Car Fix DIY Videos

Video tutorial on how to replace the upper ball joint on a third generation #DodgeRam. The truck I am working with here is a 2006 1500 4×4 model and it has the pressed in version. Depending on the severity of the ball joint, you may noticed clunking when driving, wandering, irregular tire wear, and in this case I can use a pry bar to demonstrate the play in the joint while the truck is still on the ground. #howto

#OEMTOOLS dead blow hammer set: https://www.mobiledistributorsupply.com/3-piece-dead-blow-hammer-set-1

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Tools/Supplies Needed:
-21mm socket
-22mm socket
-deadblow hammer
-ball joint separator
-1/2″ drive ratchet
-johnson bar
-bal joint press
-new ball joint
-pliers
-jack and jack stands
-safety glasses

Procedure:
Elevate the vehicle, use a jack stand as a safety, and remove the wheel. Considering I used to control arm to jack up the truck, I took the weight off the suspension so the steering knuckle. This can be done without removing the control arm.

You may or may not have a cotter pin to remove. Using a 21mm socket and 1/2” ratchet, remove the nut. A johnson bar can be used for added leverage.

Due to the rubber boot, it can be a bit tough to push into place. Here I’m my OEMTOOLS dead blow hammer model number 25517. Once in place, make sure the lever on the bottom is in contact with the stud, then tighten the forcing bolt until the joint breaks free. Using snap ring pliers, remove the snap ring that holds the joint into place.

If you decide to remove the control, keep in mind that you’ll have to preload the rubber bushings on the frame mounting point. With my ball joint press, the fender liner does cut back on my workspace there isn’t enough room for the jackscrew. Unfortunately, my press doesn’t have the required adapters to position the jackscrew under the ball joint. Remove the 8mm bolts holding on the liner.

Push the liner in towards the engine, it’ll drop down, and then remove. The ball joint needs to be pushed up out of the top of the control arm to be removed and this can be seen by the flange on the top side. You’ll most likely need to remove the rubber boot on the ball joint so you can get the dies seats into place.

Pick the correct sized adapters, I’ll show you in a moment what the setups are required for the new ball joint. At the top, the sleeve needs to be large enough so the ball joint flange has a free space to move.

Apply oil to the jackscrew threads. Tighten the jackscrew and you’ll know right away when the ball joint is free. Remove the ball joint press. And finally, remove the ball joint. Clean up around the mounting surface and hole with a wire brush.

As for the sleeves and adapters, the ball joint now needs to be pushed into place, therefore it’ll need an installation sleeve or adapter which can push on the rear. On the opposite side, the ball joint needs clear space so it can freely move into position. This sleeve will only have contact on the control arm. I have one custom sleeve which I made from thick wall stainless steel tubing as I had clearance issues on a previous project and this can be used here too.

Make sure any dirt around the area is cleaned away, the grease and joint are exposed without the boot so you don’t want any contaminants getting in there. Put the ball joint into place. The press can’t open up wide enough, the ball joint will need to be started into the control arm. So I used the adapter on the top side, for now, to get it partly started. Then finish up with the sleeve and adapter.

Tighten the jackscrew, pushing the joint fully into place. The flange on the top of the ball joint assembly needs to be tight against the control arm. Using the correct sized sleeve, I pushed the boot into place.

Install the new snap ring. Angle the ball joint into the control arm, then jack up the steering knuckle to push everything into place. Pull down the control arm down, then start the castle nut.

Tighten the castle nut, the new nut requires a 22mm deep socket. The torque specification for the castle nut is 40ft lbs or 54nm. Align the slots of the castle nut with the hole, then insert the cotter pin and bend over the ends using pliers. Reinstall the wheel, the torque specifications for the 22mm lug nuts is 135 ft-lbs or 183 nm.

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