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Full transcript: https://www.etrailer.com/tv-install-trailer-hitch-2015-buick-lacrosse-c12115.aspx
Today on our 2015 Buick LaCrosse, we’ll be reviewing and installing the Curt class 2 trailer hitch receiver, part number C12115. This is what you’re hitch will look like once it’s installed. It’s going to be tucked up underneath the backside of the bumper, providing a nice sleek look, low profile from the back end of the vehicle. It’s going to be black powder coated, for durability against the elements, and to prevent any kind of rust and corrosion. Up top you’re going to have that inch and 1/4 by inch and 1/4 receiver tube, with a 1/2 inch pin hole going straight through. Chain tie downs on either side, you can see that you’re going to have about enough room to get about two fingers through on each side. This hitch is capable of carrying 350 pounds of tongue weight, and 3,500 pounds of towing capacity. Remember that that towing capacity is your trailer, and everything in it combined.

Now we’ll go ahead and give you a few measurements to assist you in selecting from hitch accessories. From the center of the pin hole to the outermost part of the bumper is going to be a distance of about 4 inches. From the top of the receiver tube to the ground is going to be about 10 and 1/4 inches. This will assist you in selecting from multiple hitch accessories, anything from bike racks, to ball mounts, to cargo carriers. Now lets go ahead with our install. First thing we’re going to need to do once we have our Buick in the air is go ahead and remove the fasteners that secure this bottom fascia panel.

There’s going to be five 7 millimeter screws, and one 10 millimeter nut, located here. Now we’ll go ahead and switch over to our 10 millimeter socket to remove this one, here. Once you have those fasteners out of the way, go ahead and pull down the rear fascia panel. You can see that you’re going to have another one located on the inside. We’ll go ahead and set our fascia off to the side, since we will not be reinstalling it. Now we will go ahead and remove the inner bolt securing our exhaust hanger, here.

We’ll go ahead and remove this and set it off to the side, but this will not be reinstalled either. It’ll be replaced by the provided hardware. Now there’s going to be three attachment points. One located where we just removed the bolt, here in the exhaust hanger on the driver side, and the same identical spot on the passenger side, located here. There’s also going to be one following that, which is going to be on the vehicle crossmember, located here.

Now we’ll go ahead and spray some spray lubricant on our threads that we just removed the bolts from. Once we added spray, we’re going to use our tube brush, part number 814092. Now we’ll go ahead and raise our receiver tube with the two attachment points for the exhaust hangers on either side, up into place. Once you have it in place, we’ll go ahead and thread in the first of the two 8 millimeter bolts with a conical tooth washer on the other side facing the hitch. Thread it all the way through. Go ahead and secure them down. I’ll go ahead and replace our nuts on the other side. The next attachment point is going to be here on the driver’s side, rear suspension crossmember. There’s going to be a hole directly in the center. Now note, that there are different applications for this and different bracket styles. Some brackets have two holes so the rearward hole you’re going to need to enlarge to meet up for that 1/2 inch diameter bolt. There’s also going to be two different plates. You’re going to have one that’s going to be angled like so, but you can see how that one won’t work with the exhaust. So we’re going to use the other plate, which is going to look like this one. Having the “L” facing towards the inward part of the vehicle, your bolt with the lock washer, place it through. Take your spacer over the top, like so, to meet up with the angle there. Then we’ll take our handle nut, place it up on the backside and thread in our bolt. Once you get it started, go ahead and adjust the wedge to where it meets up properly. You’re going to want the fatter part of the wedge facing downwards. If you need to you can get a flat head screwdriver to help you hold that spacer in place while you tighten up the bolt. Now we’ll go ahead and make a score on the handle nut, and break off the excess. With a pair of cutters, bend and break it off. Now we’ll go ahead and raise our next plate into position. The four holes located here, will meet up with the four holes underneath. On the back, the holes will meet up like so. Go ahead and place our lock washer and bolt underneath, and we’ll go ahead and thread on our flange nut over the top. Once we have the flange nut in posi