Ford 4.2L V6 Hydrolock and IMRC fix [1080 HD]

Ford 4.2L V6 Hydrolock and IMRC fix [1080 HD]

New intake manifold gaskets. Normally this runs about $900 due to the amount of time involved if you can find a trustworthy mechanic. It takes a LOT of clean…

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Jafromobile says:

If it makes you feel better, this was my first time doing it. I only look like I know what I’m doing because of the edits. 😉

Maybe that’s an exaggeration. I did have the service manual, the Haynes manual, and enough wits to already own all of the tools you saw here. I heard this was a common problem so I filmed it. I’m usually wrenching and filming an entirely different platform. This one’s my daily.

Once you follow the directions and see what’s on the inside, it’s not so scary is it?

ELtee555 says:

Great video. Mine sits hydrolocked right now and I was just considering my options. It looks like I might tackle this one. Thanks.

RMZyellow says:

Too bad Ford isn’t putting them in Van’s. Ford is putting a new I-5 diesel in the full size Connects though. I’ve heard down the line ford is going to quit the Econline and replace it with their full size Euopean Connect Van. Number one selling van in the EU for 40 + years..hope it does well in the US and takes back some market share from that !@#$ Mercedes Sprinter.

RMZyellow says:

The new Ford 3.7 V6 that replace the 4.2 V6 is unreal. It’s amazing how much power Ford is getting out of their new V6. The Essex 4.2 put’s out 202 HP at 4800 rpm & 252 lb ft 3400. The new 3.7 Duratec put’s out 302 Hp at 6500 & 376 lb ft at 4000 rpm. I work at a Ford dealer and own a 4.2 E-150 and was blown away when the first 3.7 F-150s came in.

Chad Williams says:

Haha yeah man. Through all the motors, trannys, crankcases ive rebuilt/restored/repaired. That’s some of the best stuff. Keep it up man. Love the videos. I recently Hydrolocked my 1990 Ford Ranger 2.3L I4. It’s not seized but something mechanically is blocking the full rotation. You can get a half turn and then *clunk* that’s it. I’m thinking bent rod or dropped valve. Any ideas?

Jafromobile says:

Carb cleaner… but yeah… that’s what it takes! 😀

Chad Williams says:

This man likes his brake cleaner. Haha 4:11 in case you’re wondering what the hell i’m talking about.

kfafnis says:

Dad had a 99 f150 just like this with 4.2, even the same color. I remember doing this repair quite well. It had low compression on the cylinder that had the leak from starting with fluid in the cylinder, but it still ran good with the low compression.

CSXRockford says:

also you need to change your oil before you start it back up, coolant in the oil will wipe out a set of bearing in no time flat. just use some cheap parts store oil , before you start it , run it till its hot and change it out while its hot and add your normal oil and filter.

CSXRockford says:

too bad the best rod isn’t that easy to fix.lol

Jafromobile says:

My truck IS a ’99. So I would say no. Not “fixed”.

This might look like a lot of work… and it does take a good bit of time… but parts are only about $50 to fix it. More if you want to thoroughly clean it. My truck now has 198,000 on it. ‘still the most inexpensive to maintain and most reliable vehicle I’ve ever owned.

joey3847 says:

I read some were that this problem was “fixed” in the 1999 F150’s (4.2L) Do you know if this is true or are the 1999 trucks with a 4.2 still susceptible to this frailer? Just bight and 1999 (198,000 kilometers) and I’m a little concerned.

ramairgto72 says:

Not being a dick about this but NEVER use a Tap to clean the threads, use a “Chase”, not sure if you intended to type that or if you use one as you seem to know what you doing. Great time laps video tho!

Jafromobile says:

They did change the intake manifolds a bit from one year to the next. A lot more so with the V6 Mustangs.
As far as I’m aware, the ’99 was the first year of this body style, a lot changed from the previous model, and mine even has an experimental transmission in it. It’s actually labeled that way with a warning on the pan. If you order the transmission filter for my year truck, you always get the wrong one. ‘have to mix-n-match with V8 parts. My early ’99 truck is a little weird.

Brandon Johnson says:

I would like to ask, why does your IMRC Actuator look alot different from the actuators that fit my 97 f150 4.2? im havin the same problem, but mine say there both stuck open, so in the morning im goin to try to tackle the situation.

Jafromobile says:

It’s a 1991 Dodge Colt GL hatchback. If you’re new to the channel, I’ve installed a 1992 AWD turbo eclipse drivetrain in it. I’m still working on it, but it will be around 500hp at the crank, and roughly 2300 lbs.

Mopar baby!

