How to Replace Fuel Pump 07-14 Chevy Suburban

How to Replace Fuel Pump 07-14 Chevy Suburban

In the video, 1A Auto shows how to replace the fuel pump. The video is applicable to the 07, 08, 09, 10, 11, 12, 13, 14 Chevy Suburban

🔧 List of tools used:
• Flat Blade Screwdriver
• Pry Bar
• 10mm Socket
• 15mm Socket
• 8mm Socket
• Ratchet
• Socket Extensions
• Torque Wrench
• Gloves
• Rust Penetrant
• Drain Pan
• Floor Jack
• Jack Stands
• Pick

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While 1A Auto strives to make the information provided in this video as accurate as possible, it makes no claims, promises, or guarantees about the accuracy, completeness or applicability of the content. No information contained in this video shall create any expressed or implied warranty or guarantee of any particular result. All do-it-yourself projects entail some risk. It is the sole responsibility of the viewer to assume this risk. 1A Auto is not responsible or liable for any loss damage (including, but not limited to, actual, consequential, or punitive), liability, claim, or any other injury or cause related to or resulting from any information posted in this video.



1A Auto: Repair Tips & Secrets Only Mechanics Know says:

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63 Impala rag Dude says:

Thanks for the video series on the silverado. I just bought one and have been following along for the problems I'm having with it. Very informative. Thanks again.

MJ DGI says:

That's too much work I just cut a hole in the floor and did it from the top

Jarod Morris says:

I love how on the first connector….just squeeze here and twist it back and forth a little bit. Yeah, then you cut to a different time and the connector is all black like you hit with PB Blaster or something and don't mention that at all.

Alex Drouillard says:

He’s absolutely wrong about only using hand tools. An impact wrench is much less likely to strip a rusted fastener than hand tools.

Cam Mims says:

My 07 Yukon Denali XL Sometimes Dies at a StopLight RPMs be going back and forth between 1k rpm and just below the Line by the 1 rpm and eventually car just dies. Engine starts Shaking and yeah….I would Wait for like 2 min before I start her back up. My Volts be reading 12, 13. At first I thought my Music (Subs) was Causing these Problems, But I Took my Music out and its still acting up… Denali Starts right back up no problem, But this is getting Annoying ! Hope this is what I need to replace. She has 310,000! Miles!

Mark Brittell says:

Is the fuel filter integrated into the pump?

Steve LaWarre says:

do you have a link to that full tank lift adaptor?

Zac's DIY Reptiles says:

Some have a blue clip instead of red that squeeze and pops off.

MnemoHistory says:

Do you have to purge anything after? Do you have to reset any fuel pump codes to make the new pump work after changing?

Stephan Gardner says:

Cool spider around 745

Maknificent12 says:

Is fuel filter on the same assembly as the fuel pump in this model vehicle?

Alexander Smythe says:

I found it easier to unfasten the straps and partially lower the tank before attempting to unplug the pump lines and harness and vent hose

loco louie says:

What would cause the Fuel pump not to pump up to the injectors?

Jesus Favela says:

Is this the same for 07 Escalade?

Kenneth Albert says:

TIP!  If you are a schmuck (like me) and  need to drop your gas tank while lying on your back underneath your vehicle.
I used 3 ratchet straps, 2 across the tank (in the factory, steel band locations and 1 pulled around the back of the tank.  That third strap allows you to keep the tank from sliding rearward as you lower it.  I used a jack to do the lowering and the straps as a limiter, to lift it back up, the straps did most of the work. (the straps also make it easier because you can move the jack out of your way if necessary.  As you will see it is necessary to lower the tank to access the connections but you can't lower the tank until you disconnect them… Yeah, exactly!
Be very careful and lower it slowly! The fuel pump output has almost zero slack and the rollover (?) valve (large conn. on top at the back end of tank) passes over a cross member and therefore can easily be damaged (disconnect it before lowering more than an inch or so) . I used the bottom of a plastic water bottle and the factory hose clamp to keep fuel from pouring out of the filler tube after removing the hose.
The 3rd strap is the key, without it the tank will continually slide rearward and get hung up on the rear end and will try to slide off the jack.  It's tedious since you have to, many times, release the straps and re-adjust but is better than breaking the connectors or dropping the tank. Good Luck!

David Selko says:

Thanks for this video. I got mine done on the ground at home with 4 jack stands and 2 floor jacks to control the tank on the way down. I did it by myself, but would have been way easier with a helper working the jacks and helping me support things. Mine was super rusted and the lock ring wouldn't come off. I had to soak it with rust penetrate and had to buy the otc tool to get it off. My fuel pump still worked but was leaking on the top due to the extreme rust! It was so rusty the fuel supply hose wouldn't come off the fuel pump and had to be replaced. Fun stuff, but done. Thanks again for the video, it did help!

CoZmo says:

Anyone notice the spider crawling out at 7:43

Junniel Paguyo says:

I have 2003 Chevy Suburban 1500 my fuel guage sometimes working sometimes it will go to empty.

mobidd says:

Looks intimidating to be done at home. Good video.

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