DIY: Dodge Ram 1500 Rear Brake Replacement

DIY: Dodge Ram 1500 Rear Brake Replacement

Video tutorial on how to replace the rear brakes, which includes the rotors and pads on a 3rd generation Dodge Ram. This is a 2006 4wd model equipped with a 5.7L V8, so there maybe some variations between the models. In order to produce this video, Bosch has been kind enough to provide me with the parts required for this replacement. To keep this video shorter, the replacement procedure for the parking brake assembly will be saved for another video.

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Tools/Supplies Needed:
-1/2” drive ratchet
-1/2” drive johnson bar
-3/8” drive ratchet
-10mm socket
-21mm socket
-silicone brake grease
-brake cleaner
-wire brush
-new pads
-new rotors
-new slide pin boots
-hammer
-standard screwdriver
-torque wrench
-round wire brush

Procedure:
Safely elevate the front of the truck and use a jack stand as a safety. Crack the cap of the master cylinder loose to relieve any pressure when compressing the pistons in the calipers. Using large interlocking pliers, compress the piston in the caliper. Using a 10mm socket and a 3/8” drive ratchet, remove the two bolts holding on the caliper.

If required, use a standard screwdriver to help pop off the caliper. Tie the caliper off with a bungee cord. Next is removing the inner and outer brake pads. I did notice these were stuck in place which can cause the brakes to drag. If you are keeping your rotors, don’t hit the rotors with a hammer or pry against them. Mine is getting replaced so I’m not worried about that.

Remove the anti-rattle clips and make note of their location. Using a 21mm, a johnson bar may be required for added leverage, remove the two bolts holding on the caliper carrier.

You may be required to back off the parking brake in order to remove the rotor and there is an access cover on the backing plate. If you find that your rotor is stuck to the hub, then hit it with a hammer between the lug studs. Anywhere outside of this area can risk damaging the rotor.

The hub and backing plate were cleaned up using a wire brush. Then the debris was washed away using brake cleaner.

Compare the older and new rotors to ensure they are the same. Install the rotor, a lug nut can be used to hold it in place for easier installation of the pads and caliper. You may be required to adjust the parking brake pads, there should be a mild drag when turning the rotor. I’ll cover this in my parking brake replacement video. Clean up the caliper carrier using a wire brush, make sure those mounting points for the pads are clean.

Reinstall the caliper carrier. The bolts were cleaned up using a wire brush, then I applied medium grade thread locker. The torque specifications for the carrier bolts are 100 ft-lbs or 135 nm. If any dirt or grease gets on the rotor, it’ll need to be cleaned as it can cause braking surface issues.

Compared the old and new inner and outer pads to ensure they are the same. Both the inner and outer pads are the same. Install the anti-rattle clips, they only fit in one orientation.

Then install the inner and outer pads. As mentioned earlier, these must be able to move freely, otherwise, your brakes will drag.

Make sure the slide pins are moving freely, I did find a hole in one of the boots, so these were replaced. The pins here are different from the front, the boots on the inside and outside are one piece, so they also support the pins too. Only use a silicone grease for these, any other form of grease may deteriorate or cause binding issues within that rubber. The pins can be pushed out with a screwdriver, then using a screwdriver again, push out the boots.

Make sure those holes are clean, free of any debris. Use a round wire brush to clean the holes if necessary.

First, install the rubber boots. Apply silicone grease to the inside. Then install the pins. Make sure those boots are clipped into the recessed areas on the pins. The pins should be pushed to the outside to make the installation easier.

Install the caliper. The bolts were also cleaned up using a wire brush and had medium grade thread locker applied. Tighten the caliper slide pin bolts. The torque specifications for these bolts is 22 ft-lbs or 30 nm.

Reinstall the wheel, the torque specifications for the 22mm lug nuts is 135 ft-lbs or 183 nm. Move onto the opposite side, using the same procedure.

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No part of this video or any of its contents may be reproduced, copied, modified or adapted, without the prior written consent of the author.

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Comments

John Ferguson says:

Where did you get that puller

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