Here is a condensed version on how to change the brake pads on a GM drummed braked car. This is on a 1994 Chevy Caprice Station Wagon with 11″ drums. I narra…
Drum Brake Pad Replacement DIY 1994 Chevy Caprice Wagon
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nice video, I like the chipmunk action
i have a 92 and 95 roadmaster wagon. a good tip when replacing brake shoes. put the adjuster asembly together with the shoes off the car. then take the whole adjuster spring and shoe assembly and put it on the car at once.
The leaking oil could also be a bad wheel cylinder
i have the original rear drums on my 1985 Trans Am. [Restored] and they work fine. slammed on the brake pedal and the rear wheels locked up instantly.
You must live in a rust free area. Disc brakes, especially rear ones, rust and seize…easily. That’s part of the problem as the mechanism is all exposed. Drum brakes on the other hand are enclosed…as proven by your toyota van…keep working until they are done. They tend not to rust, although backing plates that hold everything tend to, it is the exposed part. As for your van, that’s an axle seal, think of it as a wheel bearing. Easy to do if you know what you’re doing.
Yeah…but as said in the comments, disc brakes in the back are faster to change but are more prone to not working/seizing.
They do have decreased performance but their design makes them pretty bullet proof, especially for the back end of cars.
Well, you have to get over that wear lip. You can retract the drum pads by adjusting the park brake wheel holding the pads apart…should be an access hole on the backing plate and with a screwdriver and a hammer, that should draw them in and make the drum easier to remove.
my drum doesn’t come off. I mean it is RUSTED! Is there any suggestions on how to take it out? I tried to hummer one out on a similar car, but it wouldn’t move. Is there a solution I can apply or do I have to try ripping it out and buying a new one? Thank YOU!
on my 88 Gm ..when i removed the drum…The Lower spring was hooked on the Shoe hole And the other end was hooked to the adjuster plater piece thing . The thing that hangs there & has a cable hooked to it ..Thats where the other end of my spring was hoooked ? weird? Looks like you hooked yours to the shoes on both ends. this has me a bit confused. Is it wrong to have it hooked at the shoe & the other end going to the little metal adjuster clip that sits just next to the adjuster cam thing?
yup just learned how to do this in my automotive technology class in highschool today so much fun
Yes…not just oil, but an anti-seize or anti-rusting agent, especially in the Northeast.
remember to lube the adjuster! uncsrew it and put some lube on the threads
i watched this vid becasue i have to disasemble and reasemble disk and drum brakes for auto shop and the way my dad said it confused the fuck out of me and this clearded it up
thanks.
and i made me one of those little spring pullers u have
this is a good video keep up the work
They are complicated, but their design keeps dirt out…they certainly have their place in the automotive world.
wow, drum brakes are complicated
They can be…here in Maine, rear disks tend to be problematic due to corrosion issues. Because drums are enclosed, tend to last longer. Work wise they are about the same. Rear brakes don’t do a lot of work anyways, so under heavy use disks would do better, but normal operation would be moot.
Nice vid… My 94 caprice 9c1 has 4 wheel disc brakes. From my understanding, they’re easier to work with?
Good tutorial, never would of thought the parking brake adjusted anything. Thanks for the vid!
k thanks cause i gotta do a all around brake replacement on an 89 dodge colt (mfd in japan though) disc in front drum in the back and i was wondering.
Universal for general motors cars, pretty close otherwise.
is all this pretty much universal for car to car with drum brakes?
if you place your finger on the pin then you can keep it in place and it makes your life a whole lo easier
haha @ 2:30 good idea
make sure you tighten them lugs and test it a bunch of times b4 u get on the interstate
Thank you. Good info.
Hey thanks man. It looks a lot easier than i thought. I was going to take it in, but i think i can manage this one by myself.
I did a set on a Dodge neon. The Brake material came unglued from its metal backing. Locked the wheel up in place. The adjuster screw was PITA to get it to release. I installed new shoes and springs on both wheels. Did all of this in the middle of winter outside while it was 10 degrees outside while sitting in the snow.. I made $40 that day.
Its true about the states that uses salt on the roads. It does seize the rear disk calipers. Done a few of those myself.
And also only do one at a time…that way you always have the “assembled” unit as a reference. Lithium grease or most any anti-seize products just to keep things from freezing up…and use your parking brake, it keeps the system healthy.
If you have not done this before , either make a drawing of the brake and spring set up before you start disassembling or if you have a digital camera…take several photos …could be an aggravation saver….I spray everything down with brake cleaner to remove the dirt and dust, i also use a good quality lithium grease on the star wheel and other metal to metal connections…everything looks cleaner and works better…
Yeah…just watch me take them out. Youtube limits uploads to 10 minutes, had to pinch it to get it to fit in time.
hey does last 3 minutes you forwarded sucked and i really wanted to see how you put all the springs inn
Chipmonk mode is hillarious
It’s actually a dent puller. It’s hardened steel wire with a basic T-handle.