Has your power window fallen down? How to repair, not replace broken cable bosses on the guides on a 2004, 2005, 2006, 2007 or 2008 Ford F-150, Explorer or E…
Has your power window fallen down? How to repair, not replace broken cable bosses on the guides on a 2004, 2005, 2006, 2007 or 2008 Ford F-150, Explorer or E…
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LOL. Glad you found a good usable bungee!
This was actually not the case with my ’05 expedition, only a few screws to
get the panel off and the speaker was not attached π It turned out that
somehow a bungee chord was in the door, and that is what knocked loose the
track rests for the window…. LOL At least I got a bungee chord out of it
all π
I have no idea. Probably 5″ or so.
What size are the door speakers in front doors?
LOL. I’ve never thought about it that way. I guess I think of it like
this… If you start with a junk part, you might as well try something to
fix it. If it fails, your part is still junk. If it’s successful, you’ve
saved a ton of dough!!! Thanks for checking it out.
When you know what you’re doing, what you did was effortless. When you’ve
never done it before what you just did was equal to neurosurgery. Not a
chance I could accomplish that.
LOL!!! Good luck man!
Awesome video! I just traded my 98 Ford Ranger regular cab for a 2006 Ford
F150 Fx4 4×4 and the window is down inside the door. Going to try this fix
tomorrow! … and in the mean time, DON’T LET YOUR HOT DOG STAND! =)
Hate to hear that… You might hop on-line and look at replacements. There
are folks out there making them now.
Well turns out the cable snapped π Oh well its up and secure now at least
Will have to go to Edmonton pick your part and see if I can get a second
hand one. Thanks for the video again!
I just took my GF Escape door apart and was a bit stumped! Thanks for the
video I’ll let you know how I make out! Cheers
Corey- I’m always happy when one of “us” figures out a solution like that.
I know the motor companies are nickle and diming these cars to death and
they want us to visit the repair shop every month, but like you said… The
engineers are smarter than that. It feels good to make something “better
than factory original.”
Greg, thanks for this video! Cost $0. On my 2009 Ford Escape a different
stupid plastic design. Instead of cables coming in at an angle they come
near each other along same line. I had to do it differently – inspired by
your method. I pushed a loop of solid steel wire (not cable) through hole
from back side, then around the existing cable, then secured it where it
wouldn’t interfere. IMHO the engineers could have made a steel bracket
connect cable ends to each other, reducing strain!
I have no intention of replacing the rivets Greg. I intend to use a metal
tek screw before a rivet. Just did a video myself and at the worst part of
the day because i feed wild parrots at around 4.00 pm and they were all
getting in on the act lol. But driving the remainder of the steel pop rivet
out makes the drilling easy. Will tag my video on to this as i think it
might help others.
Agreed. Those rivets are a pain, both to drill and replace.
And your vid was fine. Hate the way i have to drill out stupid rivets
though on the motor.
Nice fix with the cable repair and money saved.Most the other vids on power
window problems have been switches and power fails. Yours was exactly like
mine. Went to wind the window up and it suddenly dropped. Had the door
trims off but couldnt figure the problem. Will take it off again tomorrow
and remove the whole mechanism. I do have a spare EL ford and have already
removed the mechanism but i am sure i am going to find that it is the same
broken cable due to plastic failure.
No problem Gary. There is a LOT of pressure on the the cables, that’s for
sure. Glad you got it fixed. Kinda feels good to get one over on the parts
man.
Many, many thanks, Greg. Saved lots of money and now I know how to fix the
next one that breaks. Those speaker screws are probably 5.5 mm – a 7/32″
SAE is only two thousands oversize to 5.5 mm. I had a lot more trouble
tensioning the cable while reassembling than you did and finally had to use
a clamp arrangement to pull enough tension to get it all back in place.
Thanks, Greg! Just fixed mine using your instructions and it works great!
Instead of using the bent metal, I used a small machine screw between the
crimped end of the cable and the plastic opening so the screw head holds
the crimp from rolling out of U shaped cable notch and put a nut and flat
washer on the back side. That cheap plastic block has a pretty substantial
metal base inside if you can keep the cable end from rolling out. Thanks
Again!
Yeah, they tend to go one after another. It’s like they are on a timer.
I’m glad you were able to figure out a fix. Hell, that sounds better than
what I’ve been doing. You are right about the metal base… Why didn’t Ford
(or their supplier) just run the wire through that???
No problem. Thanks for checking it out.
Oh man. Be careful. Watching vids can be dangerous!!!!!!
Thanks John. I like it. Just don’t like having to repair it.
Thats a pretty sweet truck Greg. Thanks for the vid.
Meat’s not loafing….Is it OK to let my Beef goulash.?….LMAO….Good tip
mate…The cables mostly break down here.!
awsome video!!
i was with ya right up until i pulled my lower back and blew a left nut. ugg
good one man!
Its an OEM engineering vision. It traps the customer and prevents a
solution from anyone else except the OEM.
Great fix Greg!
Thanks Milo.
Thanks man.
hey greg–would a 2004 f-250 super duty have this set up as well??
i sum tymes fix stuff with a cement block…sum tymes it works out…sum
tymes not so good LOL
LOL. This little issue has affected tons of people. I looked online to see
how many other car builders use the same system and was amazed at the list.
American cars (Ford AND GM), Japanese cars, German cars… They all use the
same design. Sorta blew my mind. I thought it was Ford only.
Thanks Scott.
HOLY SHIT, AN AMERICAN USING METRIC WOW
good one..