How to Upgrade or Replace the Headlights in a Dodge Ram using Nilight Lights

How to upgrade the factory headlights in a third generation Dodge Ram using the custom lights from Nilight. My old headlights are faded. I did polish them in the past using the wet sanding with the compound method, however that’s not a permanent fix. I’m also not a huge fan of the chrome, so something which cuts back on this is an ideal upgrade for me. Here you can see the new replacements. These still maintain a chrome reflector which is needed however the surrounding area is a satin black. With my truck being a 2006, it was the only year available with the bottom orange light. Therefore the new lights will give the impression the truck is slightly newer. #dodgeram #nilight #mopar

Amazon headlight links:
USA: https://amzn.to/3zEUfyw
Canada: https://amzn.to/3P2eZWz

Nilight Website: https://www.nilight.com/

Website: http://4diyers.com
Patreon: https://www.patreon.com/4diyers
Facebook: https://www.facebook.com/4diyers
Twitter: https://twitter.com/4DIYers
Instagram: https://www.instagram.com/4diyers/
Tumblr: http://4diyers.tumblr.com
Pintrest: https://www.pinterest.com/4diyers/

Tools/Supplies Needed:
-10mm socket with ratchet
-3″ and 6″ extension
-tape measure
-phillips screwdriver
-electrical tape
-nylon trim tool

Procedure:
Open the hood, this is needed to access the fasteners behind the grill. Remove the two 10 mm bolts using a 3/8 drive ratchet with a 3 inch extension. On the inside of the fender will be a rubber cap that needs to be removed. A 3 inch extension can be used, however a 6 inch extension does make it easier. Using a nylon trim tool, gently pull out the headlight from the side of the fender to disconnect it.

Then twist out the headlight bulb, the signal light bulb, and the parking light bulb. These simply turn, then pull straight out.

The bottom parking light bulb will need to be capped off so it’s not affected by any moisture. Removing this bulb won’t cause any errors on the dash. The connector was cleaned and then electrical tape was wrapped around it so it’s protected from any moisture or dirt. After that the connector is then cable tied off in the background so it doesn’t interfere with anything.

First was installing the headlight bulb with the connector. This is simply pushed into place and then rotated clockwise to lock it in. I tried to reuse the old signal light bulb socket however I did find it doesn’t lock in as well. Therefore I was using the supplied sock instead. Two tangs need to be depressed on the electric connector to disconnect it from the socket, then pull it straight out. Install the bulb into the new socket, twist it into place, and then reconnect the electrical connector.

The new lights come supplied with clips at the top corners. If yours are still in good condition, these can be removed and you can reuse the factory versions. The light is then pushed into place. Ensure all the slots lineup and then clip it into place.

Start the fasteners by hand. I tightened the nut inside the fender well first. I did find the threaded stud is slightly longer so a deep socket is required instead. Once done, the rubber plug is then installed.

Tighten the two 10 mm bolts on the grill side then.

Finally the plastic protector can then be removed. I left this in place to ensure the lens wouldn’t get damaged during the installation.

Now onto the passenger side for additional angles. Repeat the same procedure.

You’ll need to find a level surface with a wall where you’re able to park the vehicle 25 feet away to get a proper reference point for the beams.

You can drive the vehicle up against the wall and take a reference point of where the beam is. The door I’m using here for a reference does have lines, and additional aid can be using tape to reference the top of the beam.

Now the vehicle is reversed back to 25 feet from the wall. The 25 foot mark is taken from the front of the headlight. The vehicle needs to be perpendicular to the wall. Turn off your fog lights.

Now the headlights can be adjusted, as you can see as I move the adjustment screw the beam pattern does move. The top of the brightest portion of the light line needs to be at the same level as the lightbulb within the headlight assembly. Clockwise goes up and counterclockwise goes down.

I typically like to go back to the wall and take a visual view as well.

Once done you can then check the high beam pattern. There is no adjustment for the high beams, the low beam and high beam assembly are in one.

Thank you to all those who watch my videos and support my content. Don’t forget to subscribe to my channel for future tutorial videos and like my video if you found it helpful. New videos are always being uploaded every week!

Car Fix DIY Videos