I used this to replace my sway links the other day
was wondering if you could also make a starter replacement video as well
for the escape!! Keep it up man!
Please can you tell me what else could this part be called I’m trying to
find one on autozone so I can get a price comparison but apparently
stabilizer link is not what it’s called. And I’ve tries sway arm…sway
bar…I’m not that knowledgeable but can diy anything.
like those wrenches flex box end need to get me sum
Thanks mine was driving me crazy I could not figure where it was at I was
going to replace the struts
Replaced both of mine a few months ago, RF link has play in it again now.
Thank fuck for lifetime warranty parts!
Most people don’t have lifts in their garage, so “doing it while up in the
air” is not an option. So while you have jackstands under the side you’re
changing, just jack up the knuckle (under the balljoint) until you’ve
equalled the load of the other side and the stabilizer link frees up.
Hello. I have a strange noise on a 2010 Escape. IT sounds like a quarter
panel or door panel is loose on the right side of the vehicle. if you are
in 4th gear and get the car to around 1200 RPMs, you can hear it clear as
day. loud buzz/hum metal buzzing against metal. it does it for a second
when you start the car too.. any common issues you might know of that I
can check? it doesn’t sound like a stabilizer bar, the car feels pretty
solid otherwise. I’ve only had the car a few weeks.
Thanks,
Lee
Link pins on my 08 mariner went bad at 22k miles. Dealer wanted a lot of
money to replace. I did it for less than 50 bucks and it was quick. Thing
that bothers me is my honda hasn’t had any need of parts replacements in 3
times that mileage. What does that say about ford/Mercury? Oh yeah had to
replace shock too cuz it was leaking. Plus my failed emissions for po446 at
26k. Won’t buy another Mercury. Ever
Love the videos. Great job man
Are those Gear Wrench Wrenches ?
You’re a rockstar! I’ve been trying to figure this noise out for almost
three years. I originally thought it was a strut or strut mount. I looked
at the sway bar link but it felt tight and wouldn’t rattle when I shook on
it. I eventually decided to replace the cheapest part (sway bar end link)
and it fixed the problem! The bolt would swivel in the sway bar link very
easily compared to the newer and redesigned (moog) sway bar link that I
bought.
I also want to thank you for the canister purge valve test you did. Mine
was failed. Part is on the way. I also cleaned and oiled the capless fuel
filler. Thanks a bunch dude!
I do on average at least 2 sets a day here in the quicklane! I find it
easier to unholy bolt both sides at the top then your able to swing the
sway bar up to gain room on the bottom. Great video sir!
Great video…would this be the same for an ’06..I have that same
irritating noise
Thanks
That’s the noise I hear on the Fusion. It was always the passenger side I
would hear it over bumps, but starting to hear it on the driver side as
well.
I am A MOTORCRAFT GUY and thats what I just put back on my 03
focus. the factory links lasted me 160k befor one broke . I also
like the moog brand. stay away from the mevotech there boots brake
very easy my lasted just 15 months. befor the boot broke and all the
grease came out. the local shop that put them on told me well if you over
grease them the boots will brake open yeah no shit I think I know
that . btw I did not over grease them and he gets no business from me
either
Ugh undercoating, such a mess and a scam.
Your videos have exposed how Ford dealers in the UK have managed to con
people in to paying for far more expensive repairs. Vauxhall garages follow
a similar pattern. The mechanics all have to make as much money as they can
out of each car. Faults are elongated, invented, made to sound worse or
caused by mechanics damaging cars – parts are thrown at the car and if
employees do not reach a set figure, they are sacked. Parts are not
stocked, so have to be ordered, so they offer to hire a car for your use!
You pay for it.
This is what made a lot of Vauxhall franchises go bankrupt. People go to
independent garages, who still must honour the warranty.
There are many consumer shows catching garages out.
I just changed those on my 2010 five days ago. I, at first, purchased the
cheap Chinese made house brand from the local parts store. They were touted
as an improved design over OEM. They bolted in but the heads of the ball
sockets were too large and rubbed on the inner fender well when I turned
the wheel. Took them back and got the Moog. They were also larger, but did
not interfere with steering. They are greaseable too.
Great deal at $50 for the pair… Cheap fix for an irritating problem..
thanks
A 5 year old Ford and already needs a stabilizer link? Such a poor quality
built!
The fields look good over in Cat country. I’m guessing you shot that video
some time back.
some don’t have nut but a allen wrench through the end. don’t forget to put
red locktight on new threads. I used better quality after markets that have
metal bushings..
good
also your top strut / shock mount could be worn out seen that before.
this also applies to the 2002 ford taurus ,the same noise
Thank you for your time and effort in making these videos, you da man!
I’m looking at the corrosion that was falling as you took the nut off. I
use Lock-tite to be sure.