Thanks to your avatar, I’m plugging in Far Beyond Driven right now. RIP DBD!

jeepcollector91 says:

Great video. I am about to tackle the same job on my 2000 E-150 4.2L. I have an injector that is giving me trouble at certain RPM’s so while I replacing it I am going to go ahead and remove the lower intake as well to thoroughly clean it and to replace those gaskets. The F-150 looks like its harder to work on than the van. I can get to almost everything on the 4.2L from inside as long as I remove the passenger seat first.

watergate528 says:

Not many mechanics would take the time to clean out the threaded holes & bolts.
They just love the impacts & silicone.
Well done,double thumbs up!

jacob classified says:

wow! i wish i could of done that in 13 minuets.. it took me over 6 hours using hand tools to replace my gaskets… great video

Aaron Ouellette says:

I got stuck pulling off the IMRC on the left…. I was using 5/16… but I think a 8mm works better…. it got fuckin stripped and cant pull it out… now the problem is there is 1 bolt holding the lower intake on that I cant get to unless I pull the IMRC off. smh… I think im just going to cut the bracket and replace! good video thanks!

Joe Curtis says:

Thank you for this video , I had to replace my intake manifold on my 2001 f150 4.2l and i cant express how much this video helped me. Very detailed and excellent source of knowledge for a amateur home mechanic like myself.

Reno Cyr says:

I have a 98 F-150 with the same engine with 230,300 miles. If I have that issue at least I will know what had happened. Great video and a job well done!!

Jafromobile says:

For that comment to come from someone with that icon as an avatar, I am extremely grateful, and flattered!

Charlie Atkins says:

Great video, I like the attention to detail!

Ben Thompson says:

Thanks a lot for a great Video. i had this exact problem & with the help of your video was able to quite easy fix my sons truck! Kudos to you!

Aussietactical says:

nice vid
whats better the 7.3 or the 4.2

Devon Hendy says:

hey Jafromobile this was a great helpful video i complete this on my 98 f150 but my manifold way done it was leaking coolant right at the base of the press fitted pipe so i got one installed and truck started first try no issues ran a little rough so i shut down and restarted and it made some back fireing type sounds so i shut down again and started and i got a p118 code and now it wont start looked over everything any help? email devon.hendy@gmail.com

alowe21691 says:

I came across this video and watched it for grins and dont even own a Ford, but 2 thumbs up for JAFROMOBILE for a great “how to” video

Stupidwild596 says:

I need to do this to a Subaru wrx and don’t know where to start

jacob classified says:

i am having problems with the intake manifold runner stuck open bank 1 and 2 i have used a piece of tube and connected it to both runners and sucked on the tube both open and close normally… i traced the vacume line back to a solnoied “blue line” and have vacume from the solinoide to the runners . before it would hesitate when accelerating and throw you back in the seat.. it doesn’t do that any more it seems to be working fine, but the check engine light is on.. any one got any ideas?

dehsah says:

Excellent repair video, good details.People who haven’t done a repair like this should watch at least twice. The key to a successful repair is attention to every detail of diassembly and especially reassembly. Notice how he cleaned the intake mating surfaces with brake parts cleaner. This is very important. The torque (tightening) sequences are of utmost importance. Very well done!!

Jafromobile says:

Intake Manifold Runner Control. It’s an extra passageway in the intake that allows more air through under certain conditions. The result of the changing port velocity with this system is a greater amount of torque and smoother transition of torque levels at different engine rpm ranges. Some engines benefit from variable valve timing, while others can use simpler vacuum-actuated systems in the intakes like the 4.2L Ford. Think Mitsubishi Cyclone. That manifold is very similar to this system.

DualsMeatChevy94 says:

whats IMRC? great vid by the way

kdooamark85 says:

Cool thanks. I’m gana try to get back at it on sat. Ill keep u posted. Thanks again.

Jafromobile says:

Not a cracked head then… Definitely a problem with either the gaskets or a cracked intake manifold. Don’t bother checking with Ford for a new one, they’re around $800-$900. Pick one from a junked F-150 somewhere for under $50. But more than anything, try to find the crack or the source of the leak before throwing parts at it. It could be as simple as an eyelash fell on the gasket during assembly. I’ve seen that one first-hand because I’ve done it to myself before.

kdooamark85 says:

In every cylinder

kdooamark85 says:

Yes I did. I found that the torque sepcs on the head to block were off and that it did not have enough pressure to hold the coolant were it belongs.also the lifters were overtighten. The specs I found for the engine were incorrect. Now I’m looking and hoping I didn’t get any damage done to the piston. Can u think of any way to check the parts with the best results to better identified the problem? Thanks.

Jafromobile says:

It could possibly be a cracked intake manifold. When I first posted this video, someone complained about having this issue. Said he fixed it and ended up with the same problem. You may not find the crack without doing a dye penetrant test. If it’s not cracked, then something’s badly warped or a gasket isn’t straight. Cracked head could also cause it.

Do you have coolant in every cylinder, or just one or two?

kdooamark85 says:

I’m working on my truck as well and the starting problem sounds the same. However I took the job a bit further I had a bolt snap on the head. I fixed that and put everything back together. The engine turn on grate one time then the problem happened. But all gaskets are new and parts were cleaned any ideas. I have pic if u need to see them. Can u help?

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